first step of new build

[Enemy]

So the Bazaz is now recommending 28% fuel to achieve the user set target AFR in that RPM/Load cell. That's what I gather anywho..

I got to get over there and see it all back together! Looks awesome DS!

[fabr]

Again,why so much.It's a stock busa with a different pipe.

[Carlriddle]

I think he/auto tune has been taking fuel, so my guess is that its just puttin the fuel back + a little.  DS just reload the stock busa map and let it go from there.  One in Baz may just be to far gone.

And between free camp nights and gate entree I'm slowly getting my ticket $$ back.

[dsrace]

well instead of applying the suggested lowered fuel rates I zero'd it out and restarted the auto tune when I free revv'd it in N. now I believe the exhaust was adding too much back pressure because of the two 90* elbow's. it now wants to add fuel rather than reduce it and at a max of 28% around 8k but smaller amouts up to that point. it has acted like the choke left half on to the last changes and adjustments then it was like the choke was 1/3 on so now I hope this pipe turns it off and I have an  02 sensor after the merge that the bazzaz uses and I have the afr set at 13.

[fabr]

Personally,I think the auto tune is fubarred.

[Carlriddle]

It takes it reading from wide and O2. So it has to be leak free. At header and any welds. I'm sure there's a test for sensor itself too. But I'd say box itself is good since Jon used it wo problem.

[fabr]

 I agree.

[dsrace]

well the old exh was longer than stock on the bike and I went with 2.25 od origanly because that's what I could find for the aftermarket systems that merge all 4 into 1 rather than the factory duals. I have disconnected all of the bazzaz systems and no change.  I have never until now sync'd the bazzaz fI controller to with the bazzaz. I did check before I did so and it was only reading 88 or 89 % throttle with there pre set values so I caliberated that and it now see's 100%. didn't know the function existed until I heard carl talk about it so thanks carl!!  I got the shocks re-valved on the front and oil levels adjusted on front and rear so I hope to make a run around the pasture to see what the auto tune comes up with. I will reset to factory map before I do it and start over. the exh I just built a whole lot straighter and from and eye ball measurement about 4 to 6" longer than the aftermarket systems length. didn't have a tape to really measure and the owner of the bike wasn't around nor did I know him lol  which is why I decided on 2.5" od this time and it's a guessing game for myself. I do have almost 50% of the parts to add a turbo and probably will next winter but for now I would like to just get this figured out just because lol     the first time I set the tps I used the instrument cluster as the manual says.......never never do this as it is not accurate according to 2 multi meters , why I don't know but that made a diff after the first trip to LS getting that set right.  also the manual does cover how to sync the tb's but it does not tell you in that section that once you have done that to check to see if the cold idle circuit lever runs the idle up to 3k rpm. that is covered in the cold idle circuit section and doesn't say anything about syncing the tb's but when you sync them if you take them all down to match the lowest you wind up raising the idle and now the cold idle circuit doesn't hit but 1800 rpm. don't know if that has any bearing on much other than itself but I use it on cold start ups and it is nice if it actually works lol   the manual also says to sync them at 1150 rpm.......if I do that then at 3k they are off a bit so I have started setting them at 2k rpm and they hold to 3k and are off just a little at idle but they levels at idle too much to get a smooth reading at 1500 rpm that smooth's out. it has always just acted like it wasn't getting enough air in and I know I can't compare to other models and makes engines but even fast noticed and commented that at 5k rpm mine labor's a lot harder than carl's zx12.    the only test I have never performed on the engine was a leak down test on the cyl's everything else shows it on top end. I have read several posts about guys swapping instrument clusters because of something to do with speed limiters and something else I will have to re-read those but when I boost it the factory cluster will be gone anyway. I have read as much as I can trying to figure all this out and if it is the exh or was I will be happy lol

[fabr]

Personally,I think you will find that if the tps is off even a little bit,nothing you do will help. TPS must be right before anything else.No exceptions. You also want to get it running right before you even think about adding the t'bo.Personally I don't see how the maps are off 20+ percent no matter what you did with the exhaust.IMO,you have an air leak in the exhaust somewhere.

[fabr]

Also ,IMO,you are doing like I was early on. You're looking at too many things that COULD be an issue but not likely so. I'm betting that the engine would run just fine without the auto tuner. Admittedly the auto tune SHOULD make it run better but only after it runs right to atart with.Just my .02..

[dsrace]

correct on tp, that is why I set it with the multi meter last time, but didn't know about syncing it with the bazzaz. they pre set a value for it so it is important to sync it.    I did disconnect the bazzaz last time to see if that was it and it wasn't.  +1 on getting it to run right before t'bo that is why I have been doing all that I have, and each step has made a diff. like I said earlier ( I know it's not carb'd ) but it's been like a carb with the choke half on, then after the tb's and inj's and coil's and setting tps with multi meter, like it was 3/4 off.

well I just took it for a run through the field and what a diff! I won't know for sure until I get it out on the sand but I can now ( on flat ground) take off by feathering the clutch with almost not throttle where I couldn't do that before it would stall unless I rev'd to 3k to take off. I did clean the o2 sensor while I had it off with some map sensor cleaner.  the throttle response is back in N or while driving, so another plus. I made 4 pass's in first and second. hit rev limiter at 11200 rpm in 1st but never took it over 9k or soo in 2nd, cause apperantly this rail out, of all I have had, spooks the cattle over here and sends then running! the first time they went through the fence behind the barn 1/2 mile away!! the neighbors cattle are up by his house right now so I have to keep it toned down. I will pull the data off the auto tuner after bit cause i'm helping do brakes right now or I should say supervising lol.  I let it hit operating temp before I made the runs, where before was cold fire on a cold night free revving in N.   everything I have replaced was because it didn't wring out to spec, not because I guessed it could be. now the two coils that were bad were barely under spec but I put 4 new ones in to be safe.
kept the two good old ones for spares. I did all before the last trip, besides the exh. also shaved 1.7 lbs ( per the advertisement) off clutch with billet back tq limiter, housing etc etc standard performance parts. before the last three trips. I will have to buy there steel one if I t'bo it since the aluminum one isn't rated for boost.

[dsrace]

when I disconnected the bazzaz enemy flashed the pcm back to factory specs also so both of them together made not diff.   so far the results have been promising and I can see how longer than stock and throw in two 90* bends where stock didn't have but like 1 35*? would add back pressure. time will tell and the first trip enemy tried changing the switching point ( from iap to tps) down to 3k rpm from I think 4500 rpm. you can tell when it switch's since 3k rpm is where I am driving through the camp ground. you cannot tell on the sand cause I blow past soo fast .  I have checked all the sensors on the motor and that is when I found the coils. I also tried the factory air box just to see and it was quieter lol but no diff. when I put the air box back on I accidentally hooked the vac line to the diaphragm in the factory air box up to the iap with the bivalve in line and that makes them run like $hit and absolute $hit if you can get it to idle lol.

[dsrace]

pic

[deano]

you will have hide from carl so he can not roost the pretty thing

[dsrace]

that's funny cause if you watch the video....apparently  I started that chain reaction