SLED POWER...DTS way

[SPEC]

Here's where most guys screw the pooch
Measure the jackshaft in relation to the motor side to side, Front to rear...and save the upper chian sprocket...
I turn them down and weld the bike sprocket to it later...

[Engineer]

Thanks for the write up Spec.   

Are these motor usually water cooled?  If so do you get a much larger radiator when going to the buggy application?  You mentioned concern about overheating when test starting......  Can you eloaborate on these cooling issues for the non-sled savy.

Also what is the horsepower range you could expect from a 90's sled, and do they have mixers for the oil or do you just premix?

Thanks!

[SPEC]

Engineer,
90% are liquid cooled, yup I run bike radiators up front with fan assist
and Here's the kicker you can get any where from 45 horse, mild 340's to over 165 like the motor I was using in the pix as an example...
I'll elaborate on that stuff here in alittle bit...
Your very welcome

[SPEC]

Another place guys go  FUBAR,
IS THE WIRING HARNESS Sled motors only need 2 wires to run If your using a pull start and no lights...460's...
But if you want lights a key and ect...unplug and label as you goEXCEPT THE IGNITION SWITCHThat you pull the Key out of it, unscrew the locking collar, pull the module out the back replace the collar and turn the key to the on or run position...no lost key and no messin with the wires on the back side...They do change colors on you
The other you don't unplug is the regulator, that is in the picture below as well un bolt it, put the bolts right back in as soon as it clears the mount...Pretty much the rest will not plug into the wrong place, so I won't insult your intellegence

[SPEC]

Just a point of interest,
Keep the carbs,  throttle,and choke cables on the motor if you can...I usually just loop them together and ziptie them to the plug wires, This keeps the carbs in order, and adjusted/syncronized, and keeps the cables from being in the way and getting damaged...See pix below, If you look closely you'll see that this motor just needs some one to come over and lift it out

[SPEC]

Now that you got the motor out Don't just oss the rest in the trash, or aluminum pile
There is a ton more shit you can use on your buggy, Shocks can be re-utilized if your building a micro buggy, But all the steering heims,shafts, and tie rods should be saved as they often will work on the buggy whether you are using a rack or not, Generally they are high quality since you have to pull the motor to change them out

[SPEC]

So now you have your motor out, you have many questions and problems to solve

1) Exhaust...How in the fook am I gonna route it and how do I keep the pipe in the range

2)What the eff do I use for gearing

3) how the fook do I get these effen heat exchangers to keep this BADASS cool

4) The oil tank is ugly I don't want it haging it's ugly ass off the chassis where people can see it...This one doesn't count

5) Motor placement...How do I keep the clutches alligned and where aie can move over them to keep them cool

[SPEC]

Well...Dumb look comes over face HOW IN THE FOOK WOULD I KNOW...I ONLY  know how to take shit apart
actually I will do some installments on this...Kind of a multiple build log sorta deal, on a couple of approaches I know to be suitable to several kinds of builds

[SPEC]

1) Exhaust...How in the fook am I gonna route it and how do I keep the pipe in the range


Alot of hacks will tell you to hack up the sled exhaust, to make it fit...2 stroke pipes are a delicate animal small changes can upset them inturn upsetting you...Here's an example when I rolled up specinators pipes I was one decimal point off when I did the calculations, didn't notice at 1st thought it was the extra weight and I needed to re clutch for the added weight the motor was pulling around, so I spent a few days dinkin' around with the clutching/gearing...Figured maybe a seal went out (motor sat a few years) so I rebuilt it...It was perfect to start with...But I had it open...It just wouldn't get on the pipe HARD... so I looked over the specs and I was 1 stinkin decimal point off on the measurement of the original formula for figuring the belly of the pipe... I don't have a picture of the new pipes...but the belly is 1 1/2'' smaller in diameter, goes like It's hair is on fire now...I'll get pix of the ''adjusted pipe'' tomarrow...This statement in itself should tell you all you need to know about ''HACKING UP THE STOCK PIPE TO FIT''

[SPEC]

Somebodies been messin with my rank
And that some body better wipe that juice off their chin
But I'm not gonna change it

[SPEC]

Back to the exhaust
My philosophy is lees sound= more ground so I like to keep the noise down...If you check out the vids on Specinators buggy thread...Buggy is quiet
http://dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=212.0
 I accomplish this with a series of cups and baffles...Kinda a secret...
Sled pipes some have a muffler''can and some the muffler is the part as the pipe...pretty quiet but, heavy as hell and usually FOOKIN UGLY... Here's some pix of my muffler's (these I roll up in shop)

[tone]

hi

that's some good info
would you commission to purchase a snowmobile and strip and ship
 
thanks

[SPEC]

What are you looking for?
I was just out looking this morning...
I might have 1 in stock

[SPEC]

Next to giving away all the secrets of 2 stroke pipes I think this part of the installment is about done...If your going to try it on your own there is acouple of tips
Remember that they are hot and need a few inches between them and every thing else
A whale pipe is only a good thing if you want screaming top end, and nothing else matters   (they are a bitch to drive in the woods) and usually fuel pigs...
Less sound  EQUALS more ground...Keep it quiet if you can
Get them painted with hi-temp paint right away...one trip around the block and those effers will be rusty in a day...
Most important be prepaired to fail and burn lots of holes in the thin sheetmetal...

[SPEC]

Something I forgot :-[
Be sure to buy some ball joint type coupler's...They will make your life ALOT easier...$11.oo apeice, it's cheap insurance that you will get the assembly to fit...and still be able to get it apart, with out dissassmbeling the entire exhaust system...