DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
General Discussion => Group Gatherings/Special Events => Topic started by: fastcorvairs on May 09, 2014, 08:41:46 AM
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Well finally got a day off to run down and play for a day and wouldn't you know it! Just was not my day. Loaded the buggy up on the day trailer Wednesday night just before the storms hit. Backed it under the carport and unhooked so I could put the truck up out of storms. Come out Thursday morning at four thirty backed up and hooked it all back up and away I went, every thing looking good. Little Wendy but the cloud's were clearing as I drove south the the sand. Got down to LS fired up the buggy to warm up while I was removing the tie down straps. Well this is where it all started going south. Buggy died. Well OK no biggy just restart and continue with what I was doing. Nope. no restart. Start the long process of why. check out all the grounds and start checking to see what the hell was going on. Well no fire to the fuel pump, or injectors. Jumped some wires and varooooooooom it fired. Will I hate it when that happens because you really don't know what was wrong. So out on the sand we go, Making lots of tracks and running good smooth sand because of all the wind, so over to Thunder Alley we head. Make a few passes at thunder alley and all of a sudden it's like i'm hitting the rev limiter at 5500 or so. Thing of it is I don't have a rev limiter. So pull over to check it out and the car just up's and die's. Same or crap no fire to the fuel pump or injectors. Pull my Motec off and put on Jerry's car and his car fires up and runs good. Well not to bore you all much longer we found that the hi dollar shrink fit terminal that I put on the ground for the Motec so this shit don't happen was bad. We all headed back to camp for lunch and to put a new terminal on my ground wire. No need for the terminal when I got back. Let the pictures speak volumes for themselves. This is what I seen while getting ready to put the new terminal on.
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WTF happened to the suspension????????????????
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WTF happened to the suspension????????????????
Well you tell me and we'll both know. I'm thinking that the shock has to much leverage on the assembly as a hole. I think the new limit strap saved the day to. The forward trailing link bracket was not properly welded. Lot's of thing could be playing out here. All of which I am the only one to blame.
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What was boost set on?? ;D
Damn!! Took me a min to see. You had me thrown off with the whole elc story. Sometimes little problems we fuss at are saving us from disaster. Luckily no one was harmed, not even an ice cream maker. See you in 2 weeks.
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The pic appears to show a bent shock shaft or lower eye. What's with that? Did you bottom it out hard at some point? The link mount can be easily made stronger without any added weight also.
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this.
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this.
And 3rd pic down.
Stupid copy paste pic not worky.
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yup,might be cam angle tho.........................
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What was boost set on?? ;D
Damn!! Took me a min to see. You had me thrown off with the whole elc story. Sometimes little problems we fuss at are saving us from disaster. Luckily no one was harmed, not even an ice cream maker. See you in 2 weeks.
Wrong!!!!!!!!!! did that on the way home from Glamis last January. That's a whole new story.
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The pic appears to show a bent shock shaft or lower eye. What's with that? Did you bottom it out hard at some point? The link mount can be easily made stronger without any added weight also.
I think it has been a recurring thing. To many bottoming s out. Plus the shock wanting to push the whole carrier assembly, or rotate it clock wise. I had to mount my lower shock mount hi like it is because it would have interfered with the trailing arms if not. To get it at a lower spot I would have had to increase the with to a point that I would have had to remover the wheels to get it in a trailer.
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Ok so I have been looking for a new shock shaft. Anyone know or have a link?
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Stouter mount will cure that.
