first step of new build

[dsrace]

read a few posts about how easy it is for the cam chain to slip a tooth on the crank cam gear during installation.

[fabr]

well i figured it would just be easiest to pull my motor since i have to pull the oil pan to install a return line for the turbo. i decided to wait last night to make sure the turbo manifold doesn't warp beyond use while being welded so i then decided to check all the timing marks on the cam and timing chain again one last time since i will have to pull the head anyway to have stronger valve springs installed for the turbo as well. now i check these timing marks 2 years ago because my motor has never felt like it has ever had full tq or hp. it is hard to sight the crank marks through that little hole on the side while in my chassis but the cam marks are easy. if i line of the crank mark with a mirror and then check the cam gears as the manual says the cam marks are off a touch but don't look to be off that much when using the head body as a reference mark as the suzuki manual says. now i went past a bit on the crank so i spun it through one more time and decided to line up the camp marks first this time........when done this way the crank mark is roughly 1 spline off!!!!  i read in a post on psyco bike forums one guy telling everyone that one could advance or retard timing on a busa by setting the crank cam gear off by 1 spline, not sure why anyone would do this on a stock n/a app but i know how people can mis read things. i will tear the rest of the side down till i can see the timing marks on that crank and crank cam gear to be sure but i just can't see this timing chain stretching that far but who really knows lol while i have it that far apart i am going to install a new chain but that does explain imo why this motor has always felt like it has had a boat anchor dragging behind it or as i have said , feels like the timing just never comes in at rpm!

Two things. First the oil return to sump from turbo needs to enter the engine above the sump oil level .   Second,IMO,no need for heavier valve springs. Stockers work just fine.

[dsrace]

yes i planned on drilling the return line at the top of the oil pan. i found a set of instructions on a good location. if these are stock valve springs they have quite a few miles on them and are only rated at 45 lbs factory. they actually recommend 70 lbs springs for turbo'd. i only planned on getting the 60 lb springs so as not to push the limits of the stock timing chain. not sure it would be an issue to be honest but after having that cheap quality exhaust gasket burn out on that one trip i want to inspect the valves to be safe.

[fabr]

Who is this "they"?

[dsrace]

forums and parts houses would be they.

[dsrace]

well i bought a eps out of a saturn vue for my steering. talked to a few guys running these and they are very happy with them and i know fabbr and fast are happy with there electric power steering as well. i have been wondering how many amps this unit draws at full power and i found this and thought it may be of use to others wanting to do something as well. there are smaller units available from several vendors.

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89488

the post reads.....


Here is a description from the service manual.

Power Steering System Description and Operation
The electric power steering (EPS) system reduces the amount of effort needed to steer the vehicle. The system uses the body control module (BCM), power steering control module (PSCM), torque sensor, discrete battery voltage supply circuit, EPS motor, serial data bus, and the instrument panel cluster (IPC) message center to perform the system functions. The PSCM, torque sensor, nor the EPS motor are serviced separately from each other or from the steering column. Ant EPS components diagnosed to be malfunctioning requires replacement of the steering column assembly, also known as the EPS assembly.


Torque Sensor
The PSCM uses a torque sensor as it's main input for determining the amount of steering assists. The steering column has an input shaft, from the steering wheel to the torque sensor, and an output shaft, from the torque sensor to the steering shaft coupler. The input and output shafts are separated by a torsion bar, where the torque sensor is located. The sensor consists of a compensation coil, detecting coil, and 3 detecting rings. These detecting rings have toothed edges that face each other. Detecting ring 1 is fixed to the output shaft, detecting rings 2 and 3 are fixed to the input shaft. The detecting coil is positioned around the toothed edges of detecting rings 1 and 2. As torque is applied to the steering column shaft the alignment of the teeth between detecting rings 1 and 2 changes, which causes the detecting coil signal voltage to change. The PSCM recognizes this change in signal voltage as steering column shaft torque. The compensation coil is used to compensate for changes in electrical circuit impedance due to circuit temperature changes from electrical current and voltage levels as well as ambient temperatures for accurate torque detection.


EPS Motor
The EPS motor is a 12 volt brushed DC reversible motor with a 65 amp rating. The motor assists steering through a worm shaft and reduction gear located in the steering column housing.


