DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
UTV's Off Road ( RZR, YXZ, Mini Buggy, Carts,etc.) => UTV Motor and Drivetrain => Topic started by: lockedup on February 16, 2009, 12:11:14 PM
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Hey, I just acquired a 1980 cb750 and am going to be making a rhino sized buggy with it, my question is is what is a cheap way to make a spool? Im going to be using U joint rear drive shafts.
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Best way IMO is to call Yoshi and buy his but it's not cheap.
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Or you could contact Doug Heim, He has some stuff thats a bit cheaper and probably more of the weight range your looking for. Oh wait thats me. Ill post pics of what I have. Im currently working on a uni shaft drive rearend for a customer. I prevfer CVs but Ill make what ever a customer wants to pay for.
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Best way IMO is to call Yoshi and buy his but it's not cheap.
working on a new design right now, but it won't be available for 3 or so weeks. Setup for cv's, 6" from flange to flange, lightweight, includes rotor, caliper, and brackets that weld to the frame. The carrier will bolt into the brackets and pivot to tighten the chain. I'm also running 3k pound timken tapered bearings, the same I run in my wheel bearing carriers. Prob. gonna be in the $850 range with everything mentioned, maybe even include a sprocket for that price if I can keep the build cost down...
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Well that actually does not sound all too bad Yoshi! Will you be posting pics of this unit?
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Well that actually does not sound all too bad Yoshi! Will you be posting pics of this unit?
Yeah, we're building them now, i've already got 5 orders and others interested. I've also started working on a design for a tube frame to mount it to a busa motor for people that are interested, along with some other desired parts I can't disclose just yet.......
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YOSHI-SAN,
hows that smaller rear setup coming ? Can I pm you an email address to get some spy photos of it ? Sounds great and I'm super interested. There are some great kits in DTS but you got my attention because of the smaller size. Hope to hear somethin soon. ::) ::) ::)
8)
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Here is the super low budget way to do it.
Go to the junkyard and pull the diff out of a front wheel drive car you think will have CV's that are strong.
Take diff and mount it in a home made contraption like this using off the shelf pillow block bearings:
Plug in the half shafts from the car and go. You can take the knuckles and hubs off the car too.
This is not a method that will rival the nice custom fabbed parts made by the people on this board. It's just cheap and possible with simple tools.
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OK, maybe this should be moved somewhere else, but it goes along with avendlerdp's above post. I'm getting ready to make the dual 428 sprockets for the drive above. After emailing back and fourth for about a week we have it all worked out and the sprockets will be cut tomorrow. I'm really looking forward to seeing how this turns out. The custom 15T dual sprocket will be case hardened and fit the 13 spline countershaft on all newer Honda motors. (above 600cc I believe) With 2 Krause chains rated at 12K lb. ea. this should be a really tough set up. The dual rear sprockets are 52T One mounts to the diff. The other sprocket is mounted to the first with a spacer ring sandwiched between the two.
I'll post up pictures as soon as I get started.
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Hey that double chain thing is a good idea...where'd ya get it?
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It's not my idea. I just do what I'm paid to do. ;D
The front sprocket is what I think is really sweet.
Because it fits the standard countershafts.
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I contacted Rick to make those custom sprockets for the twin chain setup and he is doing a great job helping figure out how to get it to work.
The unique part of it is not that there are two chains, but that they are the smaller 428 size. Using smaller the chains is better for setups where the front and rear sprockets are too close together to get a good chain length. My car can only has a 55 link 530 chain. Too short, overheats, wears out fast. With a 428 chain I will get nearly 75 links with the same center to center and gain 2" of ground clearance.
If you have a short chained car, you are going to want to talk to Rick and get this arrangement.
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Damn Rick. How do you find all the time? I thought you were building a buggy too?
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The unique part of it is not that there are two chains, but that they are the smaller 428 size. With a 428 chain I will get nearly 75 links with the same center to center and gain 2" of ground clearance.