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if those are fox shocks you can buy just a shaft with a eyelet on it. fast your right on the shock leverage idea pushing back on that carrier. I can't tell from the pic but looks like those forward link tabs are only welded on the side not top and bottom? if so then the plate prob started tearing where the weld ended? I only say this cause I had a similar instance a number of years ago with my v6 rail and I was using aluminum radius rods that did bend under the load of the shock pressure while dropping in off a dune lol there are pics and a video on here somewhere of it. I mounted my shock to the back side off center of the axle and it was creating a twisting motion on the carrier until the aluminum rods folded. I went to steel and moved the shock forward so it was pushing straight down on the carrier , as best as possible, and pretty much in the center to slightly forward. I mounted in the rear for clearance reasons and that didn't work lol that does suck and has survived a lot all this time. are those carriers made out of chromolly? if that is mild steel like mine then make those forward radius rod plates out of hot 50 next time and go 1/4" thick. just my opinion of course. this is what I learned from my heavy v6 rail and have moved it on over to my mini's as well I figure why not if it's a little over kill lol lol that does suck but better the way it happened then at glamis right before a landing!
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if those are fox shocks you can buy just a shaft with a eyelet on it. fast your right on the shock leverage idea pushing back on that carrier. I can't tell from the pic but looks like those forward link tabs are only welded on the side not top and bottom? if so then the plate prob started tearing where the weld ended? I only say this cause I had a similar instance a number of years ago with my v6 rail and I was using aluminum radius rods that did bend under the load of the shock pressure while dropping in off a dune lol there are pics and a video on here somewhere of it. I mounted my shock to the back side off center of the axle and it was creating a twisting motion on the carrier until the aluminum rods folded. I went to steel and moved the shock forward so it was pushing straight down on the carrier , as best as possible, and pretty much in the center to slightly forward. I mounted in the rear for clearance reasons and that didn't work lol that does suck and has survived a lot all this time. are those carriers made out of chromolly? if that is mild steel like mine then make those forward radius rod plates out of hot 50 next time and go 1/4" thick. just my opinion of course. this is what I learned from my heavy v6 rail and have moved it on over to my mini's as well I figure why not if it's a little over kill lol lol that does suck but better the way it happened then at glamis right before a landing!
Amen bro. that would have really sucked. Really don't have room for .250X2 so I'll cut the old one's off and build new one's from .1875 4130 and weld in some support some where. Will do my best to get er done for the end of the month. Don't want to give up my spot at LS I got rented. thumb down
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Box in the mount, 2 flat plates make a poor structure.
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ditto.
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Box in the mount, 2 flat plates make a poor structure.
+1 and we don't want ya to give up your spot either! lol
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I am not sure but the third pic looks like you are swinging three different arcs.
It looks like the two lower are parallel to each other and the one closest to the camera is contrary to them.
Is that what I am seeing?
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I am not sure but the third pic looks like you are swinging three different arcs.
It looks like the two lower are parallel to each other and the one closest to the camera is contrary to them.
Is that what I am seeing?
Welder
I think what your seeing is the whole carrier is rotated 45 degrees, so the lower two arms look one on top of the other.
Two of the three Travis rods two lower swing the same ark. While the upper shorter rod swings a little smaller ark. Rear tires pretty much travel straight up and down. No caster or camber over 20 inch's.
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fast did design and build it right , I have seen it in person and the placement of the the rods isn't the problem.
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Welder
I think what your seeing is the whole carrier is rotated 45 degrees, so the lower two arms look one on top of the other.
Two of the three Travis rods two lower swing the same ark. While the upper shorter rod swings a little smaller ark. Rear tires pretty much travel straight up and down. No caster or camber over 20 inch's.
Now it looks totally different.
I apologize for the PUTI.
How did the other side do ?
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Now it looks totally different.
I apologize for the PUTI.
How did the other side do ?
The other side is beginning to crack. You can run your finger inside the bracket and feel a crack or where the metal is starting to separate. Both sides will be completely rebuilt. Mite be a good thing because the car has had seven years on the axle bearings and carriers. Mite be time to replace them. That's not bad for a pair of 1982 chevy 4x4 s-10 front carriers from Auto Zone. Still tight no play in them at all.
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Seven years ain't bad.
