DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Automotive Powered Off Road (AKA: Buggys, Jeeps, Trucks, Etc,Etc. ) => Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: fabr on July 27, 2009, 07:28:39 PM
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Thanks Fast for these pics-very helpful.
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I'm sure that there are many other details about 930's and cv's in general.Anyone want to post their favorite info or tips?
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Make shure you mark your axles driver inner outer, and passenger. and most of the time the outer splines get smashed up a little from hitting the stub axle. You can just slide both the cvs off the inner side instead of pounding the outers off.
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Make shure you mark your axles driver inner outer, and passenger. and most of the time the outer splines get smashed up a little from hitting the stub axle. You can just slide both the cvs off the inner side instead of pounding the outers off.
Axles should always be kept LEFT and RiGHT. They twist with power and if you reverse them then they will want to untwist. When they do that they will break. Do like Punk said and mark them LEFT enter to trans and LEFT outer to wheel. Do the right side the same.
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Axles should always be kept LEFT and RiGHT. They twist with power and if you reverse them then they will want to untwist. When they do that they will break. Do like Punk said and mark them LEFT enter to trans and LEFT outer to wheel. Do the right side the same.
true.... and yes they will break.....
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And it will happen quickly IF you have enough power otherwise it might take a bit but it will likely happen. We sell lots of #2 phillips bits for driving screws. We have found that if a person will use it just to drive screws and keeps a "special" bit just for removing a screw that the bits will last MUCH longer for the contractor. If they use the same bit to install/remove the bit will fail soon after a screw is removed. Same thing happens with most tools/parts used that transmit torque.
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And it will happen quickly IF you have enough power otherwise it might take a bit but it will likely happen. We sell lots of #2 phillips bits for driving screws. We have found that if a person will use it just to drive screws and keeps a "special" bit just for removing a screw that the bits will last MUCH longer for the contractor. If they use the same bit to install/remove the bit will fail soon after a screw is removed. Same thing happens with most tools/parts used that transmit torque.
truly? Is that for real?
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Sorry if I sound like im doubting you, im not.. just amazed is all...
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Sorry if I sound like im doubting you, im not.. just amazed is all...
They don't call him King Smitie for nothing!!!!!!! ;D ;D
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It's true. No BS
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They don't call him King Smitie for nothing!!!!!!! ;D ;D
aww come on Fast, im not ALWAYS a mongrel.... just mostly.... ;D
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After working with transman I am clearancing my cvs, plus getting chromoly cages. I also have the 0.002 under size balls. Before and after pics.
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Looks good dune! 8) 8) 8)
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I don't think I've ever seen someone polish the outside surface of a star...............
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I don't think I've ever seen someone polish the outside surface of a star...............
By doing that, the stock star is freed up from the cage and you can get more angle out of the CV joint without it clicking and binding. 8) 8) 8)
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Polished grooves and good cages have always handled that problem for Me.
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;D ;D
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Polished grooves and good cages have always handled that problem for Me.
I agree with you 100% on good German made 930 joints, but these are China made 930 joints that need to be reworked over and that also need chromoly cages. BDKW1 you are coming apples and oranges, not the same joints. After doing every needed, Dunebound will have a good set of high angle joints. ;D ;D ;D
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Well, that clears it up, I have never used anyting other than GKN or Lobro with Fortin cages. That's the ticket if you plan on serious abuse.
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We're just making what he has work to get the most out of them. Instead of throwing them away and wasting money for now. ;D ;D ;D
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Make shure you mark your axles driver inner outer, and passenger. and most of the time the outer splines get smashed up a little from hitting the stub axle. You can just slide both the cvs off the inner side instead of pounding the outers off.
What keeps it from hitting the tranny or drive gear?
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What keeps it from hitting the tranny or drive gear?
The axles can hit the transaxle, but the reason they hit the stub axle alot is because that end of the axle is lower and gravity is pulling it down. 8) 8) 8)
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good info so let me ask a q with a twist, is there a right way and wrong way to clock a non plunge 930 where the ball and grooves are evenly spaced unlike the offset one in the plunging 930?
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should they be clocked like a uj end for end and side for side?
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Some will disagree quite strongly but the very nature of a cv(constant velocity) precludes any need to clock a CV unlike an oscillating speed UJ that must be clocked/timed.
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Some will disagree quite strongly but the very nature of a cv(constant velocity) precludes any need to clock a CV unlike an oscillating speed UJ that must be clocked/timed.
I don't "disagree strongly" but here is what I will say. It costs nothing to do it; and if you are in doubt, why not take the extra time to do it? You are out nothing, and in the vent it does matter, it cost you nothing.
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I don't "disagree strongly" but here is what I will say. It costs nothing to do it; and if you are in doubt, why not take the extra time to do it? You are out nothing, and in the vent it does matter, it cost you nothing.
I do plan on trying some diff combo's and it doesn't cost anything other than playing in grease!! lol I hate playing in grease. I know on plunging cv's they still have axle plunge on there own and do need to be clocked to play in the higher angles so i don't see why the np's would be any diff but was just wondering if anyone had some thoughts before I tried diff combo's. I figured ball for ball since there are no narrow and wide on np's. I was in a hurry putting them together so they could be a spline or 2 off but then again the slop in the balls and splines could account for that as well so backed off a spline or 2 could be just on the money as well so time will tell.
I do know the oscillation produced by uj's very well but still on a live rear end side to side need to be aligned as well as end for end on the axles and you won't feel any bind if your looking for it otherwise one wouldn't feel it. this same sensation is what I am feeling in these on pavement only.
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had to many irons in the fire so haven't got back to it yet but fast any idea's on right or wrong way to clock non plung cv's?
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Clocking them will do absolutely nothing other than make you feel good about doing it.
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That's always been my opinion.
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Clocking them will do absolutely nothing other than make you feel good about doing it.
That's always been my opinion.
This is on the non-plunging?
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There's the controversy. IMO it doesn't matter whether they are plunging or non plunging.If someone can explain to me how clocking the cv's of either kind will make a bit of difference I'll change my opinion. So far that has not happened. Uj's ,on the other hand MUST be properly timed/clocked/phased or whatever other name is given it.
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This is on the non-plunging?
Either or, doesn't matter. I have mixed non plunging an plunging on the same axle, clock that............
Far more important things to a CV are clearances, good cages and grease. These will actually make a noticeable difference.
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+1 ;)
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http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm (http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm)
just something i found out there
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http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm (http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm)
just something i found out there
Re post
OK gap, one thing you need to do is start reading at the very first of a thread. You just posted the same info that started this one. LMAO