DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => "AP" General Discusion => Topic started by: fabr on March 31, 2016, 12:46:07 PM
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Would we all be safer if we ran a fuel cell? The only answer is yes. Do most of us have one? No. Why? Too expensive for custom size/shape most of us need. SOOOO, what to do? Have a custom liner rotomolded in your weird ass shape/size tank. Got mine to the rotomold guys today,should be done next week sometime. Having 1/8" cross linked poly (PEX)done just like JAZ and others offer. Lining will cost me $200. Damn cheap for a HUGE increase in fire safety. I can get a cam inside it. When I get it back I'll post pics. IMO, we ALL should consider this very seriously.
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name? #? for this place?
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I'll post it tonight.
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http://www.charloma.com/cross-linked-polyethylene-rotational-molding.html (http://www.charloma.com/cross-linked-polyethylene-rotational-molding.html)
Contact person is Derrick Renfro. You will need to supply fixturing to secure tank to the rotomold table. I used the steel hold down straps that secure tank in car this time. Steel material is required for hold down. Tank can be from .125 or thicker aluminum (or steel I believe,need to verify).
IF anyone plans on having an already used tank lined you will have to remove any sign that it has had fuel in it. They will not consider doing a used tank.. Must be bone dry inside and free of contaminants.
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Fresh from rotomolders. Weird ass rectangular/trapazoidal tank. Shape fits like a glove where it's tucked into. The dark areas in the pics is where the freshly molded PEX is still "stuck" to the outer shell. As it fully shrinks over the next few days it will become a fully floating bladder inside the outer shell and become it's natural color . Exactly like the ones offered by Jaz,ATL ,etc.. Was shooting for .125 thickness and it came out as .160. Cool! Pics are a bit funky. I'll try to get a couple better ones with the different cam cam setting.
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looks good
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Cool!
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Diggin it!
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Cool!
Well,thank ya! I believe that is the first time you seem to be even marginally impressed by much of anything.. ;D ;D 8) Honestly, I wish you posted more and we knew a bit more about you as well. You posts seem to show you know more than you let on.
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Diggin it!
ya, me too. The safety factor is what I was after. I feel MUCH safer with this.
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The bladder weighs in at 9.5 pounds. Going to do a capacity test to see how many gallons I lost . Tank itself is 30 gallons. I am guessing around a gallon - 1 1/2 gallon.
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What's that old saying? Necessity is the mother of invention? WELLLLLLLL,I'm more thinking it should be necessity is the mother of fabrication. A little lathe and mill time ,an AN bulkhead fitting and a piece of 6061 bar stock. Fitting connects both pumps outlets together inside fuel cell. Fitting installs in the fill plate. Single line to carb.
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Do your pumps have one way valves? Or are you using some inline ones?
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Do your pumps have one way valves? Or are you using some inline ones?
Yes ,they have internal check valves . I can add in line ones if the internal give me any issue. I'm just "copying" the unit that Aeromotive is now offering. "Should" be fine with the internal check valves tho.
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will this tank have a fuel gauge? Or is it built into the pump assy somehow?
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Tube style sender.
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I was busy the last 2 days painting the trailer but should be able to post several pics of the completed fuel cell,filler plate/pump hanger,electric pass thru terminals I made to safely wire the pumps, tube style sending unit by Sunday. The fooking 30R10 ,in tank,submersion rated fuel hose is fricken $20 a fricken foot!!!! Damn glad I only need 2 feet to complete this thing.
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Here ya go.
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Coated all exposed steel parts with this stuff. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer.html Amazing shit. I didn't get it applied smooth as I would like .Brushed it on. Didn't know if spraying would work but I feel it would after doing this part. Seems to be the only one on the market that is fully e85 resistant. Pics of the 12V passthru terminals I made from 6/6nylon and stainless fasteners and nuts/washers.Nylon heat shrink on terminals. Nylon zip ties. SS worm clamps.Viton bladder to tank to filler plate gaskets . Nylon insulated wiring. In other words,every piece in this is e85 proof,or at least damn close.
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BEAUTIFUL!!!!!
Damn good info as well! Thank you!
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So the "squeezed" tube end on the AN bulkhead.. Fuel return?
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So the "squeezed" tube end on the AN bulkhead.. Fuel return?
U B correct! I figured the flattened end would help break up the returning stream of fuel to the sump area. I didn't show the sump/fuel "corral" that goes around the pickups to help keep fuel available for pick up.