That's why I was looking at it.
chaincase parts. I think I'm gonna do a double single setup with size 40/41 chain. Here is what I've got drawn so far. 1.75" flange to flange, could be narrowed a little but I thought I'd leave at least a little clearance. ;D
With two chains I can run a smaller size chain which means smaller OD sprocket with the same gear ratio. Plus two chains = higher total tensile strength and in theory longer chain and sprocket life because load is spread over more surface area.
60t #530 pitch dia. = 11.95"
60t #40 pitch dia. = 9.56"
60t #35 pitch dia. = 7.17"
I am trying to get as much reduction in one step as possible without building a huge unit.
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My buggy gets put on the back burner alot. I did buy an oil cooler for it today and I'm ordering a fuel cell filler neck tomorrow.
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I'm eager to see what the custom front sprocket costs. Just earlier today I was thinking fook the chaincase. I'll throw in the bike engine I want and just go with a spool type setup. If I stick with the stock chain, ground clearance will be close with a less than desired gear ratio. If I went to a double single chain setup I could get a better ratio and gain ground clearance.
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Lookey there! You are correct. :police: Sorry to take your idea.
You are right to FOOk the chaincase. I think it's easier and cheaper to go with moto chains in open air.
Hopefully I'll have this setup running soon and publish the results after a test day or two.
I'll let Rick tell you how much the sprockets cost.
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I'm thinking around 100 for the front.
If I were also doing the rears I'd lower that price.
What motor are you thinking about using.
I'm only able to do this design, because we both have the same 13 spline countershafts on our Honda motors. I waterjet the splines and can use my RC51's shaft for prototyping the fitment. Other splines would be difficult for me since I need a physical spline to check my fits.
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Would appreciate it. ;) Chaincase seems like a good idea for certain situations. But I like to shift, I hate two-smokes, and my travel will be good enough without a super narrow center section. I think I can get the width and travel I want with up to a 10" wide spool. I had my girlfriend measure the width of the sprocket and brake disc on my bike and it was only 8", so I should be good and a lot cheaper if I can get the bike engine shoehorned in.
Don't worry about "taking" my idea. I posted it cuz I thought it was outside the box thinking and I share hoping that others will too. If I was at all concerned about it, I would have kept it to myself.
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How you doing it rick? cut it out as one wide sprocket and then machine out the center?
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Here's another thought to narrow up the set up.
If I stagered the teeth (So the outer teeth line up with inner tooth spaces.) it could get a little narrower. Right now we have the chains in line (pin to pin)
It wouldn't save much, but it might be enough to make one of the WJ's thinner.
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My buggy gets put on the back burner alot. I did buy an oil cooler for it today and I'm ordering a fuel cell filler neck tomorrow.
Rick I truly hear what you are saying. Why is it that stuff which is important to us is so UNIMPORTANT to others?
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Here's another thought to narrow up the set up.
If I stagered the teeth (So the outer teeth line up with inner tooth spaces.) it could get a little narrower. Right now we have the chains in line (pin to pin)
It wouldn't save much, but it might be enough to make one of the WJ's thinner.
Just thinking out loud here. If you try to get them closer together by off setting the links and the chains get a litlle slack and start a wierd vibration/osilation thing they might hit each other? Might not but?
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I agree with Nutz, keep them lined up. I forget the name for chain motion as each tooth is loaded and unloaded on and off the sprockets, but the point is it has a slightly jerky motion, which would be better in unison IMO than offset.
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Just thinking out loud here. If you try to get them closer together by off setting the links and the chains get a litlle slack and start a wierd vibration/osilation thing they might hit each other? Might not but?
Due to the chordal action of how a roller chain engages the sprocket teeth they need to be in alignment.Offset is not a good idea.
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YOSHI-SAN,
hows that smaller rear setup coming ? Can I pm you an email address to get some spy photos of it ? Sounds great and I'm super interested. There are some great kits in DTS but you got my attention because of the smaller size. Hope to hear somethin soon. ::) ::) ::)
8)
I might post some pics today or tomorrow of the mockup. My machinist finished up all my new wheel bearing carrier stubs and I had him build 5 center carrier stubs which are shorter. He's suppose to start doing the splines today, then i can get them heat treated. I did have him build me a dummy flange for the opposite side (which is basically the part, only the id of it was made bigger to fit over the unsplined stub) and I got 4 of my plasma cut plates in.
