$4500 obo i have it listed for $4800 on a few other sites but for dts members i would suggest rebuilding the turbo,,,,cheap and easy to do and the rebuild kits are only $100 or send it to turbo lab and let them rebuild and re balance it.
I am re powering my sand rail. i am selling my turbo 2001 hayabusa engine.
i have had heavier valve springs ( carpenter) installed along with a valve job at the time to be safe for adding a turbo.
new timing chain and guides as well.
the clutch has had the back tq limiter replaced with a solid one, perfromance clutch with 60 lb springs.
clutch case saver also installed.
the turbo is a stage I system ( mitsibishi turbo) hahn race craft early turbo , waste gate set at 7 lbs boost. bov set at 9 lbs. there are 2 larger compressor wheels and housings for higher boost and turbo lab also has a 9 blade un clipped wheel for quicker spool up. so many options to go. this set up runs on premium pump fuel. but to be safe i have alwayw run it on a 50/50 mix of prem and 100 octane unleaded.
comes with the RCC Billet Raising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator.
comes with FULL bazzaz system ( FI controller with AUTO TUNER with bosch 5 wire O2 sensor )
http://www.bazzaz.net/index.php/suzuki/gsx1300r-02-07 and
http://www.bazzaz.net/index.php/fuel-control/z-afm-self-mapper self mapper and fi controller are $650 new,
complete busa wire harness cleaned as used in my rail with factory key and instrument cluster ( cluster is off an '05). the auto tuner is the easiest to use for the most basic of beginners! you can download the program off there site the flywheel and pcm are off an 2005 so the bazzaz system can be used. no harness change needed for an 01 busa to do this just swap those two and your good and has ran great and worked great for a few years.
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full stainless exhaust and stainless manifold with solid 1 piece flange.
you will need an aftermarket oil cooler as i am keeping this one. but i do have the factory one if you want it. $4800 for the above obo
now i am going to cut the cradle out for the new motor. so if you would like the motor with the rear drive intact in the rear cradle. i will cut the engine/suspension cradle right at the frame so it can be welded back into another frame then all you have to do is fab the front motor mounts. i have a pair of unwelded wheel bearing carriers that match the suspension tab mounts on the cradle, i will include them as well. for another $1200
the rear drive is one of sinister sand sports. there is one season on the new 70 tooth sprocket that shows 0 signs of wear! ( best sprockets money can buy imo) 1 season on new front (14) triple z ek chain. i have a spare set of bearings with race's and seals that go with it. set up for 930 cv's , cv's do not go with it. i currently run non plunge 930's with 1/16" axle plunge.
shifter and shift cable also go with it.
$300 for radiator with shroud and fan if interested. it's a 2 pass, designed and set up specifically for this busa engine. holds 210* on a 100* day so perfect sizing.
