ecotec cvt clutch options

[LiveWire]

You'll need an adapter that bolts to the end of the crank shaft and provides the 30mm, 10:1 taper stub for the clutch to mount to. I would suggest a Comet 4-Pro drive clutch. It has 4 arms instead of 3, 4 sets of posts to transfer power, etc. I can get you one for $350. MSRP is like $475. It is uncalibrated. I would suggest a billet Heel Clicker kit for calibration. It includes 3 springs and cam arms that are adjustable in weight at 3 points for take off/low speed, mid speed and high speed. You want the billet ones because they have a heavier shoulder weight and are stronger for adding a lot of extra shoulder weight without breaking. The shoulder is for take off/low speed. You want them heavy there to upshift hard off the line taking advantage of the low end torque. I would suggest a Super Torquer Rigid billet driven clutch. A Dayco Ultimax 3 belt. I can get you everything except the adapter, at least right now.

[Admin]

I wouldn't even think of doing it with a ecotech and a cassette... Need some sort of trans or don't waste your time or money...

[Whiplash]

Why? I really don't need reverse I just want the torque!

[Admin]

Why? I really don't need reverse I just want the torque!

a short chain and your reliability is gonna suck, after you replace the chain 10x your halfway to a gear box... plus the money you spend to build the jackshaft...

[Whiplash]

Ah, I see, the clutch takes some of my effective chain length away right?, but if I had enough length, it could be a great way to maximize performance no? Assuming I really don't need the reverse, as I already have the 280lbft starter motor I need to make an electric reverse incorporated into the jackshaft setup that should be fine for the occasional need.

[Whiplash]

Also it seems a setup like this without the rev. box would be very compact since the clutch is coming off the centerline of the crankshaft rather than after the trans on a bike engine. I am just exploring a cheaper way to do the car engine without paying for a frigging 5k trans! not to mention the size, and I hate VW trannies they shift terrible. The reason I like this idea also is I got to ride in a X18 car a few weeks ago up olds hill, man that thing really flew! I was surprised with that much weight how well it performed! we were doing like 60 at the top, and he rolled through the whoops too, so no run at it, really suprised me! I figure that engine in my buggy would be a rocket! then add the turbo later.. any input?

[Nutz4sand]

Before you settle on a CVT anywhere make sure you can find a belt to fit it.  Many sleds have the clutches about an inch apart at thier closest point. A tiny bit of to much of the wrong belt can play havoc with a CVT's perfromance. It might get you back to the parking lot if its a LITTLE wrong but if the belt is not dead on its likely gonna suck for performance.

There are a lot of belt options out there and someone may know where to get custom or specialty belts but they usually will drive the cost of the belt WAY up and that having the extra belts (A consumable item) around might add up to the cost of a tranny before to aweful long.

A good common affordable belt is a real good thing to have with a CVT.

SO does anyone know where to find longer belts for a good price in case a person had to get around the close distance issue?

I know there were a few sleds that had a direct drive to the track. (They had no chain case) The secondary (driven) clutch was HUGE to make up the geardown and the belts were longer than heck. But it was a cruiser sled and not a power house. Those belts might not be able to deal with lotsa power and the heavier weight of the buggy. The sleds with this direct drive belt system were touted as being reallly light due the missing chain cases and all that.

 

[Admin]

Im running stock arctic cat belts at 12 1/8" center to center distance. as i said elsewere best thing to do is set to oem specs...The ski doo 670 and 583 have rather long belts as well...

[SPEC]

Nutz made a good point,
You also have to keep in mind that the width of the belt is extremely important...And changes from manufacturer to manufacturer...Dayco ultimax 3 is prolly the king of belts( I think livewire already stated that)
A point that is of worthy mention is Back shifting of the secondary...
Most guys overlook Backshifting when setting up the clutching, being in the sand I'm sure is not anywhere near as important in the woods

[Whiplash]

Thanks for the help guys keep en coming, I need all the info I can get, I really like the idea of not shifting the more I think about it!

[LiveWire]

An RPM is not $5K, it is like $2200 for the strongest one. Final price on a cassette drive will still end up being pretty, then add in the electric reverse... The RPM box has spur gears in it. Just a guess, but I bet it is 97%+ efficient. O-ring chains are less efficient than regular chains. Put 2 of them in a cassette for a 2 stage reduction and I would have to wonder where you would end up for efficiency. I personally would not even consider having a car that heavy without (real) reverse.

A steel helix which I said was important for use in dirt will also help back shifting. Think of the difference between pushing a cart with rubber tires on dirt compared to a steel wheeled cart on a painted and paved shop floor. Steel rollers on a steel helix roll easier than nylon on aluminum. Less friction means less torque difference required between upshift and back shift. The Super Torquer clutch is supposed to be even better for back shifting. The helix radius changes as through the rotation of the clutch. It keeps the lever ratio of - belt to helix:helix to center - the same as the clutch shifts. It accomplishes what a multi angle helix is supposed to, but better somehow.

[Whiplash]

UH OK, I believe you.... LOL! I am way over my head here, but if you guys say it then I believe it, Maybe I should do a reverse box, but Im really only going to weigh like 1000-1200lbs with the Eco motor, so I think I could make do but why not go all the way, and it would be easier to configure too which is worth $$ as well in time...

[Yummi]

but why not go all the way, and it would be easier to configure too which is worth $$ as well in time...

Stick with a bus and an adapter....  $$$  and time ahead .......... 

without paying for a frigging 5k trans! not to mention the size, and I hate VW trannies they shift terrible.  any input?

Talk to Az Transaxle.  He might be able to do better than that.  Mine shifts bitchen now that he rebuilt it.  No slop, precise, etc.  You may have had bad experience with worn ones, but a good one is pretty nice.....

[Whiplash]

The real problem I have with the VW assuming it shifts nice is the size and weight, I can keep my weight close to the MC engine with the clutch, if I don't do reverse, with the VW it is like 200lbs more isn't it? Not to mention I have no room for it as the engine would then have to be mounted longitudinally vs transverse for the clutch. I am just trying to basically get a MC powered car with no shifting and tons of TQ, reliability and easy power potential. Like a fast version of my Polaris RZR, it soo fun in the bowls because you never have to think about what you are doing, just mash the gas and try not to hit anyone!

Anyone know what the gear reduction of these clutches will be if any? It seems they would have some but maybe I don't understand how they work yet.

Am I wrong to be trying this? Maybe I am chasing something that is not that great, it seems nobody really likes the idea, would a car that weighs literally 1100ish with me in it not be a rocket even with a stock ECO? I have been in the X-18 and its like nearly 2X heavier than mine and it really moved pretty good and does like 100mph top end. I gotta believe this would be a killer combo, why is it nobody seems to think so?

[SPEC]

If I remember right I read somewhere the bus box is about 80#
Most of the CVT's ive worked with have an idle ratio of about 3.25 to 1 with larger secondaries the number will go up