DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Member Project Logs => Topic started by: CrazyFastFab on July 06, 2013, 11:34:30 PM
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Ya there is nothing crazy fast about my build. I have been lurking on the buggy sites for the past 5 years and a couple of years ago started actually posting here. Anyway you guys have been very helpful and I am hoping to help someone else with their build and of coarse get some useful feedback on the build.
I would like to thank DS, Enemy and Carl for there help thus far.
Here is what I plan to build.
Hayabusa, Jeffco, turn brakes, 20 - 22" of travel all around and a grin from ear to ear.
One of the hard things building a rail in the New Mexico is there isn't too many other people or rails to look at and learn from.
Anyway, here is what I hope to build.
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I see trailing arm rear suspension. Any particular reason/s? What is wheelbase target?Wheel/tire sizes ? Etc.?
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So does this mean we have a start date? And build thread? Yeah!!
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Maybe it is just me, but i think the rear support bar before the rear tire could be better utilized and tied into the b pillar, poss even making a c pillar or relocating the b?
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Well a build thread with no pic sucks. I spent all night trying to add some more pics.
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One of the things that helps me is seeing the parts the rest of you guys are using. I picked up a '08 Hayabusa and Jeffco from Craigslist. Hayabusa is getting rebuilt now.
Attached are the axles I got off of GlamisDunes and the Sway Away Shocks I plan to use for the front. I had the shocks from a previous project.
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Seems like I can add one picture every 12 hours. I got to go to shop get something done.
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Why the rebuild on the busa?
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Seems like I can add one picture every 12 hours. I got to go to shop get something done.
your pictures are pretty big. try resizing them. quicker upload that way and also makes this server happy. Or, use a service like photo bucket, etc, they can handle lots of uploads at once and have a greater capacity. then, just img code them to the post.
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Shocks from a previous project for the front.
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The seat I picked up from Craigslist.
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Jeffco also from Craigslist.
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Axles and wheels from Alper Motorsports.
Both front and rear axles are Gray Area. THE wheels are from BTR.
Rear street tires from the local used tire place.
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Frame, largely inspired by DSrace's frames. To me they are different than the typical California style frames.
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The nose didn't seem right to me so I changed it.
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Liked that front end so kept working. I mounted DS's front clip.
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Got the seats tacked in.
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Why the rebuild on the busa?
Well, I heard the rail run before buying the engine. It was a little hard to start but seemed to run fine. When I got it home I found it had sucked on a lot of sand. Figured it is easier to do it now while the engine was out.
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The red lines on the drawing are supposed to represent the shocks. I keep going back forth on 6 link or arm rear end but right now I am leaning towards 6 link.
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nice work.What's the reasoning for the 6 link?
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Seems easier to build and once it is done it can be adjusted in the field if needed. It also seems like if one was to bend some thing, not that I would do that but on somebody else car, one could use one or two links from the other side to get back the trailer.
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Why not just do a 5 link? Simpler yet. Not trying to be a pain ,just asking .
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No great reason other than having some built in redundancy in the suspension.
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nice work.What's the reasoning for the 6 link?
DS is in his ear? LMAO
Frame is looking good, the time spent collecting $$$$ parts before you start really speeds up the build. Cant believe you didn't like the skewer nose. ;D
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didn't want to go with the point huh! lol
well it looks like a pretty close copy but I can see a few diff's you have changed aside from the nose. looks good and don't forget to add the bracing to the lower frame section from rear to front. I see the 2 tubes under the seat to the nose and that is good although it might make pedal placement a little more tricky. so how wide is the inside elbow to elbow?
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what size rear tires are you going to run?
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Thanks, ya I couldn't leave the design alone I had to change some stuff but I have kept true to the general lines of your car. It has 60" elbow to elbow. I wish I would have made it a little taller.
The brakes are going to be reverse hanging and I will add a tube across the floor to brace your foot on. Learned that from the RZR's.
The rear will be the 1100 paddles and the front will be the largest tire I can get to fit on a 4" rim. The street tires I got are the $25 tires from the used place. Figured the are good enough to play around on and decide what to get later. They are 30" tall.
Thanks again,
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30" is a good starting point.
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why i asked..........if you go with a 7.60 5 rib or cutting tire on the front it should measure 28" tall depending on manufacturer. if you run 28 or 30" in the rear then you will have a balance issue. when i say balance i mean equal ground clearence front to back. now you really prob want the front to sit 2" higher than the rear w/o passengers. the tube you have welded across the lower frame behind the seats that you rear susp and engine cradle will weld to might need to be changed. i put a 35* bend on the ends of this tube to drop it 3" down. the reason for this is where the lower a-arm mounts to the front susp cradle is at the bottom and the spindle stub is located at the bottom of the spindle upright so the center is low. even if you could mount your rear links or lower a-arm in the rear at the same point , your wheel bearing or hub center will prob wind up centered on the carrier, so you already have lost ground clearence compared to front. now my bet is that loss with a 30" tire will amount to prob 2" to 4" ( depending on angle of rear cradle) and depending on where you mount your jeffco you might not be able to mount the lower rod/a-arm tabs as low as the front cradle so another 1" to 2" ground clearence loss too. this is why i drop that tube down the 3" and then brace it to the frame accordingly. and i do mean brace it! not saying you need to change it but you might want to consider it now rather than later, i know you were baseing your build off pic but you can't see all in a pic.the fram looks good from the pics but the front cradle looks real nice btw ;D
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I think the rear center bracing is more needed w/a-arms than link style. The forces are just placed at diff spots on frame. I know on my A-arm I had some serious frame flex problems first time out at dunes. DS did a great job supervising me while I welded tubes at dunes. Then I added more tubes when I returned home to carry the forces thru the bottom of the chassis.
PS. by supervising I mean he sat in a chair w/cold beer and watched. rofl ;D rofl
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He knows his place......................hehehee
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I think I am not exactly following here where is the 35* bend, on the rear to lower the rear lower link mounts? The connection points for the rear links will be in the same plane as the connection points for the front lower arm. Same is true for the upper mounts as well. I am thinking I would be looking for the front to be 1" higher in the front I like to keep the car basically neutral front to rear so it doesn't push though the corners even though I will have cutting brakes.
