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Is it mounted on a spring loaded arm, some kinda nylon stuff like a skateboard wheel?In the mean time, welcome!!And We like pics, easier than reading.
Dude, your in El Cajon. Drive over to Kaman and have them match them up. Any type of sealed bearing they have will work.Edit, Just looked it up, they are downtown now. If you don't want the drive, Mcmaster Carr and have them delivered to your door. This is My go to choice now that I am in BFE with extremely limited options.
Do you have the bearing number for what you have now?
well i hope you add the parts i emailed you a link too a last week as well as that will help keep it in place. also if you are going to have new roller made then i would suggest choosing a larger od bearing so it isn't spinning as fast which will help increase the life of the bearing.
just went and looked and he is from indiana and named larry with a 2004 turbo busa ssc rail. this was his question " Hi Brian,Thank you for your reply. Below are pictures of the chain tensioner I am trying to replace. Besides needing the below two components bearings and the roller I really need to design some sort of method to keep the tensioner from sliding down when tighten in place. The current Larry Short Sandcar OEM system uses only the bolt tightness to hold the tensioner in place. Sure you can over tighten the bolt to secure it from moving but that results in a drag on the roller wheel and that makes heats and I think caused the bearing over heat and to fail. I really again thank you for any suggestions on a fix for my problem."this was my answer " https://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=71https://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=182https://www.midwestcontrol.com/series.php?id=143i would use something along the lines of one of these on the outside of each side and run your bolt through it. you will need to cut a couple of pieces of 90* channel and cut two slotted holes in it and weld it to those tabs. then take you delran roller and have someone with a lathe turn it smooth again where the chain left indentions in it. they are probably there because that bearing started to lock up. i don't not know why larry set a chain tensioner up that way but he did on several models. in the pic it doesn't look like you have the clearance to the motor to run that chain straight or i would say remove a link and slot 2 of the motor mount holes and use the motor for adjustment. you really should'nt need more than 3/16" slot on the motor mount tab holes and anymore than that and the chain needs replaced. a larger bearing would be a huge improvement as well too " he included pics as well