MC cable throttle to foot throttle

[Engineer]

Anyone have any pictures of how they convert from the double cable motorcycle twist throttle to the foot throttle on a buggy?  I assume that the return cable is a safety precaution.  Keep it or not?  Also do you up the spring return pressure for foot operation?  And I assume that an adjustable hard stop is needed at the foot pedal to keep from hurting the cables or the throttle body linkage?

[fabr]

IMO you will want a much stiffer return spring with a foot throttle and the return cable is not necessary.I don't run one BUT I did cable in the return to a manual return if ever needed for any reason.Just a little T handle on the dash that could be grabbed in case of emergency. I doubt I do it again tho. But who knows what I'll do from one minute to the next!  LOL!!

[SPEC]

I got a conversion on barb's but no pix...it's still under the snow...I'll get some as soon as I can...It is pretty crude really...2 adjusting barres in holders on the frame, and a cable clamp
It's reliable but looks cheesey

[Reidy02]

Doug would be the one to ask, I did one on my piranah but it was pretty crude, I'll have a look for some pics.. Yeah here ya go as I said it's crude, I just got the cable that came with the motor and ran it up and just got a jegs cable holder and pop rivetted it to the frame and ran the other cable to the throttle box.. Hope this helps! Looking at it now I think I should have put it under neath the frame!

[Boostinjdm]

I would add a stiffer return spring to the carb and toss the return cable.  Then I would give the pedal it's own spring so the one on the carb only has to move the cable and not the pedal.  I came up with a really slick way to mount the cable to the pedal and not worry bout the cable wearing.  I used a bored out bolt for the adjuster.  I looped the cable around a half link for a #25 or #28 chain (I really don't remember what size it was, but it was narrow and long) and then put a aluminum crimp deal on it.  I then welded a piece of 1/8" flat on edge to the pedal with several holes in it.  To attach the cable you just line up the half link with a hole in the flat and insert the pin and cotter pin and you're set.  I don't think I have any pics but I could draw a simple sketch if you don't understand.  I think the whole set up was less than $5 including the cable.  I like to use bicycle cables for throttle cuz they are real long, available at Wal-mart, and have several different barrel ends to choose from.  Oh and hard stops on the pedal a definately necessary(sp?).

[Boostinjdm]

I just got done doin my taxes, my brain is kinda mushy. so if my post doesn't make any sense, speak up.

[Reidy02]

Oh yeah I did have a spring on the pedal two infact cause one wasn't enough!! :P

[Engineer]

Thanks for the info guys.  So there is no slick all in one adapter way to do it!

Reidy, at least with it high like that it probably keeps some of the dirt an muck out.  That would be one of my fears when having an open cable to cable connection, is that it would get full of dirt.  especially if mounted under the seat.

I like the adjustibility idea Boost.  And I never thought of looking at Wallyworld for cables, but I guess if your making up one end anyway, it gives quite a bit of flexibility.

[Rick S.]

You've got it right. You need adjustable stops and don't need the return cable.
I use a small stud type rod end at the pedal. The cable gets a threaded end.
Use a heavy return spring at the pedal. A stiffer spring at the carb is probably not a bad idea either. Not a great picture, but you can see the small rod end and the return spring if you look close.

[Engineer]

It looks like you have used a push/pull type cable in order to connect to the rod end.  How did the cable integrate to the motor at the other end?  Or did you connect cable to cable somewhere?

[fabr]

Has anyone used a hydraulic linkage?

[Rick S.]

I sent my original throttle cable to California Push-Pull. I included a drawing of exactly what I wanted. Showing the jacket length vs. overall length.
It hooked up on the motor end just as it did on the bike.

[Doug Heim]

I use the one cable as well. Rick shared his idea on the rod end. I turn up threaded adapters for the inner cable that set screw to the cable. Now the cable has a 1/4"-20 thread on it. I also use adjustable forward and return stops in my pedal boxes. A heavy spring is used at the box as well.

[Rick S.]

Hey Doug,
Ever thought about moving the spring attachment to the pedal down a little?
That ratio looks pretty bad.

[Doug Heim]

Its a very very stiff spring. 30# I think. Actually takes a little leverage to assemble it because of the spring's stiffness. Works Great once its together! If I move it down it will limit the forward travel and mess with the forward stop.

Im actually in the process of redesigning the throttle box as I only have one of these left. Figure I would redesign the overall look as I need more laser work done for them but still use the same dimentions for the stops. Ill also tag them together. Those pics dont show the forward stop that is contained within the internals of the box for those wondering.