Author Topic: WOODGAS  (Read 20649 times)

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SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #15 on: February 11, 2009, 05:33:43 AM »
I mentioned above on the gases that I'm after...here's the break down on them

Combustible fuel gases 20% carbon monoxide 
 19% hydrogen 
 1% methane 
 0.1% ethylene
Non combustible gases 9% carbon dioxide
 51% nitrogen

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #16 on: February 11, 2009, 05:49:54 PM »
MMMMMMM WOOODGAS
mMy boiler make lot's of cubic feet of WOODGAS every day...TOO BAD there is no effective way to harness and clean it...

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #17 on: February 11, 2009, 05:58:58 PM »
Allright I was just fookin with ya.....

But it is true...Big hungry makes tons of WOODGAS and It IS NOT feasable to harness and clean the tars out of it...




Here's a few pix of the case of my new reactor, I know it looks like a hunk of shit...But keep in mind it's all recycled, the reduction and the bell on the bottom are designed to aid in the downdraft of HOT  vapours,
Heat rises... So I'm ceating a loe pressure zone to increases the pulling effect...I still have to cut it back apart to install the ''tar ejectors''' and the ''Hot air intake'' I have a spine surgeon appt. tomarrow so prolly no progress

Offline Yummi

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #18 on: February 11, 2009, 06:27:22 PM »
I have a spine surgeon appt. tomarrow so prolly no progress

Hope that goes well for you...
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SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #19 on: February 15, 2009, 04:50:48 AM »
Thanks Yummi,
Went OK He ordered a couple more MRI's
The reactor is coming along slowly, I got the flange for the reduction built and welded on...NOW it's time to build the pre-heat manifold and air lines...It's hard to decide where the heat is going to be, Until after you burn it a few times...It's kinda like not painting your buggy until you've had it out and thrashed it a few times...
The reason this is important is A hot dry air creates a faster,dryer burn...Wood smoke is inherenty wet, so any thing I can do to crack the hydrogen/oxygen bond out of the water, is a huge bonus, Keep in mind that I have to seperate the water out of the gas before it goes to the motor...That's wasted fuel, and needs to be either tossed on the garden or re-injected as steam to the reactor...
Injecting steam is something I'll address later, I'm thinking 2 manifolds, a winsheild washer pump, and some tubing...But I'll have to burn it first to find the hottest point to mount the manifolds ;D
I'll get some pix today

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #20 on: February 15, 2009, 01:18:09 PM »
Here's a couple of pix,
the 1st 2 are of the manifold...Where it is at now isn't it's final spot, but close, the last one is of the nozzle placement, the pink thing is a ceramic cover to protect from some of the heat

hirevlimit

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #21 on: February 15, 2009, 03:38:36 PM »
Looking great Spec keep up the pics this is a very interesting read.

Offline Nutz4sand

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #22 on: February 15, 2009, 04:58:48 PM »
I agree this is pretty neat. Till this I never had heard of this methoed.

Just a SILLY (but hey you know me...) question. Is this more effcient than using the wood like a steam engine would??
Your mission isn't to dive feet first into hell, but to make sure its crowded when you get there.

Offline Yummi

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #23 on: February 15, 2009, 07:05:32 PM »
my guess is there would be no reason why you could not do both?  capture the heat for steam, the gas for more heat, etc?
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Offline Boostinjdm

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #24 on: February 15, 2009, 07:08:18 PM »
or capture the heat for the garage or house and the gas to run equipment.
This post has been edited due to content.