The 30" tire is the road tire for around the ranch. I will be setting the suspension with 1100 paddles.
why i asked..........if you go with a 7.60 5 rib or cutting tire on the front it should measure 28" tall depending on manufacturer. if you run 28 or 30" in the rear then you will have a balance issue. when i say balance i mean equal ground clearence front to back. now you really prob want the front to sit 2" higher than the rear w/o passengers. the tube you have welded across the lower frame behind the seats that you rear susp and engine cradle will weld to might need to be changed. i put a 35* bend on the ends of this tube to drop it 3" down. the reason for this is where the lower a-arm mounts to the front susp cradle is at the bottom and the spindle stub is located at the bottom of the spindle upright so the center is low. even if you could mount your rear links or lower a-arm in the rear at the same point , your wheel bearing or hub center will prob wind up centered on the carrier, so you already have lost ground clearence compared to front. now my bet is that loss with a 30" tire will amount to prob 2" to 4" ( depending on angle of rear cradle) and depending on where you mount your jeffco you might not be able to mount the lower rod/a-arm tabs as low as the front cradle so another 1" to 2" ground clearence loss too. this is why i drop that tube down the 3" and then brace it to the frame accordingly. and i do mean brace it! not saying you need to change it but you might want to consider it now rather than later, i know you were baseing your build off pic but you can't see all in a pic.the fram looks good from the pics but the front cradle looks real nice btw ;D
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I think the rear center bracing is more needed w/a-arms than link style. The forces are just placed at diff spots on frame. I know on my A-arm I had some serious frame flex problems first time out at dunes. DS did a great job supervising me while I welded tubes at dunes. Then I added more tubes when I returned home to carry the forces thru the bottom of the chassis.
PS. by supervising I mean he sat in a chair w/cold beer and watched. rofl ;D rofl
sat in carls chair drinking one of his beers and watched! LMAO LMAO I did have some extra tube I gave him to weld in so that was my job rofl rofl
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I think I am not exactly following here where is the 35* bend, on the rear to lower the rear lower link mounts? The connection points for the rear links will be in the same plane as the connection points for the front lower arm. Same is true for the upper mounts as well. I am thinking I would be looking for the front to be 1" higher in the front I like to keep the car basically neutral front to rear so it doesn't push though the corners even though I will have cutting brakes.
The 30" tire is the road tire for around the ranch. I will be setting the suspension with 1100 paddles.
1100 paddles are 31" tall and factor for ground clearance in your cad model and you'll see what I am talking about. I set the rail nose up 2" so that once two occupants sit down inside the rail it sit level but I pre fer mine up so I set mine a little higher. the tube that runs left to right on the lower frame in the far back in the first picture. this tube is the tube you seat mount tubes will weld too as well as your engine/suspension cradle if you continue to copy one of mine. if you are not then I am not sure where all of yours will mount. this tube is the one I talk about to lower the rear cradles to get the equal ground clearance I talked about in my post.
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He knows his place......................hehehee
;D
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So I guess I am going to cut those bottom bars out and do the floor similar to how the rest of you have done it. My head is just to close to the frame. I was hoping to keep the floor flat so one piece of metal could cover the entire rail.
Been working on the parts that rear carriers mount to i.e. built them thru them away rebuilt them and so on.
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My floor is flat. I can relate to the " built them thru them away rebuilt them and so on." thing too!!!
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I would try to stay with flat floor too, just easier. The pic of the seats in car, they look real high from floor. Out of car on ground they dont look that high? How did you mount? I mount back seat bracket at floor level and raise front to a comfy angle. I'm tall. 6'4", and have 6" head room on my DS copy.
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I installed them on a slide so the kids can adjust and drive. I also raised the front of the seat four inches to give it that angle. The slide and the 1.25 tubing add 3 inches the seat. Maybe I did get the frame height right.
Off to do some more grinding.......
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Put a large order in with SandParts.com because Anthony is a supporter of this website. I have started receiving some of those parts.
Here are the 2.5 Sway Away shocks for the rear. This would have been hard to do on purpose but the two shock boxes where taped together and during shipping the two valve stems hit each other breaking both of them.
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Well,that sucks but I'm sure he'll get new stems for you . Lost the charge but you'll need to have a nitrogen bottle available anyway to air up when changing oil levels and such while tuning them.
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It's a wonder how much of anything gets to us undamaged . Between crappy packaging and freight providers we ain't got a snowballs chance in hades. LOL!!!!!!
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ya know the funny part it they will blame it on the person that packaged it rather than on the rigid roller coaster they call a conveyer belt!
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I'm betting some delivery person along the line just threw them on the dock or truck floor.
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Steering Parts from Sand Parts.com
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Ya, I was telling them to just send me the valve stems and some fluid and I would be happy. Hope I don't have to send them back.
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Brake parts The master cylinders and pedals came from Ebay. The Jamar parts are from Sand parts.com. For disc brakes should I send the 10 psig checks back and get the 2 psig version or will the 10 psig work?
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2 pound residual valves. If you actually need 10's you have other issues.......
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Ya, I mistakenly ordered the 10's meant to get the 2 psig valves. I was thinking I more than likely won't need them period because I have a 1" cylinder the run the rears and a 7/8" for the fronts.
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You only actually need residual valves only if the MC is below or near below the calipers(piston sizes do not matter). Still 2# residuals are the correct choice for disc brakes. 10# residuals will make caliper drag the rotor too much.
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If they popped off when being tossed around, person who did prob about crapped his/her pants. rofl Nothing like Xmas in the summertime!!
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Someone ,somewhere heard them pop off. Typical though,ignore it and it never happened. LOL!!!!
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ya that would've been loud when they blew and had to see the box expand! lol
the #10 res valves as I have always understood it were for drum brakes. I have never ran any resid vavles on any rail I have built w/o problems.
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One of the rails I built had to have them but this time I am going with hanging pedals. I hope to have the master cylinders far enough above the brakes not to need them. They are easy enough to cut in later anyway. Thanks for the input.
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Are you positive the mc's don't already have one? Some do.
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So I ended up picking up another project for the guy that is doing my engine work. His project was a mess the guy he had welding did know how and had no idea how to set up suspension so I fixed a few issues on it. It is a mini sprint frame that he had me put a R1 engine in. He bought all Rhino suspension parts that I mounted for him. He is also using the Rhino diff via a drive shaft directly off of the R1 tranny.
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Here is what I have been working on for mine I don't know what the official name of this part is but I have a lot of time in these. Figured I would post them for comments.