Power Steering Control Module (PSCM)
The PSCM uses a combination of torque sensor inputs, vehicle speed, calculated system temperature and the steering calibration to determine the amount of steering assist. When the steering wheel is turned, the PSCM uses signal voltage from the torque sensor to detect the amount of torque being applied to the steering column shaft and the amount of current to command to the EPS motor. The PSCM receives serial data from the engine control module (ECM) to determine vehicle speed. At low speeds more assist is provided for easy turning during parking maneuvers. At high speeds, less assist is provided for improved road feel and directional stability. The PSCM nor the EPS motor are designed to handle 65 amps continuously. The PSCM will go into overload protection mode to avoid system thermal damage. In this mode the PSCM will limit the amount of current commanded to the EPS motor which reduces steering assist levels. The PSCM also chooses which steering calibration to use when the ignition is turned ON, based on the VIN. The PSCM contains all 8 of the steering calibrations which are different in relation to the vehicles RPO's. The PSCM has the ability to detect malfunctions within the EPS system. Any malfunction detected will cause the IPC message center to display the PWR STR (or Power Steering) warning message.

The wiring according to the schematic is two different power sources in and a ground. Along with with two communication wires to the rest of the control modules in the car.

[dsrace]

so at 65 amp which is a overload condition i guess but a 12 v motor at 65 amps is what 780 watts? then the 220 watt motor they sell for utv's would be about 18 amps i guess. read a few posts about a eps out of a toyota but don't see anything about a stand alone controller.  the controller kit that comes with it says to use a 50 amp fuse and i know from a guy that i knot that is running this set up that a 30 amp fuse will work until you max it out by hitting a deep rutt at a high rate of speed in a flat out turn lol then it blew his 30 amp fuse. my aftermarket rec reg is only rated at 45 amps.

[dsrace]

well i have got the head tore off the motor but am still awaiting parts!!  can't even bolt the turbo manifold up and get the exhaust made with out the head back on lol.  i am going to run a mitsibishi turbo hks  td06-14c by measurement , modified with a smaller compressor housing and diff wheel. i did not modify the compressor housing or wheel the previous owner did for use on a gsxr 1000, he said it worked good but.......
i tore the turbo down and measured it and sent the info off to a shop to see what they could tell me and this was there response, really nice guys and helpful too.

" Hello Brian,

Thank you for your interest. We do have a rebuild kit for your turbo. We have found the following specs, it is an HKS unit there is conflicting info on the compressor wheel size some show it as a 14C and other show it as a 17C (this makes more sense, because that is the stock sized wheel in the Typhoon turbo) and a TD06 turbine wheel (again stock Typhoon). The kit you need is our complete TD05/6 Flat back kit for $99 + shipping. Here is a link to these kits on our website:

http://gpopshop.com/products-page/all-kits/mitsubishi-td05td05htd06-complete-flatback-kit/

You can order these directly off of the website or by calling in at 479-751-7966. Let us know if you have any other questions or if you need anything else. Thank you, "



there is some debate that this is the early ( small)  typhoon truck turbo with internal wastegate as in first few months of production then it went to the 17c but i really don't know. it's tore down and out for thermal coating. this is the only compressor map i could find for the stock turbo. the best info i could find online rated the busa at 220 cfm n/a due to some restrictions in the stock intake box. in the camp ground putzing out to the gate i run 3k rpm to 3500 rpm and with the motor in limp mode with the damn timing advanced like it was due to previous owner timing chain botch or who ever did it for them i had to run 8k rpm and higher ( 11k rpm)  to just barely keep up and even then it was a challenge!! fabr and enemy have told me they run comfortably at or around 6k rpm and above on the sand at 6 to 8 lbs boost. i'm sure they can confirm or correct this.

[dsrace]

here is the compressor map for the stock 2.3 ford turbo engines that i was thinking would work good for a busa but after looking at it deeper the busa would be operating beyond it's efficiency or right of the compressor map. i do believe it would work good for a 600 or 750 and maybe a 1000 cc bike engines but not sure with out more info? the interesting info on the stock 2.3 head only flowed 150cfm but due to fluctuations in qc one head shop showed flow rates from 150 to 180 on stock heads. but from what i can read a few simple mods to the heads as in a mild port job and unshrouding the valves along with larger valves, stronger springs and retainers, better valve seats and a higher lift roller cam and they can reach 200 to 220 cfm depending. along with a cleaner better flowing intake tract of course and then quite a few seem to favor the first gen stock holset turbo's off the cummins or a garrett t3/t4 hybrid.

