I dont want to sound stupid

[Yummi]

I am stumped and I have looked for the answer on the K4 website and else where.  But I am stumped.

Bought an ignition switch - K4 - kind of a universal deal.  Four posts on the rear.  The three at the edges are marked BAT, IGN and ACC.  If I look real close the fourth post in the middle it is marked "ST" 

Down with most all of that.  Most.

Assume the ACC is trigger for relays, etc that run when the ignition is on and it will work in both "accessory" position as well as "run" position? 

The Bat seems self explanatory.

The IGN I assume runs the ignition system?

The ST or fourth post at the very rear / center is for the starter? 





Again, I have searched, but the closest I could find was this.....

[fabr]

I believe you have it right. Break out the ohm meter to check it out tho.

[dsrace]

st would be starter and acc should run in on pos and acc pos which that uni switch should do both as well. It looks like the one i used on my v-6 rail but cannot use on my current busa rail.      and I bought a real nice and expensive one before I figured that one out! oh well more parts in stock right 

[Lance-W]

Batt - is the big red wire from the battery or otherwise the power input to the switch.

Acc - is the power to everything except the coil.  On an old points ignition car this would let you listen to the radio without ruining the points.  Nowadays it lets you leave all the lights on without the engine running i.e. you can turn the engine off and everything else will stay powered up.

Ign - is the power wire to the coil or on a modern car the wire that is for the ignition.

ST - is the wire that actually makes the starter motor crank the engine over and will be the momentary contact that the switch springs back from when you turn it enough to crank the motor over.

[Yummi]

Thanks, 

Also found a Doorman switch that is identical and confirmed my hunch. 

Last trip out it had an issue starting.  No juice to the ignition side.  Sat at the top of Olds for about 1/2 hour waiting to be towed back to camp after everybody else in the group made a dune run, figured I would see if it started and Viola!  fired right up.  I hate electrical intermittent issues.  So brought it home a few hours early and started the rewire. 

Not a pretty sight up under the dash currently.  But that will change.  There is nothing but space under the hood.  For the life of me I don't understand why they opted for a rats nest under the dash.  I hate cleaning up wiring messes.  Guess on the bright side I will be able to sort them in the future? 

Current condition and soon to be reworked parts...

[fabr]

What? What's wrong with the rats nest? I bet the mouse liked it.

[Yummi]

But wait, there is more.  Lots of wire run through the body.  Lots of it with out a shield.  Think that is a recipe for disaster?  Or a recipe for a short or two? The one clear picture does not look too bad.  The darker one shows that apparently they ran out of conduit? 

I don't mine rewiring, but I hate sorting what goes where and what does what.  What can be cut, what must stay.   

[fabr]

Unfortunately many people have no clue as to how to reliably run wiring. Everyone has their own ideas . Some want the wiring hid as much as possible others,like myself, want it visible and easily accessible . Whatever way done though attention to details are important.

[Yummi]

Unfortunately many people have no clue as to how to reliably run wiring. Everyone has their own ideas . Some want the wiring hid as much as possible others,like myself, want it visible and easily accessible . Whatever way done though attention to details are important.

Yes on that.  It does not have to be ugly when visible.  Not a fan at all of wires through cage / body on off road car.  Sure makes for an easier fix of something does go wrong.

[fabr]

Copy that.

[Dunebound69]

Wiring turns into a rats nest all on its own. I sat down and planned out my rail before it was done being welded. Now with add ons since no rail is ever completed! I dare say its is getting bad in my car. 1 problem is getting ahold of different colors of wire. Back here all I found was blk, red, yellow, green, blue, brown. I sure as hell need more than that. And I used relays on almost everything to keep power runs short and out of my console. Under my guages is a nightmare. Ran out of space fast. I agree with not running it in the chassis tube. But I like to make sure it is protected as much as possiable.

[Yummi]

Well, one thing I am fast learning is that one should plan ahead.  With that in mind and the new fuse blocks installed I am trying to figure fuse sizes.  Few days left before that is a concern. 

So, on the set of 100 watt halogens, I figure 8.33 amp draw.  Would I then just double that to 15 amps for fuse size? 

On the set of 70 watt HIDs I know there is a start load but have no clue what that is?  How would I select fuse for that?  The run draw is 5.833 amps. 

I figure fan and fuel pump at 30a just because.  Ignition switch with ACC position and starter load?  (Well, not the full starter load but you know what I mean)

But what about the rest of the stuff I have no idea on the draw or start up?   



I will throw some progress pictures up later today.  My goal is really very simple.  Clean up the nest and make it so the next guy who works on it can figure it out without taking a wild ass guess.  I figure if I manage that it is wildly successful.  I can fully appreciate the nice pretty wire jobs now.

BTW, good thing work is a bit slow -  I figure I have 25 hours into this project so far and I have not tackled the tough "left side" with the gauge wiring and dash pull out yet.  Guessing a total of 60 hours for this project. 

[fabr]

Just a quick thought. Fuses/circuit breakers are to protect the wiring and not the item it is hooked to. What wiring sizes are you planning on?

[Yummi]

Most of it is 12 / 14.  Couple larger for high draw items.  Would you not have to consider draw to figure fuse size? 

[fastcorvairs]

Most of it is 12 / 14.  Couple larger for high draw items.  Would you not have to consider draw to figure fuse size?

One more thing to consider is using Auto reset fuze's.  I use them in all my stuff and have really good luck.  If something should ground in a fan or light they are like a breaker.  Off for the ground then back on in a minuet.  They will stay off as long as the ground is present. That way you don't have to carry a bunch of fuze's with you.  Works for me anyways.