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Nice,light and stout.
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hows the project coming now that you have the new beefy tabs?
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Well I started to bolt up the rear wheels and locate those tabs on the frame and the Micro Stubs don't fit when assembled. I had checked fit with just the bearing. A real drag, I spent three weeks on those things. So back the drawing board. I am going to try and get a set made out of 3/8" plate and bent. Just think all the practice I got building those or at least that is what I am telling myself.
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WHy don't they fit now? Shrinkage?
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I guessing cv won't go inside backing it?
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OOPS!
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Shrinkage I hate when that happens
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what part doesn't fit? what hubs or wheel bearings are you using? I have several plates yet cut for the f150 wheel beaings and they will work for the jeep dana 30 wheel bearing as well.
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I am using the Gray Area Micro Stubs. I think it uses the same wheel bearing but I am not sure.
The drive flange hits one of the webs I put in for support.
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Can it not be sectioned out for clearance and a new section be welded in?
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I suppose it could with a grinder, plasma and a welder you can pretty much do what ever you can imagine. I went ahead and asked a loction shop to cut some on the CNC plasma and bend them.
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Here are the sand tires, got them from Sandrailparts. I still can't got the broken shocks fixed.
1100 paddles on the rear and steerable fronts they are with in a inch of each other on height.
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Here is the Master brake cylinders and steering wheel installed.
Steering wheel was from EBay along with the Master brake cylinders. The quick release and adjustable steering column are from SandRailParts.com
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After redoing my seat mounts I have about 3 3/4" from my head to the frame. How close is to close?
I need the slides so that the kids will be able to drive.
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That's too close unless you always wear a helmet. Of course we all should wear helmets. Belts will stretch that much and your neck will stretch a lot more than you think also. With a helmet ,that clearance will be around 2" at best.
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And thanks for the offer DS on the rear end parts. Since I am using the good axles, you know the ones that have ujoints I needed to have the pivot points a little farther out there than CVs. You ought to try out some to these Ujoint axles I bet you will like them eyes
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DS is a convert to the cv world. Over a year of therapy, and lots of help from friends. Also 3 bottles of Jack Daniels Silver. The good stuff you cant buy in the USA. And thats where the friends help the most, w/the Jack. LMAO LMAO
I ended up with about 6" on mine and I'm as tall as a tree. 6'4". But I lean my seat back a tad more w/front lifted a bit. Just comfy for me. Sit in it and try is for a bit. But 3" is not quit enough.
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There is no world other than the cv world.......................................once you visit it. ;) ;D
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Got my new bearing carriers and Jeffco mounts from the plasma cutter. I got the dimensions wrong on the brake mount so I will have to cut in a new mount. These things weight a ton so they will have to spend some time at the drill press.
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Got the Jeffco mounted.
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I see you are laying the jeffco back to get as long a chain as possible on it. Good move!
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Playing with the Front suspension
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The tail. Having a hard time finding a way to accurately measure the drive shaft angle but this is to far. I think I will be going with 14" links for the links from the bearing carrier to the Jeffco.
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You are now running into the issue most have. With cv's you can have a longer axle,giving lesser cv angles than uj's will give you @ full droop. BUT cv's will allow less angle. Too late ,at this point,but that is why I prefer a arms with non plunging 930 cv's on buggies with MC engines and near zero plunge over uj's. Have you not modeled the suspension in CAD? Drawings on the floor even to see what you will be having to do and the results?
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Ya, I have it all in CAD I expected this. They are just on there to take measurements. That is just where the jack stands sit.
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how much plunge will you have?
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I shouldn't end up with any plunge. I am going to lower the jeffco by 4".
I finally got my parts to fix the shocks today.
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Thats the number to shoot for.
Hard to tell from angle on pics, but center of axle should be same height from lower inner heim and lower outer heim. Assuming same ##'s inside and outside from top to bottom heim.
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I shouldn't end up with any plunge. I am going to lower the jeffco by 4".
I finally got my parts to fix the shocks today.
Will that not put the jeff below your frame?
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Sort of, I am rebuilding that part of the frame. Those two bent piece where may calibration bends for BendTech
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Got the roof redone. It is now 6" from my head. I liked the way it looked with the lower roof better but I also like higher synaptic functions as well. The closest my two sprockets will be is 24", I hope that is enough. The engine came from a Sinister Sand Car. So the exhaust will be redone it is just in there because I was taking measurements.
Got the Jeffco lowered 4" and the engine installed. This week I will get the axles lengthened as well.
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Nothing wrong with what I see. 24" should be good unless you are hell on the jeff like enemy is. Then 24 feet wouldn't help. LOL!!! The stock busa header is not bad at all if you can use it with just tailpipe mods after the x pipe .
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Thats a few inches more than the Enemy has on the Jeffco, although he's had some crappy luck here lately with it. When chain is involved, more=better. And I'm with Fabr, Dont see anything wrong with stock header setup, maybe just change where muffler slips on so it angles where you want. Lookin good!!!
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not bad at all, i do have a few suggestions for you and a couple idea's i will prob have to call to explain. did you say that the exhaust in the pic came with the motor and was what was in a sinister sand rail? it looks like a stock header and he connected to it like i do.
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It is ,ds.
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It came out of the car (Sinister car) that sanfast was posting on here about the chain problems.
Judging by the welds on the exshuast I hope it isn't stock. Basic plan is to cut out the ugly welds and change the angle on the muffler.
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Got the roof redone. It is now 6" from my head. I liked the way it looked with the lower roof better but I also like higher synaptic functions as well. The closest my two sprockets will be is 24", I hope that is enough.
I have no more heat issues with my chain at all and you have FAR exceeded what I got out of my chain extension so you should be golden! Looking great BTW!
And that rumor about me being hell on the Jeffco is false! On the last day of this Fall trip is when I unleash the demons on that block of aluminum! ;D
Had a run of bad luck like Carl said, but thanks to DS and Shawn @ Jeffco, we are now running generation 12 of this FNR. Lots of updates inside.. I think I was on gen 5 or 6.. Couple things in question yet but got to break stuff to find the problems if you want to help build it better I recon. Just got to stop doing that on the first day out!
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It is ,ds.
sure looked like It and nothing wrong with stock header either. I welded mine with a 2 into 1 collector I made but in a 3" od collector and the welds look a little better on mine ;D ;) lol at least it won't be hard to mod for his build!! ;)
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I have no more heat issues with my chain at all and you have FAR exceeded what I got out of my chain extension so you should be golden! Looking great BTW!