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Well got the shock all torn down and low and behold I think I can save the shaft. I buggered it up some getting the end off thinking it was toast but my ten inch buffer took care of the scratches. the aluminum end was all jacked up but the threads and the shaft are still nice and straight. Got a little carried away on the buffing wheel with a tad to much pressure. Started smelling something burning, stepped outside thinking it was a grass fire leaving the buffer running. When I come back into the shop the center of the buffing wheel was glowing red and starting to throw off sparks. drowning grab the water hose. Wew only lost the pads on the buffer. Need to let up on the pressure some. ;D
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Got the carrier all tore down and the axle bearing out. Not bad by the way I mite even reuse the bearings. Absolutely no play and they do not spin. You have to turn them and there is no sound or roughness in them what so ever. Also decided to try and see If I could straighten the trailing link brackets some before I cut them off the carrier. Low and behold they came out really good. Going to fish plate and add some new gusting and call it good. I'll tig weld up the torn places and then put some fish plate over them. In the pictures you can see that the inside wall actually tore the weld off the carrier. There was no penetration for the first half inch or so. Need to get the drivers side off and get them to the blasting shop to remove the powder. Being the powder coaters throwed my granny apple green powder out because it was out dated i'll have to go with the hammer tone silver and black like my front and rear suspension.
Got to looking at my springs and the top tender was bottoming out some. That could have been some of my troubles. Just the passenger side.
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More pictures after heat and hammer found a torn boot to.
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Box in the mount, 2 flat plates make a poor structure.
It is simi boxed just did not go far enough with the top plat on the bracket. It'll get some new bracing when I am done this time. alot of this damage could have been done for a long time. Just got to the point that it couldn't hold on any longer.
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It is simi boxed just did not go far enough with the top plat on the bracket. It'll get some new bracing when I am done this time. alot of this damage could have been done for a long time. Just got to the point that it couldn't hold on any longer.
It's a U shape at best. From the material ripping above the weld on the outer plate it's pretty obvious it needs more support back there. The front endges buckling in did not help this either, had they stayed strait it's doubtful you would have had an issue. When you box in the rear section, make it wider than the mount to help spread the load out. Then plate in the front side to keep the plates from buckling agian.
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Fill it in here.
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Fill it in here.
I plan to fill that area to be part of the complete fish plate on the sides. I'll fill the top back in all the way to the up right. Also going to put tabs on the top of the trailing arm bracket and tabs on the side of the up right and build a rod end arrangement that will tie the two together. That way any pulling force will transfer back to the heavier plated up right also.
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I plan to fill that area to be part of the complete fish plate on the sides. I'll fill the top back in all the way to the up right. Also going to put tabs on the top of the trailing arm bracket and tabs on the side of the up right and build a rod end arrangement that will tie the two together. That way any pulling force will transfer back to the heavier plated up right also.
Personally I don't see a need after you do the other work. It won't hurt but I see little need. Again ,just personal opinion, but I think it all stems from that missing area you will tend to now. Bdkw and I see it the same ,I think.
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Personally I don't see a need after you do the other work. It won't hurt but I see little need. Again ,just personal opinion, but I think it all stems from that missing area you will tend to now. Bdkw and I see it the same ,I think.
Most likely over kill. But Your right.
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One thing about overkill,it tends to work just fine.
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I'm really hoping I've overkilled my cooling issues.
Seems they lasted a long time to be from torque loading. I'd guess the shocks bottoming out. Still a great find, just in time.
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You were close to looking like Mo. Ron at Glamis that time. No back wheels at all.
Good thing to find it now that in Idaho!!
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Will this sucks. Went on line yesterday to order up the parts for my shock and lo and behold Fox aint got my eyelet for the my .875 shaft. Sent the order in and about five hour's later they send my a email with the bad news. I ask if they new of any of there dealers had one they said no. Looking for this piece. Anyone have one laying around they don't need. I will have a 7/8x14 thread in it.
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Lets see what we can find...................................
2.5 coilovers, right? 2.0's
Looks like diff sizes
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Shock-Eyelet-p-865.html (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Shock-Eyelet-p-865.html)
Call 'em.