I built the main center section here, got the plates all lined up and it works really well, it also has some cool things going on with the brake assembly, and how to tighten the carrier up. The flange to flange distance ended up being 6-1/4" apart, so it is very narrow, and I designed it to have an adapter ring on the sprocket side that bolts up to the flange so I will be able to make different offset rings to move the sprocket over some, or it can be replaced with an adapter ring to hold 2 sprockets side by side....
I made a couple adjustments to the mount plate design, and sent them over to the plasma cutter to get new ones cut. I'm hoping to have them in the next day or so so I can show how I will be attaching the sides.....
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Sounds really nice.Post the pics soon.
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Here are the 428 blanks. I'll post more pics of these when complete.
I need to face one side down on each and c'sink some holes.
The 1/2" ring spacer will be used as is.
The small washer has the prototyped spline to be checked against the RC51's spline shaft.
I'll tweak the dxf if needed and run the small sprockets next.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FGeoSprockets002.jpg&hash=5020561595b0af47d03232fc46a96c84dbf5fdb5)
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That would be awesome if someone could start making these for many different engines... ;) It would help solve a lot of GC issues too.
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If someone could provide actual dimensioned drawings of the splined shafts it would be no problem. I'd also need to know the dimension from the spline shoulder to the case.
The inside chain needs to run very close to the case.
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Almost done with the 52T dual sprockets.
I only need to pilot the center bore and c'sink or c'bore for the mtg. bolts.
I'd like to c'sink, but we haven't been able to find M10x1.25 pitch flat head soc. cap screws. Anyone know where to get these?
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FDual428001.jpg&hash=d0d638e9800d820e8181e9767903bbb098716076)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FDual428002.jpg&hash=e578306d22cded1beec67582ac7423c27ee4f561)
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I have flat head M10 X 1.25
Youll shit if i told you how much they are....
I use 6 on the PIRCV center hub. The plans call for M10 X 1.5 but I hate that thread. Not very strong IMO. I like Fine threads. They torque down better and you have more thread contact. Some people believe that Fine threads are easier to strip out. Not the case in my experience and knowledge.
Oh there $5 ea.!
So Rick want some? How long you need them?
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I may want 8 of them. I'll have to check with the future owner of these sprockets. I can just barely get the SHCS's c'bore deep enough without blowing out into the sprocket's pilot bore. The FHSCS would really be the way to go. These would need to be 1" long.
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why do they have to be countersunk?
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I'm guessing so they don't hit anything!
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The sprocket runs very close to the pillow block. Even with c'sunk SHCS the heads will have to be skimed down.
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Well Rick, those are going to be the nicest parts my crap can race-car has ever seen! Really nice work.
I can't wait to have a chain drive system that does not require hourly adjustment and maintenance.
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ff: gg: ff:
The plot thickens
;D
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What the heck. I posted on here since my last and I dont see it. Ahh anyway. Mainly it was that the flat heads also offer more surface contact of the bolt head. The PIRCV center drive uses this method and I think it is the way to go wether you needed the flat heads for clearance or not.
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Not only do they offer more surface contact area, but they positively locate. Similar to a dowel. With eight M10 flat heads the sprocket isn't going anywhere.
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Rick Ill check with my supplier tomorrow and get back to you.
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Not only do they offer more surface contact area, but they positively locate. Similar to a dowel. With eight M10 flat heads the sprocket isn't going anywhere.
In theory yes. At work we used them a lot to attach hardened wear plates in the balers and shears and I would say that 99% of them didn't have the head centered on the threads. you could watch the head woble down into the hole as they were snugged down. Try sticking one in the lathe and take a look.
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I looked and looked last night and I couldn't find a source for your bolts. That pitch is hard to find... could you counter bore button heads maybe? I couldn't find any of them in that pitch either, but it was a thought. Or a regular old hex head cut down?
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I have noticed how some seem to wobble down, but I've never had a head pop off.
The fine thread button heads may be just as hard to come by. But they would work if you can find them. I'm going to have our purchasing dept. check into the flat heads tomorrow. If they can't find them then we'll order from you Doug.