And that rumor about me being hell on the Jeffco is false! On the last day of this Fall trip is when I unleash the demons on that block of aluminum! ;D
Had a run of bad luck like Carl said, but thanks to DS and Shawn @ Jeffco, we are now running generation 12 of this FNR. Lots of updates inside.. I think I was on gen 5 or 6.. Couple things in question yet but got to break stuff to find the problems if you want to help build it better I recon. Just got to stop doing that on the first day out!
I hope this one hold up cause 6th gear wheelies are soooooooooo much fun to watch lol lol
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And this now how many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ??? Sorry ,couldn't resist. It's not funny but you are one persistent guy!!!
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And this now how many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ??? Sorry ,couldn't resist. It's not funny but you are one persistent guy!!!
lol
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And this now how many $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ ??? Sorry ,couldn't resist. It's not funny but you are one persistent guy!!!
Dont ask, cause Enemy dont want to know. kick Plus he's single so he dont have to account for toy $$$$. ;D
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I havent looked lately, but pretty sure I didn't have to scroll 5ft to the right to see the total balance! rofl
This is a secret so don't tell anybody...Somebody picked up the tab on this last fail......But thinking from the last repair bill cost they still came out ahead.
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I hear it being called test to fail -fail to test :police:
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lets not use the word fail anymore lets go with a attitude all it's own lol
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Made a little bit of progress today.
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Looking good,paddles are reversed tho.
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Looking good,paddles are reversed tho.
He's got a Jeffco, so its ok. ;D
How wide are you?
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Oh ya, forgot about that.................. ;D
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Looking good,paddles are reversed tho.
Gunna see how beefy the reverse planetary in the Jeffco really is! ;D ;D
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Now that that has been mentioned enemy,DO NOT GO OUT AND TRY IT!!!!!!!!!!!!
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call shawn and find out if you have the latest mods and if not ask how much to get it right! but hey wait 3 weeks and enemy can tell you what he thinks ;D ;)
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where are the forward rods going to mount? how wide is the track width at this point? nice pics and looks like it's coming along
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Looking good,paddles are reversed tho.
No I was planning on going really fast backwards. It is like having front wheel drive better traction.
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call shawn and find out if you have the latest mods and if not ask how much to get it right! but hey wait 3 weeks and enemy can tell you what he thinks ;D ;)
I called him after we talked last time. $1600 + shipping. The guy that sold it to me claimed he had just got it back from there.
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where are the forward rods going to mount? how wide is the track width at this point? nice pics and looks like it's coming along
I forgot to measure but should be close to 80". The rear is 3" wider than the front. I ride a lot of two track so I am hoping to keep it near the track with of a truck.
I think I would be able to drive in-between your tracks.
The two forward links would mount to the middle rear vertical tube, similar to your car.
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No I was planning on going really fast backwards. It is like having front wheel drive better traction.
;D ;D ;D
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I tried to post this the other night but it didn't take.
I didn't get much time to do anything for the month of September. But figured I should show the progress thus far.
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At this stage there will be many days it seems like you work your butt off and nothing happened. We've all been there.Looking good.
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A few more pics
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looks good and not an exact copy but still close
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At this stage there will be many days it seems like you work your butt off and nothing happened. We've all been there.Looking good.
Ya, the part I hate is the running/figuring out all the wiring. That seems to take for ever.
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Plan well and it's not so bad. I usually START with a plan but it goes in the crapper soon after. LOL!!!!
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Well I got is standing on it's own feet to day. But it leans to the right side and I can't figure out why? The rear shock on that side I just filled with the replacement shock oil they sent me due to the shock breaking in shipping. Also these shock have stamped on them that 200 psi max (Sway Away 2.5" 18" travel). When do you measure that 200? In the add for these things they claim 50 - 500 psig? I had to put in 250 to get it to stand up.
I still don't like the lines of the rail since raising the roof looks like a crawler. It really needs a trunk wing to level the look out.
The big thing for the day was to roll out the rail and clean up the shop.
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Form follows function. You needed the extra roof height for safety reasons. It is what it is. After it is all said and done ,and a wing is in place,you'll like the look.
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to start call manufacturer and ask on psi for sure but you charge them with the wheels off the ground. you have pretty good leverage for 200 psi .
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I called Sway Away and yes it clearly indicates 200 psig max but according to the tech and the documents on the wed site it is good to 500 psi. He said that I should put the rail at ride height and then pressure up. Doing that it ended up being right around 200 psi.
So I took the shocks off and drained the fluid out of them. Than refilled them to the amount recommended for them. FYI Sway Away oil is 7 wt shock oil. I installed the shocks on the opposite side then they where before and it is better but still not the same on both sides. I guess I will have to disassemble the suspension and clean and make certain that something isn't rubbing or in a bind. Without the shock I could move both sides un and down by hand without issue. I can't think of anything else.
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Wheels off ground to get a true psi. And with new shocks and oil, some of the nitrogen will absorb. So a slight recharge will be necessary.
The low midrail on side of car is what makes it look top heavy. Had same issue on my old green car. When building this one didn't want the top heavy look so I angled midrail up more than DS does. In fact the wing trunk is pretty dang high. But I'm 6'4" and have 6" head Clearance so roof is tall, just doesn't look it, maybe. Crap I confused myself.
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I called Sway Away and yes it clearly indicates 200 psig max but according to the tech and the documents on the wed site it is good to 500 psi. He said that I should put the rail at ride height and then pressure up. Doing that it ended up being right around 200 psi.
So I took the shocks off and drained the fluid out of them. Than refilled them to the amount recommended for them. FYI Sway Away oil is 7 wt shock oil. I installed the shocks on the opposite side then they where before and it is better but still not the same on both sides. I guess I will have to disassemble the suspension and clean and make certain that something isn't rubbing or in a bind. Without the shock I could move both sides un and down by hand without issue. I can't think of anything else.
no...... wheels off the ground then set pressure. if it's not enough go a little more. no load on shocks wheels must be off the ground no backpressure on shock!!!!!!!!! don't care what the tech says cause this is the way fox and king air shocks are as well as marvin shaw!!!!!!!
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many techs are mostly low tech.
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Been a while since I posted any thing. Here are a couple of progress posts.