Better yet, call Mark. DS says hes prob got on shelf waiting on you.
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Last resort is..................................you have a machine shop at your disposal................................ ;D ;D ;D ;D ;) ;) ;)
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I wonder how they figure the difference center to center eye? They have a .875 with a 1.680 and one that is 2.225. Any one know where they figure the center to center from?
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Lets see what we can find...................................
2.5 coilovers, right? 2.0's
Looks like diff sizes
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Shock-Eyelet-p-865.html (http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Fox-2.0-Coilover-Shock-Eyelet-p-865.html)
Call 'em.
Better yet, call Mark. DS says hes prob got on shelf waiting on you.
Thanks Carl I'll dial them up today.
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well my guess would be ( just my guess) but the 2.0 air has a 1.25 shaft then there's your .875 shaft then there is 1 smaller shaft yet. tech i think there is a 4th shaft size but might only be on shock absober only. i would call mark and ask and you might even be able to make one work of another brand that speedway motors sells. king always seem to be the odd one out on valving and parts to me anyways.
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well my guess would be ( just my guess) but the 2.0 air has a 1.25 shaft then there's your .875 shaft then there is 1 smaller shaft yet. tech i think there is a 4th shaft size but might only be on shock absober only. i would call mark and ask and you might even be able to make one work of another brand that speedway motors sells. king always seem to be the odd one out on valving and parts to me anyways.
I'm thinking it is a measurement form the center of the eye to base of the eyelet. I'm trying to confirm that now. I can see they have one for the different size shafts. I think they sell one that mite be longer to stand the spring pad of the shock higher off the mounting point.
Edit to say that like a fool I forgot to bring my old eyelet to work with me so I cant do some measurements on it.
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Last resort is..................................you have a machine shop at your disposal................................ ;D ;D ;D ;D ;) ;) ;)
If I have not found one by tonight That will happen. I'm betting that one that is machined from a nice piece of 7050T351 would be a whole lot stronger then there cast one.
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I'm thinking it is a measurement form the center of the eye to base of the eyelet. I'm trying to confirm that now. I can see they have one for the different size shafts. I think they sell one that mite be longer to stand the spring pad of the shock higher off the mounting point.
Edit to say that like a fool I forgot to bring my old eyelet to work with me so I cant do some measurements on it.
that and other options lol
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I'm thinking it is a measurement form the center of the eye to base of the eyelet. I'm trying to confirm that now. I can see they have one for the different size shafts. I think they sell one that mite be longer to stand the spring pad of the shock higher off the mounting point.
Edit to say that like a fool I forgot to bring my old eyelet to work with me so I cant do some measurements on it.
So far as I know there is a short and long eye available. Longer would be the oddball AFIK.
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so what did mark at marks sand trans say?
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so what did mark at marks sand trans say?
Mark hasn't got back with me yet. I went ahead this morning and ordered a set of the .875 2.225 eyelets from Poly Performance. Thanks for the link Carl. I hope they have them. I'll call today and confirm that they do and shipped. These are about .500 taller so my spring pad will stand up that much higher. I have always had to keep my bearing carrier twisted back about ten degrees so the transverse rod perch did not interfere with the spring perch. This situation always gave me about .25 more toe at full bump. Having that extra .500 higher spring perch will let me rotate the carrier straight up and down. Or ninety degree's to the ground. Going to change out my rear top tender springs form the 400# in the car now to 450# springs. That will give 450 over 450. Mite take care of the small amount of coil bind that I have now.
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Got the drivers side bearing carrier off last night and have both going to the sand blaster this morning. Look close at the inside outer plate of the trailing arm bracket. You can see that it to has started cracking. I think this situation has been evolving for some time. I could only imagine what would have happened if this had gave way while hauling ass threw one of them bowls out in Glamis. drowning
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ahhhhh that woulda been ugly at the bottom of a bowl!!