Can you get the 25mm length?
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That's what Ill check on. I have 15mm in the shelf. I use them for the PIRCV Sprockets.
Don't even bother with the button heads. I could not find those at all. I ended up drilling out the M10 X 1.25's to 7/16"-20 (pitch and diameter close enough to drill out and re tap) and the 7/16"-20 button heads are even more expensive. About $6.50 ea. But hey go for it. If you can find them cheaper Ill buy some. I have both the 7/16"-20 BHSCS and M10X1.25 FHSCS. I have 48 of ea. and you can do the math to how much I have invested in enough hardware to fit in you hand. Its ridiculous!
When Rick and I were designing and building for his idea of the rear I used in my Piranha I had sourced up a 5/16"-24 LH flat head. They were $15 ea! We bought 3. 3 bolts for $45. That's whats ridiculous!
Oh and yes I am aware that most flat heads run out. You see that in allot of hardware sourced from overseas. I too have had no problems though. I also use a locating diameter in the hub to the sprocket's bore.
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We're c'sinking the head flush in 3/8 material, so 5mm thread engagement wouldn't cut it. Let me know what you find out.
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I can get them. Oh and I have 20mm on the shelf. I lied!
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I need 8 of M10x1.25 x 25mm long. The 20mm would only give me 10mm thread engagement. I like to have a minimum of 1 1/2 x dia. thread engagement.
How much and is paypal OK?
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I havent found crap either, i did locate the 7/16 for 8.00 each tho, no call back on the 10m..
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I tried Metrics Unlimited today with no luck.
They need to change their name.
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Your skilled enuff, just make them yourself... ;D
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I was going to make them but oped not to.
Paypal is fine.
$5 ea. and $5 for shipping.
I can get 30mm as well.
Just PM me or place in the comments in Paypal and Ill order them tomorrow.
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Here are the 428 blanks. I'll post more pics of these when complete.
I need to face one side down on each and c'sink some holes.
The 1/2" ring spacer will be used as is.
The small washer has the prototyped spline to be checked against the RC51's spline shaft.
I'll tweak the dxf if needed and run the small sprockets next.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FGeoSprockets002.jpg&hash=5020561595b0af47d03232fc46a96c84dbf5fdb5)
just out of curiosity, why didn't you use an aluminum spacer between the sprockets? I have seen the short chains get got and melt the o-rings between them but what is more interesting is that the heat actually came from the sprockets. coming off the dunes this rail has some cool down time ( not a bunch ) low rpm and low speed. never saw any problems at the dunes but in the dirt, when it runs 90 mph - 110 mph in 2 miles runs for a total of 8 back to back then skids to a stop, shut down with little to no cool down period the heat from the sprockets is absorbed and cooks the o-rings. you can even see the contact patch on the chain ( from the heat ). I was just wondering if it would be better to make the spacer out of aluminum with cooling teeth or fins ( similar to a flywheel )?
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I like that idea but it's not happening on this version of the setup due to my need to get this stuff done soon. I have a race event coming up and have to test a bit before hand so time it of the essence.
The whole idea here anyway is cut heat down by using these smaller pitch chains. The shorted the pitch, the slower the chain speed, and the fewer times the links bend for each tire revolution. Also, the smaller chains have a greater surface area to volume ratio and thus cool better... I hope.
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We were trying to keep the cost down. Aluminum was considered.
I also thought about tapping the spacer and using 4 flat head screws in each sprocket.
But tapped holes and aluminum = higher cost.
Here is the front sprocket so far.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FBoxSides005.jpg&hash=87d53134fa2c7d2f01427381f53e73adfb77ce20)
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Is it just me or do the splines look a little goofy on the sprocket on the right? Like their tilted. Is this done for a reason or is it just an illusion?
metric Flat M10X 1.25 on the way! Man I must have a good hardware source!
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I saw that too Doug. I'm sure there's a good explanation. It seems unlikely that Rick would have not noticed that!
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On very thick pieces you get noticeable blowout on the bottom side with a waterjet.