Radiator and Fan mounted.
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View of the rear end from the top. Got the axles back. Started figuring out the wiring harness.
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What the dash is looking like.
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Head lights, these are 2000 lumens part light and work great or great for $140. Ebay.
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Side panels, starting to look like a car.
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Been a while since I posted any thing. Here are a couple of progress posts.
Radiator and Fan mounted.
what is the aluminum container in front of the motor? I hope this fan placement works for you. I only say this because I tried this once and did not work, couldn't get 1 mile with out the motor running hot. nice pics!
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What the dash is looking like.
I like the dash work!! nice job ..............your rail is looking good
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I could only find 1 pic with a clear shot to show you but and this is only my opinion but I think you might need to add 2 more pieces of tube to the rear cradle support. from what I can see in the pic you have added all the bracing I would think you'll need except in one spot. looks good to btw! I know you have your muffler there and if you do add them you could even put a slight bend into them to clear the muffler imo.
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Side panels, starting to look like a car.
i like it and they always look better with skin!! lol
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what is the aluminum container in front of the motor? I hope this fan placement works for you. I only say this because I tried this once and did not work, couldn't get 1 mile with out the motor running hot. nice pics!
+1. There definitely needs to be a shroud around the fan and likely a duct channeling air to the radiator .
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I like the dash work!! nice job ..............your rail is looking good
+1! Gonna be sweet.
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what is the aluminum container in front of the motor? I hope this fan placement works for you. I only say this because I tried this once and did not work, couldn't get 1 mile with out the motor running hot. nice pics!
That is the fuel cell. I hope the radiator works as well. I still haven't made up my mind how to control the fan. Let the Hayabusa turn it on and off or just add a temp switch.
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I could only find 1 pic with a clear shot to show you but and this is only my opinion but I think you might need to add 2 more pieces of tube to the rear cradle support. from what I can see in the pic you have added all the bracing I would think you'll need except in one spot. looks good to btw! I know you have your muffler there and if you do add them you could even put a slight bend into them to clear the muffler imo.
Still working on this area. The muffler is bugging me coming out on one side. I still might move it to the center. TThan I can put brake lights and blinkers right there.
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what is the aluminum container in front of the motor? I hope this fan placement works for you. I only say this because I tried this once and did not work, couldn't get 1 mile with out the motor running hot. nice pics!
When you had this configuration where you running a fan as well?
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That is the fuel cell. I hope the radiator works as well. I still haven't made up my mind how to control the fan. Let the Hayabusa turn it on and off or just add a temp switch.
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That just requires more work on the wiring harness.
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How so.
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A temp switch connected to a relay only takes about 10 minutes to install. Figuring out swtch wire controls that and how to actually wire it out of the wire loom on the Hayabusa might take a while.
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You need ,IMO,the temp sender to be in the factory location on the engine. You can do it that way using it to trigger a relay. The busa ECM likes to know the engine temp though.
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When you had this configuration where you running a fan as well?
yes I ran a fan and shroud and with a small scoupe and was going to make a bigger one then gave up and put them behind the seat. now on hot days they would start to get hot but slow up and they cooled right down even with the headers wrapped. a 12" by 24" two pass two core radiator was used with 11" swirl fans. now a 16" by 28" 2 core 2 pass with 15" swirl fan might have done the job but don't know cause I started mounting them in the cage up high and poof .....no more problems, however I did go to the larger radiator and fan up in the cage too.
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That is the fuel cell. I hope the radiator works as well. I still haven't made up my mind how to control the fan. Let the Hayabusa turn it on and off or just add a temp switch.
you can use the factory circuit or what I like to use......enemy turned me on to these way back........http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-A-Lite-31163-Temp-Sensitive-Variable-Speed-Control-Fan-Controller,60533.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-A-Lite-31163-Temp-Sensitive-Variable-Speed-Control-Fan-Controller,60533.html) .......I have used these on my v-6 rail and current busa rail.
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You need ,IMO,the temp sender to be in the factory location on the engine. You can do it that way using it to trigger a relay. The busa ECM likes to know the engine temp though.
+1....... and/or just use the two wires that connected to the stock fan however they don't turn the fan on till they get hotter than I would like see. if you do this of course you will need to change out the fan fuse in the fuse box to the correct amp.
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you can use the factory circuit or what I like to use......enemy turned me on to these way back........http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-A-Lite-31163-Temp-Sensitive-Variable-Speed-Control-Fan-Controller,60533.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flex-A-Lite-31163-Temp-Sensitive-Variable-Speed-Control-Fan-Controller,60533.html) .......I have used these on my v-6 rail and current busa rail.
I use the factory sender to send the temp signal to the ecm. I use the above fan controller to actually run the fans. Works very well.
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when I've had the radiators built I have had them add an extra bung on the inlet side for the temp sensor that comes with the kit. I then take my heat gun and shoot the thermostat housing until I find 170* or 180* and turn the screw to set it in the on position. it turn the fan or in my v-6 case the fans, on at 60% so as to not shock load the system then on to 100% and keeps them running at 60% once you've shut the motor off for like 60 seconds. really nice system for the money imo! wasn't the factory temp switch in the radiator on the busa like most all the other sport bikes?
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I am not sure I got my engine from a guy that had it installed in a rail. He already chopped up the wiring harness so it is hard to tell what is supposed to be there and what he did. I guess I will get a bigger radiator.
thanks for the help.
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ya it sucks when someone else cuts up a harness unless they do a clean job! you can always try the radiator there first, I am just saying I wasn't able to make that location work and did try the bike radiator once as well and that was no where big enough for the load lol. I did use the stock oil cooler on my current rail and used the stock radiator fan to cool the oil cooler for good measure. I used the factory part of the harness and the temp sensor connector to a switch to manually activate the fan to the oil cooler. get a reversible switch so the hot air blows at you and makes a nice space heater when you stop lol
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Here are the body tabs I got from Polyperformance. They are great. 1/4 - 20 threads already cut in them. The large flat head screws are nice as well.
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wasn't the factory temp switch in the radiator on the busa like most all the other sport bikes?
Yes
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New Radiator. It is a TriCore for a Mustang GT. I built the fan shrod. THe soft mount for it where a pain but it is in.
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That should be cool enough. Instal looks good too, even the red. ;D
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NICE
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looks good and better than the other. let us/me know how it works out for you mounted on the side like that. i hope it works for you cause it didn't for me. i like the red fans....where did you get them? what size and cfm and amp draw?
