ecotec cvt clutch options

[Whiplash]

Well I at least figured out the weight of the ECO. It seems to be it is about 225lbs without the stock trans or power steering so I am sure once I get all the smog BS stripped off I can get it a little lighter so its not even 100lbs more than the bike motor, so hopefully with a little weight reduction I can get it to be about 100lbs difference even with the clutch, no reverse box though. I am liking this more and more, I think the torque will far out weigh the added weight, plus I might get to to wheelies!

[Whiplash]

If I remember right I read somewhere the bus box is about 80#
Most of the CVT's ive worked with have an idle ratio of about 3.25 to 1 with larger secondaries the number will go up

So this is the same as the gear ratio or is that before it spins up and changes to the taller gearing?

[Yummi]

The real problem I have with the VW assuming it shifts nice is the size and weight, I can keep my weight close to the MC engine with the clutch, if I don't do reverse, with the VW it is like 200lbs more isn't it?

80# for the tranny with reverse that can easily handle the eco tech.

I am just trying to basically get a MC powered car with no shifting and tons of TQ, reliability and easy power potential. Like a fast version of my Polaris RZR, it soo fun in the bowls because you never have to think about what you are doing, just mash the gas and try not to hit anyone!

I see the appeal.  I also know that for the most part bowling is a 2nd gear adventure for most folks most the time in most cars, my 2.0l  the LS1's I run with, the class 5 turbo I run with, we are all in 2nd gear most of the time.  I don't mind the trade off of occasional shift now and again for the proven set up.

I gotta believe this would be a killer combo, why is it nobody seems to think so?

I agree CVT is a proven winner in a dune car.  I have never driven one, other than low pwer Rhinos, etc... but folks who have swear by them.  Lots of Desert Dog Cyotoes out running around.... 

I am a fan of the X-18 for a couple of reasons; I just wish they would offer it in a bus box version as my choice is to row my own.....

[Whiplash]

Well Eamon at X-18 just replied to my E-mail about buying the setup he uses in his car, I can get the whole clutch setup with the shaft bracing and clutch hub for the engine for about $1400.00 does that sound like a good deal to you guys, I figure it would be a great starter setup for me as I would not have to tune  it at all to go riding the first time! He is a great guy and always willing to help it seems. Let me know what you think!

[SPEC]

Is that with the clutches calibrated?
I mean with all the guts? if it is that is a smokin deal in my opinion

[SPEC]

I agree CVT is a proven winner in a dune car.  I have never driven one, other than low pwer Rhinos, etc... but folks who have swear by them.  Lots of Desert Dog Cyotoes out running around....

If LS happens you can drive my 750 with a cvt and a potent 3 cyl. 2 stroke

[Whiplash]

I believe it is all set up but I will make sure!

[LiveWire]

Well Eamon at X-18 just replied to my E-mail about buying the setup he uses in his car, I can get the whole clutch setup with the shaft bracing and clutch hub for the engine for about $1400.00 does that sound like a good deal to you guys, I figure it would be a great starter setup for me as I would not have to tune  it at all to go riding the first time! He is a great guy and always willing to help it seems. Let me know what you think!

How much for just the hub? $1400 sounds kind of high. I can get you the 4-Pro Drive calibrated with a Heel Clicker setups that is adjustable later, Super Torquer Driven (calibrated) and belt for a lot less than $1400. I can get you the shaft bracing too. I am assuming he means the type that connects the clutch shafts together on the outside. That will actually help doing the setup because you can set it up with the proper center distance and use it as a jig.

[Admin]

The real problem I have with the VW assuming it shifts nice is the size and weight, I can keep my weight close to the MC engine with the clutch, if I don't do reverse, with the VW it is like 200lbs more isn't it? Not to mention I have no room for it as the engine would then have to be mounted longitudinally vs transverse for the clutch. I am just trying to basically get a MC powered car with no shifting and tons of TQ, reliability and easy power potential. Like a fast version of my Polaris RZR, it soo fun in the bowls because you never have to think about what you are doing, just mash the gas and try not to hit anyone!

Anyone know what the gear reduction of these clutches will be if any? It seems they would have some but maybe I don't understand how they work yet.

Am I wrong to be trying this? Maybe I am chasing something that is not that great, it seems nobody really likes the idea, would a car that weighs literally 1100ish with me in it not be a rocket even with a stock ECO? I have been in the X-18 and its like nearly 2X heavier than mine and it really moved pretty good and does like 100mph top end. I gotta believe this would be a killer combo, why is it nobody seems to think so?

I think it would be bad ass, till you had to push it backwards, I only think your waisting your time doing it with no reverse and using a short chain jackshaft.. I have did the short chain jackshaft, and the money i blew i could have paid for at least half the rpm box, i gave up on it early, i likely could have threw enuff more at it to pay for 3/4 if not all of it...

[Whiplash]

Ok, well I will have to think about it then Bug, as for Livewire, can you give me a total cost for it all including the coupler for the engine Calibrated?

[Whiplash]

[Admin]

I think you would be better off to use the stock eco trans before anything like that...

[Boostinjdm]

So if I just fabbed a little housing to hold oil in and use sealed bearings, you don't think it would hold? I think I could get it to live, and it would be very simple to build, just use the sealed type pillow blocks and silicone them to the outer plates on either side then fill er up... Maybe im too dumb for this kind of stuff and it wont work, just seems easy, the only enemy there is heat right?

You won't get pillow blocks to seal, doesn't matter how much silicone you use.  I built a mixer at work to stir water into copper and insulation pieces before separating them, and the water always got past the bearings.  It either went through the seals themselves or between the bearing and the casting.  That was in a very abrasive environment turning at low speeds and always cool.  I'd bet warm oil and high rpms would let the oil pass right through the pillow blocks.

[Whiplash]

Well if not pillows, then I could use bearing housings from a rear end or something, I am sure I could make it happen as far as the sealing goes.

[Whiplash]

How big is the Eco trans? could be an option if its light, but I really like the idea of the clutch. I am not saying I will not use the reverse box but I would like to try the "casette" if you will. I can always go back to the box if I need to.