This is why this needed to be two piece. The more precision 3/8 half is against the motor. The 3/4 gets tig welded to the 3/8 using a jig to keep the teeth and splines in line.
I placed the sprocket teeth on the entry side of the 3/4 piece because the tooth accuracy is more important than the splines. Even with the funny blowout the 3/4 piece fits nice on the splines with very little chatter. No more chatter than was there on the stock sprocket. After heat treat it will be even tighter. I probably could have just splined one half, (since it does get welded) but I thought it best to capture splines in both pieces.
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sounds good enough to me... What is the material and what is it to be heat treated to (rockwell)? I may have you look into doing some splining for me on the H2O jet in the future.
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Waterjet guy says it's hrs probably 1020. It will be carb. hardened not sure what rockwell yet. I need to do some research on what everyone else is doing. 50/55? just guessing.
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Is there any advantage (other than availability) of water over laser in this circumstance?
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A laser would have trouble cutting tiny splines like these in thick material. Too much heat.
I do have access laser, plasma, strippit and waterjet.
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Cheers ;)
OK.... what's a strippit? (NO Yummi!)
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It's like a nibbler, or a punch that moves around.
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It's a very large high speed punch press. One of ours even has a laser head in addition to the punches. It punches all holes and lasers the contours. It can also do countours, but they do look nibbled. The accuracy on hole relationships is within .005"
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and you all wonder why this guy can build such highly detailed machines? Its all in the machines making jobs easier and more professional.
Oh, and a little bit of skill goes a long way to ll: (probably quite a lot of skill actually, but dont tell Rick that, I think his head is set to swell...)
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As some of you may have guessed Im quite a fan of 'doin stuff'. There is nothing wrong with throwin the cheque (correct spelling) book at things to get em done. But I am extraordinarily impressed with guys who start from scratch and MAKE stuff.
Its what I try and do but my limited abilities only allow so much.
Rock on all the engineers of the world (and particularly this site!)
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As some of you may have guessed Im quite a fan of 'doin stuff'. There is nothing wrong with throwin the cheque (correct spelling) book at things to get em done. But I am extraordinarily impressed with guys who start from scratch and MAKE stuff.
Its what I try and do but my limited abilities only allow so much.
Rock on all the engineers of the world (and particularly this site!)
Not in the U.S. Why is the spelling different on certain words. even all these english speaking countries have their own twist in words. Check and Cheque is a great example of this.
Ahh oh well.
Artie... in responce to your post, I have to agree. I love seeing somthing made from nothing. Thats why I like doing what I do! Allot of satisfaction.
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Yeah I'll third that motion, I think it is, I do alot of trying and get a bit done. ::) ah well I'm have'n a go!! And gett'n better sorta! ;D I guess that's a matter of opinion huh.. Oh and tyers and tires Doug, then there's colour and your way!
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Not in the U.S. Why is the spelling different on certain words.
Gonna have to ask youself that one mate. After all its you guys that heve elected to spell things differently to the rest of the (ENGLISH speaking) world...
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AluminIum thats the one I have most difficulty accepting.. not real fond of your version of tyre either.. or cheque... realise with an S for gods sake..... jayzus!
Sorry, back to topic.....
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I'm Just about finished with this project. Here is the 15T dual sprocket mounted on the weld jig. I cut a small groove for the tig welding the two halves. 3 dowels and a small WJ spline slug help to hold the correct alignment between halves.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2F13Tweldjig004.jpg&hash=4f05658e18f7f6d734ba908ee488894af98852f5)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2F13Tweldjig005.jpg&hash=1519bdb911ebe92838e8328054f030f0c4cfa4b1)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2F13Tweldjig009.jpg&hash=e2d9ee11907ba051c72c7056b949f34a67921786)
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Looks pretty good to me. Who ya gonna bribe to TIG it?
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I have a welder at work that needs some machine work done. ;D
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Isn't trading work great. Everybody gets what they want and nobody has to get out the wallet to do it. ;D
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I personally love the trade deal. Rick and I do it all the time. Works out great. In most cases it works out better than the cash because we end up trading for something more valuable to the recipient on both ends.
