turbo 1300 to turbo 2300 conversion

[fabr]

One more thing,I am not a fan of those greasers. Ditch them and drill/tap the cv body for a zerk. Much better for the cv bolts. Gee,I'm being an ass aren't I? 

[Punkur67]

Something like these work great. I have had a craftsman one for years. Very nice to make sure you have equal angles on tubes in the car too.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10-in-Multi-Function-Standard-Digital-Level-THD9403/205999357?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|google|&mid=syrjdvt4k|dm_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_50250225219_pkw__pmt__product_205999357_slid_&gclid=Cj0KEQiA56_FBRDYpqGa2p_e1MgBEiQAVEZ6-06IX3qLlQK6loUTCWmQF_qP92jp6EmjFiWD6Ldw0JUaAnp68P8HAQ

First thing I'd do is ditch that POS inclinometer. No offense meant but I have been bitten by those POS before.I have a couple in the tool box but I only use them to get a rough approximation.Get a decent digital and recheck. AN example would be one time I was bolting the rear arms on and used one. They just did not look right. Both sides visually appeared to lean out. WTH? I got out the digital and did some investigating. They did indeed lean out about 3 degrees according to the digital. I then went about checking out the POS's. Ended with one have a bogus scale and the others pivot was off center and did not swing correctly. The v groove on the edge was not parallel with the base on one as well. Before you throw in the towel,get a digital. Even a HF digital is better than what you are using,usually. Does you phone have an inclinometer app? If so I'd even trust it more than what you are using. That is where I'd start before I sent the cv's back and went with EMPI "stuff".

[dsrace]

Now,why are you using plunging cv's in the first place?  I assume you are designing the a arms with near zero plunge?

i checked the pass side and have only 1/16" plunge and i really thought about drilling the cv housings but had already set spacing for the greaser plates. i asked to return these and buy non plunge. they do actually run cooler anyways. just thought i would try the plunging in case i was off on spacing. plus they were cheaper lol $120 each vs $285 for the fixed

[dsrace]

Something like these work great. I have had a craftsman one for years. Very nice to make sure you have equal angles on tubes in the car too.
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Husky-10-in-Multi-Function-Standard-Digital-Level-THD9403/205999357?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|google|&mid=syrjdvt4k|dm_mtid_8903tb925190_pcrid_50250225219_pkw__pmt__product_205999357_slid_&gclid=Cj0KEQiA56_FBRDYpqGa2p_e1MgBEiQAVEZ6-06IX3qLlQK6loUTCWmQF_qP92jp6EmjFiWD6Ldw0JUaAnp68P8HAQ

thanks i will check one out at home depot

[dsrace]

One more thing,I am not a fan of those greasers. Ditch them and drill/tap the cv body for a zerk. Much better for the cv bolts. Gee,I'm being an ass aren't I? 

lol nope just yourself lol and i already have the longer bolts and spacing set up for them

[dsrace]

what about these?

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Protractor-Inclinometer-Backlight-Magnetic/dp/B00WQLHG2G/ref=sr_1_1/167-8247676-2214637?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487735818&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=digital+angle+finder&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Calculated-Industries-7434-AccuMASTER-Inclinometer/dp/B0148M7P4O?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKOHFALUJCKC3KXQ&tag=bdyahoo-desk-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0148M7P4O&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-angle-gauge-95998.html

[fabr]

i checked the pass side and have only 1/16" plunge and i really thought about drilling the cv housings but had already set spacing for the greaser plates. i asked to return these and buy non plunge. they do actually run cooler anyways. just thought i would try the plunging in case i was off on spacing. plus they were cheaper lol $120 each vs $285 for the fixed

Remember that the fixed cv's still have plunge. The axle can freely plunge in the star. Just use a clip on the upper cv/trans side. You would have at minimum an inch or so of plunge. Honestly,if it were me there would be no decision to be made and non plunge it is. Yes, quite a price diff but I firmly believe they will save you money in the long run. Less maintenance,heat,thrust load to the trans side case bearings,etc..

[dsrace]

agree and already proved the heat part in the last 5 years even the guys at rcv were surprised i kept track of temps on those cv's....have to ask because i used clips on both end for when i bottomed my suspension out. do you only use a clip on trans side? i know you have diff axles and already told them i would ship back and exchange with more cash for fixed because i would like to set max at 28* safely and only way to do that is with fixed imo. i took temps on mine with them set a max of 35* for that 5 years. yes diff tq load then i will be putting to them in the future but angle is the heat with cv's!

[Carlriddle]

Are you testing them dry?  I know that makes a diff in how the spin too.  If they sent ya 10 for the price of 4 then they should upgrade ya to non plunge for free for being a nice guy. lol.

But with A arms, I'd go non plunge too never look back, only money...  They will put in grease fittings I believe when ya order.  Spacer/greaser are 3/8", so just shorten the tabs a bit.  Cause I'm sure you only tack welded, right? 

[fabr]

agree and already proved the heat part in the last 5 years even the guys at rcv were surprised i kept track of temps on those cv's....have to ask because i used clips on both end for when i bottomed my suspension out. do you only use a clip on trans side? i know you have diff axles and already told them i would ship back and exchange with more cash for fixed because i would like to set max at 28* safely and only way to do that is with fixed imo. i took temps on mine with them set a max of 35* for that 5 years. yes diff tq load then i will be putting to them in the future but angle is the heat with cv's!

yesUnnecessary.

[fabr]

Non plunge cv's make a lot less heat due to the parallel tracks vs the angled tracks of a plunging cv.

[dsrace]

Are you testing them dry?  I know that makes a diff in how the spin too.  If they sent ya 10 for the price of 4 then they should upgrade ya to non plunge for free for being a nice guy. lol.

But with A arms, I'd go non plunge too never look back, only money...  They will put in grease fittings I believe when ya order.  Spacer/greaser are 3/8", so just shorten the tabs a bit.  Cause I'm sure you only tack welded, right?

tack welded until the fixed cv worked then fully welded and didn't know they would drill the cv for me. the greaser plate basically 1/4" thick and i did not grease the cv but it has plenty of what smells like gun oil they cam with plus i sprayed some wd40 while i was trying it. the prob is it keeps trying to roll over at that angle which it shouldn't do that.

[dsrace]

Non plunge cv's make a lot less heat due to the parallel tracks vs the angled tracks of a plunging cv.

correct and  i told rcv that i had checked my fixed cv's at 35* about a dozen times for heat and that the hottest i ever saw was 175* on the outters . those were the f150 cv's but they had a wind block were the uppers were wide open so i always wondered if that was part of it.  the interesting part was they said that was impressive as they have seen many utv cv's operating at extreme angles hitting 300* and melting because of it. ya know they didn't want to go wider just taller lol

[dsrace]

so they asked me to try a plunging at the trans and fixed at wheel. so i did tonight. the plunging are in a box and going ups back to rcv tomorrow and fixed are going to head this way. they do not even work at 26* they are at 27* in the vid based on what both inclinometers say. i did order a digital one but will be a few days before it shows. it cannot be the way i am setting them up they must have put to large a ball in them or machined wrong.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1vRWVjzLlik&feature=youtu.be

[dsrace]

once i get this side complete i can make the other