Check out this guys work. WOW

[ZTFab]

Boost is correct, I use an orbital sander. This was all finished with 80 grit, no scotch brite pads or anything else.

My name is Paul...but that's not what most people call me...if you get my drift.

Most of the time the designs are just in my head, like the dash. I designed the rear shock towers on paper first to get the correct geometry then I used CAD to help with the bracket design. I then cut everything out by hand on my band saw....no 10000sq/ft shop with somebody else's tools to use for me. Just my small shop with the equipment that I have worked and paid for.

[Boostinjdm]

no 10000sq/ft shop with somebody else's tools to use for me. Just my small shop with the equipment that I have worked and paid for.

As it should be...

[Reidy02]

Cool thanks Paul for answering all my questions, I was having another go at it today, getting better! Still need lotsa practice though. Speaking of a decent shed I'd be wraped if I had one, I've done both my builds out the front of my garage. It's really starting to get me down the weather and the rust, man it drives me nuts.... Makes me feel it's achievable though, to know that's how you do it! 

[fabr]

It's achievable with practice,steady hands and a good set of .

[Reidy02]

Man ya not wrong about the steady hand, and good eye helps..

[Reidy02]

Hey Paul can you post some more pics of some recent work please? I like checking your work out.. Also just looking at your work on that aluminum, did you use filler rod?

[ZTFab]

Hey Paul can you post some more pics of some recent work please? I like checking your work out.. Also just looking at your work on that aluminum, did you use filler rod?

Sure.

Yes, I used .045" 5356 filler rod. The dash that I posted is made from .050" 3003-H14.

Here is some more .050" 3003-H14 that I built some wing/light bars and LED light bar enclosures with.

[ZTFab]

Here is another dash that I made for the same car as the wing in the previous post....again, .050" 3003-H14 with .045" 5356 filler rod, formed, planished and blended by hand.

[Reidy02]

Wow your work blows me away! The reason I asked if you used filler was cause you can hardly tell where you've welded it. It looks so neat!! Well actually looking at it again you can't tell..But then again I don't know the best way to achieve results like that! As in not being able to see where you've welded it.

[ZTFab]

Here is some older work if you haven't seen it already.
This is a custom 9" rear differential housing that I built for a Desert race truck.

I hand cut all the bracketry on my bandsaw, TIG welded with 1/16 ER70S-2.

[ZTFab]

Wow your work blows me away! The reason I asked if you used filler was cause you can hardly tell where you've welded it. It looks so neat!! Well actually looking at it again you can't tell..

Thanks Reidy. It takes a lot of work to get it that way but it's worth it in the end.

[Reidy02]

Ya not wrong, I'll bet the guy was pleased with that!! Oh and you're welcome, it's really cool to see work of that caliber..

[ZTFab]

Just for shits and giggles, here are some sample coupons that I did with MIG. 3/16" cold rolled steel with .030" ER70S-6, C25 gas with my Lincoln Power MIG 200, continuous welding, No pulse or "triggering".

[Reidy02]

Hey Paul when you do TIG welding do you cup walk or do you just hold the torch there?

[matt(boily)]

Hey ZTfab. Good to see you on the forum. Got to say mate loving the work. your panel work is bloody excellent. Not to mention the notches and welds .

Like you say the biggest thing for a great weld is prep. That was one thing that was drummed into me as an apprentice. And you see the results. Its a pain in the arse but what you gonna do about it

One thing i've got to get is a TIG with HF. Atm all i got is a scratch start at home and it pisses me off so much cause it breaks the nice point you have to grind on the electrode.

Keep the pics coming mate.