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80w at twelve volts is about 7 amps.
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80w at twelve volts is about 7 amps.
I'm thinking the 12.7 is for both fans? But then I wonder if cfm is too?
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11" fan would have to be for both I would think. my single fan is 16" and
"2100 CFM AIR MOVEMENT, 3150 MAX RPM, 16 AMP CURRENT DRAW" I copied and pasted that from the site.
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7 amps approx each @ full amp draw. 2 fans ,under full load would be 14 amps. Fans don't actually run under full load though so 12.7 total for both running sounds reasonable.
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It is per fan. I am just skeptical of Ebay spec's or better yet the Chinese place that sold it to the guy on Ebay. I will hook up the clamp meter when I go back to the shop and find out what the max amp draw is.
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It is per fan. I am just skeptical of Ebay spec's or better yet the Chinese place that sold it to the guy on Ebay. I will hook up the clamp meter when I go back to the shop and find out what the max amp draw is.
LMAO LMAO LMAO rofl isn't that the truth!!
as long as you get plenty of air flow to it, I think the fans will work well!
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the fans pull around 4.66 to 4.98 amps at 12.3 volts directly connected to the battery so some where around 57.3 watts a little shy of the 80W on the sticker. the two together pulled 9.98 amps or 122.75 Watts.
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Here are the additional supports I added to the rear. I figured taking them back to a place that is triangulated would be stronger than up to the rear main hoop. I also added a piece of half inch the front and rear to make handy tie down points in the case that the car actually ever makes it out of the shop some day. (Usually we are at Glamis right now.)
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looks good! looks like your rods will clear the tube too but I am sure you tried that already to be sure. I always welded them on the way I do just so there wasn't only 2 but welds holding the cradle on and for side support for the upper radius rod tube. plus it looks good lol
now get it done and get some video lol
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Looking good!!
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Well this is actually a good sign. We had a disaster with Bondo it is so cold the stuff wouldn't dry for three days. Had to take it all off the start over with way more hardener then it is supposed to have. We should be able to take it to the paint booth tomorrow.
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Bondo? :police: :police:
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never heard of the stuff.
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what's the bondo for?
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I figured that would get some questions. If the car isn't going to be power coated I will clean up the welds with that evil stuff called bondo
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ff: gg:
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hmmmmmmmm well do you ever plan on powdercoating it? if you answer yes i will tell you why i ask.
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A little cosmetic bondo is ok.
DO NOT GRIND THE WELDS
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^^^^^^^^^
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A little cosmetic bondo is ok.
DO NOT GRIND THE WELDS
unless you want to powder coat someday then you'll play hell getting it all out even with sand blasting it. I have seen this first hand, not on one of my rails but a close friend. and what's wrong with knocking the edge off a weld and/or laying a small pass back over it?
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A little cosmetic bondo is ok.
DO NOT GRIND THE WELDS
That is why it do it.
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unless you want to powder coat someday then you'll play hell getting it all out even with sand blasting it. I have seen this first hand, not on one of my rails but a close friend. and what's wrong with knocking the edge off a weld and/or laying a small pass back over it?
Ya, powder is great but this one will be paint. After going thru the work to paint it I am to lazy to strip it and powder it. Just sell it and start over. I already of a list of things I would change but that always happens.
When you do the calculation for the weld strength you assume that the weld is a triangle because that is where all of the strength is. So there isn't a big concern in knocking the tops of the weld down. My problem is once I have a grinder in hand it is hard to stop. You know that looks good but maybe a little more would be better,...Uuuuuhhhh.
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oh I hear ya
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Good welds look good painted. I wire wheel only. If it needs grinding down, I cut it down and lay another pass over. There was company importing some cars with bondo welds to cover the crap. Cracked and fell out.
I painted mine. Self etching primer after complete wipe down with xylene. 3 coat of hammertone paint shot with a gun. Touch up with rattlecan. They sell it both ways.
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Grinding welds is bad practice. Carl is right.
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Putting mine together bare for now. Never built one from scratch before and figure ill probably need to make a change or 2. Been wiping down with a clp for now to slow down rust. Tear down later and powder coat
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use this stuff on it. I am going to on this build.
http://picklex20.com/ (http://picklex20.com/)
read pros and cons here
http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=293032&hl=rust (http://www.glamisdunes.com/invision/index.php?showtopic=293032&hl=rust)
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good results so far on glamis
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Grinding welds is bad practice. Carl is right.
grinding yes but dressing isn't bad imo.
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I went ahead and bought some Picklex20. I guess I'll be DTS guinea pig on this one.
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Oh the fun, spray, wash, sand, wash, spay, sand, wash....
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Sounds like you are doing a show car.Mine are just well enuff done to beat the shit out of. LOL!!!!
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I guess old habits die hard, but I still don't like doing it.
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I spent hours staring at Enemy's build pictures the one of the frame after powder in particular so I guess is only fair for me to post one as well.
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I wish I could claim these welds but they are MC's.
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Damn thats some color!!! Even got the jack stands I see. The clean and reassemble can be slow. I like to make it look as good as possible, right before you go out and get it dirty. Monty make some good looking pieces, I wanted one but didn't want to spend the money for a 1 off since I was going to turbo.
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It's fricken amazing the number of pieces go into just a frame.
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YES!! Gunna be a sea of red! Looking awesome!!!
Dont leave it anywhere in our state unattended.. Someone will slap Husker stickers all over it and go whip shitters around the goal-post at Memorial Stadium ;D
Cant wait to see it all together man!
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nice avatar,enemy
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looks good and ya there are a crap ton of parts lol
so you going to make a run to little sahara ok may 26th?
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Love to, you guys can tell me all the things I got wrong maybe tweak the power commander. We will see if I am still employed at that time.
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Always great to look at a new build. Sometimes you get a, "hey I like that!", too. Doesnt look like too far of a drive for you.
Get back to assembly. ;D
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we won't tell you what you did wrong we will point out what you did right though rofl rofl
if you can it will be a blast as always and good to see other members especially if their rail looks like mine lol
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COme on up if you can!!!!!
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A couple more pictures
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looks good!
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SO I had some time to kill at the house after the new gear showed up.
I forgot how hot these thing get when running. :-*
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If the chain is long enough ,the heat is a non concern thing.....................