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U B correct! I figured the flattened end would help break up the returning stream of fuel to the sump area. I didn't show the sump/fuel "corral" that goes around the pickups to help keep fuel available for pick up.
Had my tank off the truck welding the bung on (hey I didnt blow up ;D) and the return while its some silicon rubber stuff is shape the same way.
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Cool idea on the 12volt pass thru. I found the wires melted once in my truck fuel tank when the pump went out; kinda scary.
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Here ya go enemy. Found it for ya.
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The mount tabs on the bottom of your hanger... I recall you saying this was to mount a slosh/sump type wall to keep fuel in the pickup area.. Any pics of this configuration by chance? I loose fuel under accel after 1/4 tank, going to need to remedy this.
Also, feed and return... It looks like an AN8 feed and AN6 return. This is the size I run in the Ranger. I have read that this is plenty for my power goal, but some have speculated that the return should be the same as feed if you experience pressure creep (I am not with the 340lph pump but will be going to a 450lph Walbro, same you are running here)
Thoughts on this?
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No pics of the sump "corral". I have no pressure creep if running one pump but when I turn on both I see about 5psi higher. I wouldn't worry if running one pump. IF I see need to run both pumps at once, I'll make return a -8.
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FWIW , I would seriously consider the Holley Hydramat instead of the corral.
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Funny you mention that! I just ordered an 8"x3" for the 11mm lock flange that the Walbro 450 and most other pumps use. Still having sticker shock from the purchase but the prices have been coming down on the stuff..
I figure it would be a better solution to building a corral or sumping the factory tank.
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Ya,I'm holding out for the price to hit bottom.
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I'm thinking about the walbro MP-14 smart valves instead of hydramat. Ever hear of them?
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Pretty slick little filter pickup. Cheap on Amazon too, $30. Looks like tad over 5", just have to have enough hole to squeeze it in.
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They are usually ganged together . One in each corner or at least one at each end if tank is long and narrow. Too bad they aren't e85 compatible.
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They are usually ganged together . One in each corner or at least one at each end if tank is long and narrow. Too bad they aren't e85 compatible.
Hydromat is I assume?
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yes
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Well I got the new pump and Hydromat in the Ranger. I needed a new sending unit so found a new one without a pump and went to town on it, just slight cutting on the lower hanger to get a Walbro 450 to fit, tied it into the 3/8 bulkhead with Gates 30R10 submersible hose then a SwageLok fitting to my 1/2" fuel line. The Areomotive 340 is a dog compared to this pump.
The hydromat is doing its job, I ran the tank down till the fuel light came on and then did a pull, no more starving the pump! Used to loose fuel at a 1/4 tank. It will definitely suck every last drop from the tank. The size of this sheet fits the rear Ranger tank perfectly front to back. Well worth the price if a sheet this small will work in your situation.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi516.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu329%2Fbeerfarm1%2F1988%2520Ranger%25202_3Turbo%2FDSCN0101_zpskdnbjc6q.jpg&hash=0cc06cbc18d3d777c3cea119b7b367c2d40e6a6f) (http://s516.photobucket.com/user/beerfarm1/media/1988%20Ranger%202_3Turbo/DSCN0101_zpskdnbjc6q.jpg.html)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi516.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu329%2Fbeerfarm1%2F1988%2520Ranger%25202_3Turbo%2FDSCN0095_zpsslhgwdx5.jpg&hash=718bbcbc1a1e392970e26368e424410e3f9a6c11) (http://s516.photobucket.com/user/beerfarm1/media/1988%20Ranger%202_3Turbo/DSCN0095_zpsslhgwdx5.jpg.html)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi516.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu329%2Fbeerfarm1%2F1988%2520Ranger%25202_3Turbo%2FDSCN0096_zps28owjjda.jpg&hash=764cd174bfe2514d287f47aa99bc21f0a451a4d9) (http://s516.photobucket.com/user/beerfarm1/media/1988%20Ranger%202_3Turbo/DSCN0096_zps28owjjda.jpg.html)
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No doubt,hydramat is the top of the food chain . I think the stuff is fantastic! It will also cost me about $600 to get a size that would guarantee fuel contact on a steep dune ,up or down,with a low fuel situation..I'm going to try the walbro thingies. With my long,narrow longitudinally mounted tank ,it will only take 2 placed at the extreme ends of the tank to where I think I could only have maybe 1 1/2 gallon and not suck air on a steep dune face. Good to hear you are happy with the hydramat!