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Oh by the way. Looks great Rick! now are they already carburised or is that after welding. I would assume after?
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So how do you actually do it? Do you need an oven? Is it something you can do at home or do you have to send it out?
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We send everything down the street.
So the answer is.....I don't know.
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At least you're honest. ;)
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We can and do carburise at work. All you need is a smoke wrench and the compound with a bucket of water. You get the area you want to harden red hot and dip into the coumpound. I do this twice and then quench it. Cant even strike a file on it afterwards. Really simple but I learned by watching a fellow co-worker do it. Stinks too!
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You do know what the carburizing compound is don't you? No wonder it stinks.LOL!!!
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You do know what the carburizing compound is don't you? No wonder it stinks.LOL!!!
What is it......... ::)
Are you saying I can take a dump and start carburizing parts?
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smells about the same....
If I remember right, Its salts carbon dust and sulfur...And some kind of cyanide as well
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It was the Carbonitriding process that I was asking about. With the amonia mentioned as a source of nitrogen, I figured it had to be done in a sealed environment or something. I have done the carburizing process before.
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Finally done with the sprockets. Had the 15T welded up today and spent some time filing the splines tonight. I wanted to loosen up the fit a little before heat treat.
Hopefully the id won't shrink much.
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FGeosprockets004.jpg&hash=ec62d8969ffa468bb68cf6dfa46913ad6492bc53)
(https://dtsfab.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi363.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Foo76%2FKrasch_Design%2FGeosprockets005.jpg&hash=f0db3765107476ddf044062ee1f8a1a4ffd4a99d)
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excellent work Rick. When we rough shafts before heat treat the length for ablut every 2 ft. shrinks about .020.
Not sure if that applies here though.
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Oh hey look!!! Ricks motor has some dirt on it!
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I know, I really should have cleaned that up before taking the pic.
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Looks great. You sandblasted it to make look good didn't you. Admit it.
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Yes ;D
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Here are a couple photos of the dual 428 chain set up in avendlerdp's Geo.
No wear issues so far. He says at the track he was hitting the rev limiter in 6th at around 121 mph. Big improvement over the single 530 chain.
I'm hoping he'll post up more photos and feedback.
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Excellent. Glad it all worked out so far!
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Hey I just got the notification that you posted and it reminded me that I owe you guys some more info and I promise I'll take some better pix of the setup in the near future.
Just to recap: The car weighs about 1650 lbs and has a CBR900RR engine. It has a 3.5 to 1 gear ratio. (15/53) It runs on pavement with 23.2 inch diameter tires.
As Rick said, I did a track test day and we put a lot of laps on the car. We where at Buttonwillow raceway in SOCAL. It has two very long straights so the car spent quite a bit of time at high speeds, topping out once per lap at over 121 mph, according to gearing and tire diam. calcs.. With the new lower gearing, that now fits in the car due to the smaller 428 sprockets, we gained a lot of performance exiting turns too. Traction is now a big issue. Not a bad problem to have. There was no noticeable loss of power to friction and the chains ran at basically room temp or slightly warm to the touch all day. A big change form the 200 degree plus chain temps we used to get on the 530 chain. The 428 chain just has to bend a lot less and that's why it stays cooler. Also since the sprockets are smaller there is better geometry and more teeth are used on the front sprocket, distributing the load over more teeth. All good.
Anyhow, I am just cleaning everything up and inspecting it all. There is no noticeable wear on the sprockets although there was a bit of shine on one side of the sprocket due to a very slight misalignment. I'll fix that. Over the course of the day I adjusted the chain tension a couple of times but really there is only negligible chain stretch. The system just works.
I can't thank Rick S. enough for making this idea a reality. He worked fast and for a good price. If you are running a chain drive car with fewer than 70 pins in your chain this system will be a big improvement. I think chain wear will become a non issue for us. I'll keep everyone posted. We do a 16 hour, two day race at the end of May. If it lives through that it's good for whatever can be thrown at it.
Stay tuned.
-Alex
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That's GREAT
The dual chain has been a good idea, I THINK IT WILL SOLVE ALOT OF PROBLEMS FOR ALOT OF PEOPLE ;D