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The bender Dougs using and the one Grims got there in his pic both have the following block so dry bending is no sweat. (dry tube). I imagine the pivots are all lubed as are rollers for the moving backing block?? When I was at you place Bug I did not see your bender so I do not not know how it does its thing. I thought at one time I saw that Fabr used a PT-105 himself? If I read what he says correctly then hes bending 4130 with it with no lube on the backing block? I find that interesting if its doing that with no damage to the backing block or tube at all? No tube distortion? Being 4130 is stronger than mild steel DOM I am using that might account for some of it? I followed the manufactuers recommendations and cleaned my backing block up a tad with a tiny flap wheel (no sharp ledges for the tube to catch on) I have not polished it's faces yet but am considering it. I also clean my tube VERY well and nearly polish it where it will be dragging on the backing block. I lube just that area going into the backing block and the blocks faces themselves. (as well as all the pivot pins of the bender of course)As for the main die I clean the tube area with brake clean to remove the WD-40 I store it in. Once the bend is done I re-WD-40 the die and it goes back inside a plastic container to keep dust/crud off it.I will still take care of the big die like this and only bend clean tube but to get away from the lube mess on the tube is my primary goal here. Save a little time and trouble and hoping for better setup to boot.
I lubeAnd have many rags around the bender...It is a fooking mess...Old timer in me I guess, But I'm still of the old logger saying that plugs are cheaper than pistons...Mixing saw gas alittle rich...