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We did get the Jeffco in today.
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I also most used the entire length of chain I got from Fabr for the chain. I is damn close the length in a street bike.
the chain breaker was missing a couple of part took most of the day to figure that out.
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?? What was missing? Been a couple of years since I used it but thought everything was there. Sorry!
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I am not complaining. Maybe I don't know how to use it. I think I need the C08-135H. I found and other chain breaker in the shop that had a flaring tool and it worked fine.
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Are you talking about the piece that rounds over the rivet? Whatever it is I'll look in toolbox where it was kept and see if it's there. Sorry!
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Ya, I think that is the piece missing, once I switch over to the other flaring tool it went a lot easier.
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Hmmmmm,I'll look. IIRC the handle is hollow,did you look in it?
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Ya, there was a few parts in there.
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Its coming together real nice!
So have you picked a spot at Little Sahara campground yet? Always great to meet new peeps with a new ride.
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+1 have ya yet? lol
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Dueces Wild! DAMMIT!!!!! LOL!!!!!!!!
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lol
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I got a few more parts installed.
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I really hate welding Aluminum but at least I am down to just needing one more part and that is it.
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Coming together nicely! And DS thought I could get a 30 pk in my wing trunk, pretty sure we could just mount a tap on yours. ;D
Almost test drive time.
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Looking good. One thing is a sure deal,you will never need to change the fuel filter element and I'm also pretty sure Al Capone's body is in the wing trunk. ;D ;D
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Coming together nicely! And DS thought I could get a 30 pk in my wing trunk, pretty sure we could just mount a tap on yours. ;D
Almost test drive time.
lol lol ya that is one big trunk! looks good though! I like the filter. the pic of the scissor jack......what are you doing with that in the pic? just a place to take one with ya?
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have ya bolted a seat in to see how well you will be able to see over the dash? I know I will raise my seats for my hood.
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Coming together nicely! And DS thought I could get a 30 pk in my wing trunk, pretty sure we could just mount a tap on yours. ;D
Almost test drive time.
30 Pack, hell I am planning for a his and hers pony KEGS!!!! with a 30 pack in the middle.
Ya, I could get a body in there.
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lol well there will be a trail of men behind you with solo cups if you do!! rofl trailing clear back to the gate rofl carl will be the one with 4 cups lol ;) the only way I'll drink one is if I can sit in your lawn chair and watch you work while tasting one rofl rofl just ask carl rofl rofl
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Ya, I haven't yet figured out how to get it in the trailer but it is nice to know I can get some supervision if I need it.
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Ds is a real good supervisor, he actually has ideas he will share to help fix the problem unlike many supervisors. They want to check my center console for beer at gate, but never ask about wing. LMAO
Realy diggin the color, gonna leave the alum raw? Looks slick contrasting to paint!!.
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someone posted a pic I took of carl working on his rail now somehow the tops of my feet were in the pic so everyone knew I was sitting down watching carl work lol the rail is looking good
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I like the look too. On other cars I have taken a wire well to the and brushed it looks really good but it doesn't last so I am planning to do a wrap like DS.
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dunebound took a grinder to his then had them powdercoated with transparent powder and they look really good!!!
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Didn't know clear powder was an option.
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Clears,translucents,hammers,wrinkles,sky is the limit.
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dune used the red translucent over the grinder marks and it really looks good! fabbr is right the sky is the limit with the powder anymore
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I did know there where so many options for powders.
The building has been slow these days. I did get the wheels on it. Looks a lot better. With spring I have had to start a couple of those other projects. Built a violin for my mother and Chicken coop for the wife. She has a few other project for me as well.
I have been trying to get a wrap from Dan Martin but haven't got a thing done for a week on the car.
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one day at a time!!
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A couple of pics. I still need to adjust the suspension so I haven't put Nitrogen in yet.
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Starting to come together now Crazy. Look good.
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Looking good!! I really Like the raw alum look with that paint. Time to get out the buffer. ;D
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Thanks. I like it to but it doesn't say that way. I have a wrap coming for it.
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Well I have been busy doing little things like wiring but figured I would post a couple of pictures. The wrap turn out OK but is really easy to scratch. This is the first time I have put one on and it did come out that well. I have enough left to redo the dash. It would go on fine but when I would tak off the protective layer it would pull back off. Yes I pulled it off at 180 degrees. Anyway I think it looks OK from far.
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A coupled more angles
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A coupled more angles
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Last one
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NM DMV tells me that it will be two months before they can grace me with an appointment to get it registered. bs1 :police: Via Nueva Mexico.
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2 months,damn. Looks very nice with the wrap. DS ,I think,clear coats his and works well.
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Ya I think he goes with three coats. I figured it I did that it would look worse given all the winkles
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I didn't notice any wrinkles
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it does look good in the pics!! i do clear coat mine and i use a liquid spray for the panels when i put them on. it's basically like windex but called right stuff spary. takes longer to work the water bubbles out but if you squeegee it as you lay it down it cuts way down on that. wipe the panels clean 2 or 3 times with alcohol , i use denatured but i suppose all would work. IF THERE IS ANY debris on the panel it will come right through!! 2 or 3 coats of clear work well and do hide small imperfections.
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any video's of it running and driving?
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No because I can't get a plate for it I have only been driving around the ranch.
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driving it around the ranch is running and driving may not be all out but still running and driving ;D ;D
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I finally got it registered, apparently the State of New Mexico no longer issues plates for OHV's. I hope that isn't a problem in Glamis. I am supposed to get a sticker in the mail.
I got it weighted and like those everything I make it is heavy 1917 lbs. with a mostly full tank of gas.
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:o :o :o Looks like I cant call Fabr's ride fat ass no longer. rofl rofl
With that weight, you gonna need that deep gearing offroad. No for some dirty pics!!!
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Nope,only need that deep a gear for the sand...........................
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what tube wall thickness did you go with?
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It is 120 wall
Took it for a ride in the sand and it popped a radiator hose. I had notice that the hayabusa gauge was reading hot being a few hundred feet from the camper I turn and drove there just before we got there pop. The after market gauge is just before where it popped and was reading 150. The oil pressure was pegged when it popped as well. Could the water pump not be working? Does it even have a water pump? As always thanks for the help.
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Yes on the pump. You have likely got air trapped in the cooling system. Need to purge ALL air from it and your trobles are over. Where is your temp sender located?