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #25 on: February 16, 2009, 06:28:57 AM »
Thanks Guys ;)
Nutz,
Steam is extremely inefficient for powering stuff, great for heating, because it's easy to move...It moves itself ;)  Woodgas burns in the engine just like gasoline...only not as powerful, about 2/3 to 3/4 of the power...Now here's the cool part...a woodgas motor responds to the same Hop-up goodies as a regular gas engine...Only differance is a woodgas engine has to do it at or under 3,000 rpm's...otherwise your dumping burning Hydrogen out the tail pipe...Hydrogen burns much slower than gasoline.
Yummi and Boost,
The steam injector manifolds will be inside the gasifier, outside of the reactor case,  welded to the hottest area of the reaction zone, about 5'' above the nozzles you see in the pix.
I plan on plumbing the motors cooling system into the Big hungry's...That way when it's 40 below, and I go out to start it... it thinks it's 70 and sunny, The motor won't really add to the heating power of ''The big hungry''... It already makes more power than the house can take, What I'm trying to say is that the small amout of coolant that the motor heats will prolly not be noticeable in the 650 gallons of water that are already in the system...
Now for cooling, and cleaning of the woodgas...These unfortunately will have to stay out side with the reactor, and the heat will be wasted, the reason they have to stay out side is safety...lots and lots of tubes and chambers full of explosive gasses, a gulp of fresh air from a leak, or a backfire from the motor could all cause an explosion, woodgas guy's call it a hiccup...The lid on the gasifier has a couple of pop off valves or a spring loaded lid to keep this from destroying the system...They release the pressure and keep most of the burning stuff in the gasifier...Ive experianced a couple of ''HICCUPS'' with my 1st one...I just had the lid sitting on top since it was a stratified, They're not sealed like a Imbert,or Monorator...SCARY AS HELL blew the lid into the Nabe's lawn...I think I got a pic of it ;D
Now before you guy's think I'm going to blow up me and the Nabe's...Hiccups are not a common occurance in the Imbert or monorator...What I'm building is a hybrid of the 2...
I better explain ;)
A stratified...All air gets sucked in thru the top of the unit, big opening to dump the wood/fuel in

Imbert... Is a sealed system where the air is fed from below, but the gas is sucked out even lower in the system...The only time the top is open, is when you are adding Fuel...You notice I didn't say wood...A well tuned imbert will burn just about anything you want as long as it's not to wet...I read about a company that burns old tires in there's to make asphault...


Monorator...These are cool, they are of the air pre-heat with a large hopper that is heated on the bottom family...These dry the wood/fuel so you can get away with wetter fuel, and they will feed the steam injection...(water from the wood, as condensate... is collected in a tank, then pumped into the steam manifold)
Plus with a larger hopper you get extended burn times between fillings...

So in combining the pro's of the 2... I can learn what I need to know about taking it on the road in My planned woodgas truck...Food for thought...Yummi 1600 miles away...Spec goes to visit...Pays about 30 bux in fuel for the round trip, but has to drag about a ton of wood chunks, and stop at wayside rests to pee and pick up some sticks ;D

Offline T8erhead

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #26 on: February 16, 2009, 07:58:18 AM »
A woodgas truck?  That's pretty sweet.  I have been reading but now I am really interested.


SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #27 on: February 16, 2009, 09:34:13 AM »
Ya Fabr and I have been hashing over the engine mods, and IGN. obsticals, for about a year now...
Here's the truck that's gonna get it

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #28 on: February 16, 2009, 08:24:58 PM »
I been out in the shop making a mess... pissing and moaning...My wacky Tracky broke the clutch cable...Poor little Fooker has been trouble free for 9 years for me ;D...So I got some holes drilled and the pre-heat tubes welded, drilled, and fitted 8)
The offset on the nozzles is to creat turbulance in the reduction zone...I still have to punch the holes in the intake manifold, weld the tubes into it , and stich weld them to the case...Then it will be on to the tar ejectors ;)...I'll have some more pix tomarrow ff: gg: gg:

SPEC

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Re: WOODGAS
« Reply #29 on: February 16, 2009, 08:33:03 PM »
Something I forgot to mention is this...All of these welds need to be tested to 30'' of vacuum, thta's one of the reasons It is so slow inbuilding...As I said before air leaks can be exciting...And messy too ;D

 

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