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Glad you found the source, sometimes those issues can hide and drive one crazy.3" toe out is huge.That is 3" total at 110". 2" @ 110"on one side and 1" on the other. That is approx 1/2 degree on the one side and almost 1 degree on the other. Not as bad as it sounds. If i read that correct you had 2" on one side alone . I can see what it did. The info you pasted is good info and i do understand the in is always best. Not always best,depends on the use the vehicle is intended for. Not just in the rear either. Now in my case, I have a different scenero. My frame spring a bit the first time I cut the back off to covert out from the busa. It did again this time as well. Not as bad but some. I don't have the ability to pull it back square either. So as of right now, the trans/suspension cradle is centered on the tube under the seat but its rocked. Not only did it spring torsionaly, it went rt a tad. The back end doesn't track true with the front, off by 2". I can still align to the center of the rail, it will handle fine but I need to build a new chassis at some point. Do you remember where you set the rear alignment last on initial? Would be interesting to know how much settling took place. I THOUGHT I had set it to 1"@110" or just under 1/2 degree.That big ass tree I hooked probably had something to do with it . The 1/2 degree side did pretty well but the almost 1 degree side sucked.Got the alignment finished last night. Not shooting for perfect as I know it will settle and require another. So I am dead 0, we will see which way it goes. Ready for axles and shocks. Go the tail pipe wrapped and painted last night as well. The fact the motor hasn't been started in 3 years concerns me.
I hope it gets shipped to you in time with out a drive to AZ! No shit.I was only measuring mine 6' in front of the rear axles. The back end of my frame is twisted and crooked to the sum of 1.5*, twisted and prob 3* kicked over to the right. Damn!!!That part is mostly from being cut apart twice. Hitting the trees prob didn't have anything to do with it I had to cut down 12 cv bolts last night. The cv flanges on the hv are as tight to the case as they could get. There's a warning in the info that came with it and its obvious. If your cv bolt sticks out past the cup 3/16" it will bottom out on the seal. I made sure I have .125" gap ..... one bt one last night. Double checked all jamb nuts and a arm bolts were tight. Should be ready for axles assy tonight.
I bought my trans cv bolts from Jimco Racing just before they sold out. Custom made just for Jimco by Reid ( https://reidproducts.com/?page=motorsports&nav=closed). Exact length overall,exact placing of threads and spline drive heads. I forget now but they were $$$$$.The owner of Jimco saw a post of mine on RaceDeezrt and offered them to me. I cringed at the $$$$$ but have not been disappointed with them.
Quote from: dsrace on October 03, 2024, 06:11:00 AMI hope it gets shipped to you in time with out a drive to AZ! No shit.I was only measuring mine 6' in front of the rear axles. The back end of my frame is twisted and crooked to the sum of 1.5*, twisted and prob 3* kicked over to the right. Damn!!!That part is mostly from being cut apart twice. Hitting the trees prob didn't have anything to do with it I had to cut down 12 cv bolts last night. The cv flanges on the hv are as tight to the case as they could get. There's a warning in the info that came with it and its obvious. If your cv bolt sticks out past the cup 3/16" it will bottom out on the seal. I made sure I have .125" gap ..... one bt one last night. Double checked all jamb nuts and a arm bolts were tight. Should be ready for axles assy tonight.Sounds like you are in good shape for LS. Nothing like last minute finishes.