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Just can't win for losing. Got my axle's tore down and cleaned Sunday and found three of the four toasted. This really pissesssssssssssss me off. I use what should be the best grease fifty fifty mix Molly 101 and Belay. This stuff is like 40 or 50 bucks a tube. Boots are grate no leakage. Grease stuck on the stars and a total biotech to get off. Just as much grease in them as the day they were packed. These are RCV's best $220.00 cv's with the inside one's having the 300M stars and the outside one's having the 4130 stars. All have the special coated 4130 cage. I only have about .250 plunge and I have my suspicion strapped off at 22 degrees.
And to make matters worse I'v been told I drive like a little old blue haired lady. drowning LMAO
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PS
The worse one is from the opposite side of the damage.
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It's that thick ,tacky,slow flowing grease concoction many,like you, run IMO. Not trying to be a smartass or anything but ,it has long been my thinking that the cv lube needs to be moly rich without being thick . That way it can flow easily back into place each time the cv balls wipe the tracks "dry" as the cv cycles each and every revolution. I also feel that the cv boot actually acts as a "pump" transferreng the grease from side to side of the cv. Too high viscosity or too much tack will prevent this important action,IMHO. I'm suggesting a high quality,low viscosity bearing lube to which is added a large amount of moly paste,approximately 4oz. paste to tube. Mix well. Basically camshaft break in lube. LOL!!!!!
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The lube never gets warm drivin like old bue hair. rofl
I'm suprised you couldn't hear those clicking.
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The lube never gets warm drivin like old bue hair. rofl
I'm suprised you couldn't hear those clicking.
Not a sound. Quite as a church mouse.
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Believe me when I say that if they were clicking my wife would beat the hell out of my knee letting know there was something wrong. Sylvia can hear a pin drop in a wind storm at a hundred :o yards. Don't care how much back ground noise from my and everyone else's engines there is. If anything changes tune on that call she will know. You all want to be careful what you say in your trailers at night. NASA ain't got nothing on her. rofl :o :o
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that is too bad, but good that you found now .it's pisssssing for sure :k
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What brand of CV's are those? I don't think I have ever seen a star that bad.
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Crap, any chance RCV got em any can make good by end of week? You get 'em straight from them or thru someone else?
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What brand of CV's are those? I don't think I have ever seen a star that bad.
Two inter cv's are 300M stars from RCV.
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Crap, any chance RCV got em any can make good by end of week? You get 'em straight from them or thru someone else?
Just ordered four new cv's and boots over $900.00 with shipping. drowning. Put and email into them for a copy of there liniment-ed life time warranty they talk about but I see nothing on there Webb page. I tied to put together a package of four rebuild kits 300M stars, 4131 cages and new balls. It came out within 200 bucks of all new cv's. Even buying everything individually stars,cages and balls did not save that much. kick. The two inside cv's are there's that I bought about four years ago. Full race 300M, 4130 the whole nine yards.
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Let me state this in big words My suspicion is strapped to 22* And I have very little or zero back angle on my axles. Plus I have always had them clocked.
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Just bring the parts and the ice cream maker. We will help reassemble while eating a frosty bowl. Those stars were not far from KABOOM!
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Just bring the parts and the ice cream maker. We will help reassemble while eating a frosty bowl. Those stars were not far from KABOOM!
Your so right. The bright silver one one the left is cracked clean thru two of it's lob's.
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What were you using for grease? Man those look bad..............
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What were you using for grease? Man those look bad..............
50/50 mix Molly 101 and bell-ray. Been said is the best.
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i have been using catepillar gold . well atleas there is a life time warranty but it still stinks that you have to use it!!
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i have been using catepillar gold . well atleas there is a life time warranty but it still stinks that you have to use it!!
Funny thing about the RCV warranty. They called to affirm that I had the flange plates that the boot I ordered fit on. After I told him I did, I ask if he had received my email about where is the warranty was shown on their webb site. Well he said I don't really know. Said he thought it had been taken down for some rewording and rework. Said he would look into it. bs1 Anyone every try to claim on a cv warranty from them?