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lol that is what i made my main frame out of so now i have to wonder what mine actually weighs lol
hard to tell on the hose but last time i saw something like that it was an air pocket in the system so it wasn't cooling. the temp diff's on the different guages is strange. your pump could be out but you need to find out what kind of pump it is first. they can be a real pain to get all the air bled out of, there is a hose coming off the thermostat housing that is to aid or i use to aid in bleeding the air out. your thermostat could be stuck closed as well. easy to tell, pull that hose that is attached to the top of the thermostat housing top, pull it off the radiator and see if anite freeze comes out while the engine is running. if there is then the pump is working, working correctly is to be determined though.
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i have never taken a water pump apart on a sport bike so i am not sure if it is a rubber impeller or gear.
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also did you plumb the radiator correctly? the hose off the water pump to the lower outlet of the radiator? just asking cause that could cause a problem too. i agree with fabbr that what you describe is more likely a trapped air pocket.
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Thanks a ton for the quick response. I have to admit I have plumbed it one way and them the other assuming I had it wrong the first time both times I have popped a hose.. So the hose come off of the bottom of the engine should go to the top or bottom of the radiator?
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It did seem to drive OK for the short time we got to drive. It might be a little low on the gears but it did pretty well. I don't think I am going to change it. I have to get used to shifting been a while since I drove a sand car that had to be shifted.
The front end needs more dampening. I wish it was like RC cars where you just go to a thicker oil.
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Top outlet goes to top of rad.Water pump receives water from bottom rad hose.
Have you seen that they have RC shocks with true shim stacks now? Tuning RC cars suspension with more than just springs and oil viscosity! Them boys are really coming along. I have a buddy that is just ate up with the RC stuff.
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with 2.0 fox air shocks you can add up to an additional 30 cc oil in 10 cc increments to help with dampening. once you have added all 300 cc's and haven't got it where you want it then you pull them a part and drain the 30 cc out and revalve to slower rates and start over. i am not sure about sway away though, you would have to call and ask them. as far as your radiator.....the hose coming off the thermostat housing goes up to the top inlet of the radiator and the bottom outlet of the radiator goes down to the water pump. i always have my radiators built for my app and motor so i have bungs welded in my radiators for things like bypass's and temp sensors on the inlet sides. i hook the burp line that come off the top of the thermostat housing to my inlet side of the radiators to help get the air out. fabbr is right if you get an air pocket trapped in the block it will be a pain to get out. i would change the thermostat to be sure that isn't it and while you have it out drill a 1/8" hold through some part of it to let air and water bleed by before it opens. it won't hurt anything and some remove the thermostats all together.
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KEEP the stat. The bypass hole/s in the stat are a good idea but not an absolute need.
While we're at it,forget all the BS about water wetters and such. Pure distilled water with just enough antifreeze to keep from freezing is your best bet for coolant.Use as little AF as you can. It takes a very low concentration to provide corrosion protection and the less used the better the cooling system will work.Just be sure to use enough to provide freeze protection where you live . Forget the 50/50 rule unless you live where it gets COLD.
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BTW,those new RC shocks with adjustable shim stacks cost about 20 bux compared to our shocks at 300-1000 bux a corner. Maybe I should have taken up RC offroading............................
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Thanks, my son and I have been racing RC10B5s and RC10SB's for the last year. It is a blast, I can tell you that the parts are cheaper but they turn into a money pit just the same.
Sounds like I have the radiator plumb correctly. I will put a bleeder in the thermostat housing.
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I bought a vacuum fill setup to get away from the hassles of bleeding the air out. Works like a charm. Something like this one works just fine.
http://www.amazon.com/Radiator-Cooling-System-Vacuum-Refill/dp/B0081N522E There are many more to choose from.
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so have you got back on it and got the bubble out yet?
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I just got back from Glamis. I was cold this year so there wasn't as many people. THe last day we where there a group of strippers moved it next door.
I got the issues with the cooling system figured out with you guys help. THANKS!
When I got there I new the clutch had got a little soft so I figured I better bleed it. Short story the clutch had broke. I have yet to fully take it apart but the whole housing has broke.
I was able to drive around. It went straight out Oldsmobile or anything I it pointed it at. That was a first for me anyway. It doesn't want to pull a wheelie though. It would have been a ton better if the clutch worked but I had fun. We still had a RZR (got both in a 38ft toy hauler).
The chain now has some sag in it. How much still it needs to be tightened back up?
I also got the specs from SwayAway and how much oil can be added so helpful that will help with the front end being to soft.
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I just got back from Glamis. I was cold this year so there wasn't as many people. THe last day we where there a group of strippers moved it next door.
I got the issues with the cooling system figured out with you guys help. THANKS!
When I got there I new the clutch had got a little soft so I figured I better bleed it. Short story the clutch had broke. I have yet to fully take it apart but the whole housing has broke.
I was able to drive around. It went straight out Oldsmobile or anything I it pointed it at. That was a first for me anyway. It doesn't want to pull a wheelie though. It would have been a ton better if the clutch worked but I had fun. We still had a RZR (got both in a 38ft toy hauler).
The chain now has some sag in it. How much still it needs to be tightened back up?
I also got the specs from SwayAway and how much oil can be added so helpful that will help with the front end being to soft.
:wwp:
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I just got back from Glamis. I was cold this year so there wasn't as many people. THe last day we where there a group of strippers moved it next door.
I got the issues with the cooling system figured out with you guys help. THANKS!
When I got there I new the clutch had got a little soft so I figured I better bleed it. Short story the clutch had broke. I have yet to fully take it apart but the whole housing has broke.
I was able to drive around. It went straight out Oldsmobile or anything I it pointed it at. That was a first for me anyway. It doesn't want to pull a wheelie though. It would have been a ton better if the clutch worked but I had fun. We still had a RZR (got both in a 38ft toy hauler).
The chain now has some sag in it. How much still it needs to be tightened back up?
I also got the specs from SwayAway and how much oil can be added so helpful that will help with the front end being to soft.
And you didn't extend your stay and maybe something else as well?
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In a couple of posts guys have asked for pictures or videos of the car running. This being the first time to Glamis with the new car. My wife was in charge of the camera. Yes her got video of the car going up Olds for the first time. But she parked a quarter mile away and you have to squint to even see the car much less see how the suspension is working.
Carl I can see were you are coming from, but see the camera issues I was already having?