[fabr]

so at 65 amp which is a overload condition i guess but a 12 v motor at 65 amps is what 780 watts? then the 220 watt motor they sell for utv's would be about 18 amps i guess. read a few posts about a eps out of a toyota but don't see anything about a stand alone controller.  the controller kit that comes with it says to use a 50 amp fuse and i know from a guy that i knot that is running this set up that a 30 amp fuse will work until you max it out by hitting a deep rutt at a high rate of speed in a flat out turn lol then it blew his 30 amp fuse. my aftermarket rec reg is only rated at 45 amps.

ANd that is the reason I used the more expensive unit made for a SxS. Plenty of power assist and an amp draw that our stock busa/bike engine charging systems can handle.

[fabr]

well i have got the head tore off the motor but am still awaiting parts!!  can't even bolt the turbo manifold up and get the exhaust made with out the head back on lol.  i am going to run a mitsibishi turbo hks  td06-14c by measurement , modified with a smaller compressor housing and diff wheel. i did not modify the compressor housing or wheel the previous owner did for use on a gsxr 1000, he said it worked good but.......
i tore the turbo down and measured it and sent the info off to a shop to see what they could tell me and this was there response, really nice guys and helpful too.

" Hello Brian,

Thank you for your interest. We do have a rebuild kit for your turbo. We have found the following specs, it is an HKS unit there is conflicting info on the compressor wheel size some show it as a 14C and other show it as a 17C (this makes more sense, because that is the stock sized wheel in the Typhoon turbo) and a TD06 turbine wheel (again stock Typhoon). The kit you need is our complete TD05/6 Flat back kit for $99 + shipping. Here is a link to these kits on our website:

http://gpopshop.com/products-page/all-kits/mitsubishi-td05td05htd06-complete-flatback-kit/

You can order these directly off of the website or by calling in at 479-751-7966. Let us know if you have any other questions or if you need anything else. Thank you, "



there is some debate that this is the early ( small)  typhoon truck turbo with internal wastegate as in first few months of production then it went to the 17c but i really don't know. it's tore down and out for thermal coating. this is the only compressor map i could find for the stock turbo. the best info i could find online rated the busa at 220 cfm n/a due to some restrictions in the stock intake box. in the camp ground putzing out to the gate i run 3k rpm to 3500 rpm and with the motor in limp mode with the damn timing advanced like it was due to previous owner timing chain botch or who ever did it for them i had to run 8k rpm and higher ( 11k rpm)  to just barely keep up and even then it was a challenge!! fabr and enemy have told me they run comfortably at or around 6k rpm and above on the sand at 6 to 8 lbs boost. i'm sure they can confirm or correct this.

With an unmodified Garrett GT25r turbo I have full boost by 5K and will run around the dunes normally at no more than 8K rpm. No real need to run it higher rpms.I also never raised my rpm limits either.Again,no need. I live by the rule that if there is no need why destroy parts.

[fabr]

here is the compressor map for the stock 2.3 ford turbo engines that i was thinking would work good for a busa but after looking at it deeper the busa would be operating beyond it's efficiency or right of the compressor map. i do believe it would work good for a 600 or 750 and maybe a 1000 cc bike engines but not sure with out more info? the interesting info on the stock 2.3 head only flowed 150cfm but due to fluctuations in qc one head shop showed flow rates from 150 to 180 on stock heads. but from what i can read a few simple mods to the heads as in a mild port job and unshrouding the valves along with larger valves, stronger springs and retainers, better valve seats and a higher lift roller cam and they can reach 200 to 220 cfm depending. along with a cleaner better flowing intake tract of course and then quite a few seem to favor the first gen stock holset turbo's off the cummins or a garrett t3/t4 hybrid.

Many turbos MAY work well but I chose the GT25r due to that being a very popular choice of builders . I considered a GT35r but that would have raised my boosted rpm range around 1500K IIRC.I wanted it all in sooner and a much better spool time so I stayed with the 25.

[dsrace]

slow progress
had to delete the factory oil cooler i re used and went to a bigger one i could use regular lines on for clearance. the head checked out good, new valve springs in ( 65lb) and surfaced it. well i didn't i paid to have it done lol $120 not bad in my book. and a pic of the turbo hanging on.

[Carlriddle]

Damnit now you've ruined the surprise!!  Now get off outer and back to garage. Less than 4 weeks!   

[fabr]

That sit as low as the pic shows? If it does will the oil return line be almost horizontal? I did that on the first buggy,only about 3" drop in about a foot.  Had intermittent smoking issues and had to use an oil pump to return the oil to sump.