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50/50 mix Molly 101 and bell-ray. Been said is the best.
Welllllll,apparently not. ;)
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i have been using catepillar gold . well atleas there is a life time warranty but it still stinks that you have to use it!!
rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl rofl
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Check your email Glenn.
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Warrenty is right on home page. "No questions ask" lifetime warrenty.
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50/50 mix Molly 101 and bell-ray. Been said is the best.
I does work well, but is a serious PITA. I hate working with it. The only real advantage to it is it's high temp performance.
Have also had good luck with the CAT gold in the front of 4WD pre-runners.
The NEO CV grease also holds up well and is about a million times easier to clean up than the Bel-ray/Swepco mix.
Have also heard really good things about this stuff, but have yet to use it Myself due to cost. Maybe when somebody else is paying for it I will give it a go LOL....
http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092 (http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092)
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I does work well, but is a serious PITA. I hate working with it. The only real advantage to it is it's high temp performance.
Have also had good luck with the CAT gold in the front of 4WD pre-runners.
The NEO CV grease also holds up well and is about a million times easier to clean up than the Bel-ray/Swepco mix.
Have also heard really good things about this stuff, but have yet to use it Myself due to cost. Maybe when somebody else is paying for it I will give it a go LOL....
http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092 (http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092)
Owch that pricey.
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Owch that pricey.
Neither are 4 new cv's. kick
But thats 5lbs of grease, more than you would ever need for the car. But I tend to use the good stuff for everything, since I already have some.
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This just all comes back down to the fact that plunging cv's are really being pushed beyond their limits. If we really need(we do,unfortunately)grease capable of lubing at 500-600 degreesF and full of moly at 5-20% we are just kidding ourselves about longevity of cv's. What is needed is a move towards non plunging cv's like some of us have done. They are available from RCV for 930 size. What is needed now is the 934 size from them. The running temp of a non plunge compared to a plunging cv is dramatically higher. That is the problem. It is not the components fault we are pushing them past their limits of remaining lubed.
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I does work well, but is a serious PITA. I hate working with it. The only real advantage to it is it's high temp performance.
Have also had good luck with the CAT gold in the front of 4WD pre-runners.
The NEO CV grease also holds up well and is about a million times easier to clean up than the Bel-ray/Swepco mix.
Have also heard really good things about this stuff, but have yet to use it Myself due to cost. Maybe when somebody else is paying for it I will give it a go LOL....
http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092 (http://syntheticlubricants.aerospacelubricants.com/item/semiconductor-optical---industrial-oem/tribolube-5/pc05-9443?&plpver=10&origin=advsrch&by=prod&filter=0&categid=3001259&prodid=3001092)
In reading all the infor on this stuff it still only shows a 350* working temp. Yes it dose show a 550* dropping point but not that hi on the working temps.
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This just all comes back down to the fact that plunging cv's are really being pushed beyond their limits. If we really need(we do,unfortunately)grease capable of lubing at 500-600 degreesF and full of moly at 5-20% we are just kidding ourselves about longevity of cv's. What is needed is a move towards non plunging cv's like some of us have done. They are available from RCV for 930 size. What is needed now is the 934 size from them. The running temp of a non plunge compared to a plunging cv is dramatically higher. That is the problem. It is not the components fault we are pushing them past their limits of remaining lubed.
Yep. The intended purpose of the 930 joint was transfer of fairly large power in a vehicle with what, 6" wheel travel.
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This just all comes back down to the fact that plunging cv's are really being pushed beyond their limits. If we really need(we do,unfortunately)grease capable of lubing at 500-600 degreesF and full of moly at 5-20% we are just kidding ourselves about longevity of cv's. What is needed is a move towards non plunging cv's like some of us have done. They are available from RCV for 930 size. What is needed now is the 934 size from them. The running temp of a non plunge compared to a plunging cv is dramatically higher. That is the problem. It is not the components fault we are pushing them past their limits of remaining lubed.
i use non plunging 930 cv's from rcv on the inside and 1997 f150 on my outers. i have checked them with my temp gun many times on a 4 day trip to LS. the inners which are the non plung 930's from rcv and pretty consistantly saw 175* and 145* on the outer 97 f150. the f150 cv's have a larger surface area than the non plunge 930 as well. the cat gold grease says max temp 500* so i figured average operating temp would prob be around 250* or 300*, i figured i was covered this way. the tube says it only has 5% moly in it. btw u-joints run about half that temp maybe a hair over half but none the less. i was checking enemy's u-joints at the same time as mine.
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Fast, you been quiet here last few days. Does that mean you've been a busy bee in the shop? Hows it going?
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Fast, you been quiet here last few days. Does that mean you've been a busy bee in the shop? Hows it going?
You are correct sir.
Been hammering it for the last two days. Finished up on the bearing carriers last night late and off to be powder coated this morning. Told the nice lady at the desk that there would be two brand new bengies to her if she pushed them thru today or early tomorrow. Put a big smile on her face and she said she could make that happen. Got all the gusset's done and started to tig them on but ran out of argon. Had to finish with the wire feed but they will hold together. I'll bet my life on them. They don't look pristine but look's don't count anymore. Big brown truck had left all my new cv's and boots at the back door when I got home from work yesterday and the fed-x truck left my shock rebuild stuff on my desk also. Only thing now is for the the big brown truck to get me my shock ends today. I'll work on cleaning up the shop tonight, looks like a bull went in the front door and out the back at a full run. Most time consuming thing left now is the shocks and string lining the center of the car so I can line the rear suspension back up on assembly.
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Argon bottles aren't supposed to run out unless it's after the welding store has closed on sat................
Which reminds Me, I need to fill My spare................
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Spare???? What is this thing you call a spare???
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Spare = the Sunday bottle after you empty the Saturday bottle cause the welding store doesn't open till Monday
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Spare = the Sunday bottle after you empty the Saturday bottle cause the welding store doesn't open till Monday
rofl the only spare bottles I ever have are the ones with the wrong gas in them. rofl Actually ,the airgas dealer here lets me take a spare anytime I need it for as long as it takes for me to empty my current bottle-off the books. Sometimes that ends up being a month or more till I return the empty. I have been dealing with them for a very long time under 3 different ownerships. Smallville,USA-gotta love it.
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Oky doky, in by eight out by two. Just goes to show what two fresh benjim's will do. :laugh: Big brown truck dropped off the rest of my shock parts. Another hi hi ho for Carl for the web link. Every one has come thru so it's going to be a lone three day week end. Finish car then get the trailer ready. And some where in between get the ice cream freezers loaded.
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Don't worry about a thing other than the ice cream freezers. Nothing else matters........................
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Don't worry about a thing other than the ice cream freezers. Nothing else matters........................
^^^^What he said X 2^^^^
I picking up 2nd freezer and wife found missing lid. ;D Looking good Glen, test time shortly.
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He better test the crap out of it. St.A's is only a couple weeks after LS!!
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He better test the crap out of it. St.A's is only a couple weeks after LS!!
drowning kick 10:
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Hey,I've been there!!!!
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looking good fast!! and what fabbr and carl said !! +3
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The bitch is back.
Let her down off the jack stands today and string line the suspension. Made a big difference now that I got the rear uprights at the right angle. Started cleaning the TH and will load up Wednesday morning and hit the road for LS. Should be in camp by two o'clock. Phone pick's ain't for chit but better then nothing.
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Awesome Fast!!! Looks damn good!
Im taking an extra starter down for DS, guess his took a shit unloading it when he got down there today ???
Gotta chase that kind of luck right the hell outa here!
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it didn't work,huh. We have had some carnage this week @ LS for sure. Nothing too severe though!