2.0 airs

[dsrace]

I re-valved my shocks yesterday and took a few pics just in case some one else might be getting ready to do the same. I also have some info for everyone on factory oil levels. if you look at the oil level's for 8.5 - 14 " stroke you will see the increase this might explain why I was told by a fox shock rep that you can only add 30 cc of oil to these shocks over what there fill level is.

here are some instructions and a few fill levels


From: FOX OFF ROAD
Subject: FOX 2.0 A/S H REBUILD
1.   Clean shock.
2.   Set shock with Schrader valve up. De-pressurize shock completely.
3.   Remove bearing cap. You may need to use a flat blade screwdriver or a small punch.
4.   Press down bearing assembly to expose snap ring. Remove snap ring.
5.   Remove shaft/ bearing assembly, by rocking back and forth and pulling out at the same
time.
6.   Dump used oil.
7.   Clamp shaft eyelet assembly in a vise, or soft jaws. Remove valving, negative spring
bearing assembly, and bearing cap. Make sure to keep all valve plates and piston in the
same order as removed,
8.   With a scribe remove all seals from bearing. Clean all parts.
9.   Inspect all valve plates, damping piston, and negative spring, look for cracks or any
signs of fatigue.

10.   Check shaft to see that it is not bent or has any deep pits ( rock dings), replace if
needed.
11.   Install new seals on all parts. Use a small amount of assembly lube on bearing
assembly.
12.   Install bearing cap and bearing assemblies back onto shaft. Be careful not to tear any
seals.
13.   Install negative spring, valving assembly and lock-nut. Torque nut to 30 ft./lb.
14.   Clean body assembly^ place it in a vise open end up.
15.   Fill shock with correct amount 6f oil (FOX 5wt). See attached sheet for correct
level. It is very important that you put the correct amount of oil back into the shock!
16.   Install flex DU on valve piston. Insert the shaft and bearing assembly into the shock
body. Depress the bearing assembly to access the snap ring groove.
17.   Install the snap ring. Check to be sure it is completely in its groove, this is very
important!
18.   Install bearing cap.
19.   Remove the shock from the vise. Place shock with Schrader valve up.
20.   Pressurize the shock with 180-200 psi.
21.   Compress the shock to make sure it is working properly.

2.0 4.0 A/S (1.25)   125CC
2.0 4.5 A/S (1.25)   150CC
2.0 5.5 A/S (1.25)   200 CC
2.0 8.5 A/S (1.25)   250CC
2.0 10.0 A/S (1.25)   275CC
2.0 12.0 A/S (1.25)   300CC
2.0 14.0 A/S (1.25)   325CC
2.0 4.0 BUMP STOP (1.25)   125CC


here is a copy of the instruction sheet on how to revalve or re build your shocks. please note that where these are good instruction that I was given a few helpful hints that do make a huge difference like after you think you have let all the pressure out of the shock flip it up side down and then back up 3 -4 times and let some more pressure out, do this 3-4 more times. the blue cap at the bottom of the shock body is an interference fit but does fit tight so stick a flat screw driver in one of the three slots and tap down on it and then the next slot and so on until it pops out. also after you get it loose zip tie it to the shock shaft out of the way, the seal inside the body you see needs to be pushed down into the body to expose the snap ring you need to remove. if you do not have all the pressure out of the shock you could get hurt while removing that snap ring also you will need to clamp you shock in a vise with a cloth wrapped around it to do this or some kind of soft jaw fixture. before you push that seal into the body make sure you have the shock in you clamp ( vise or what ever fixture ) up side down so schrader valve down or you will dump oil all over!!!!!

MOST IMPORTANTLY !!!!! put everything back together the way you took it apart!!!!!!!!  the puck that the valving or spacers sit on is directional so it is very very important that you do not flip it over by accident!!!!!!!!

[Engineer]

Thanks DS, very nice write up.  Where did you find the instructions?  I just bought some coil-overs, and didn't get any instructions for disassembly, etc.  Did you have to take it apart further than in the pictures to change the valving?  Is the valving the parts under the big nut that we see in the last picture?

[dsrace]

Thanks DS, very nice write up.  Where did you find the instructions?  I just bought some coil-overs, and didn't get any instructions for disassembly, etc.  Did you have to take it apart further than in the pictures to change the valving?  Is the valving the parts under the big nut that we see in the last picture?

I had to ask my shock rep for them ( I am a dealer for him ). the valving ( I call machinist washers ) under the nut are the valving. you take the nut off and then the three spacers and then the stack of valves. the larger dia valves are on the top and the smaller ones on the bottom under the puck ( that's what I am going to call it ). no I did not have to take it apart to much further than the pics just had to take the nut off and the valves including the puck in between them. wasn't that hard just time consuming.

[Engineer]

So take some out, put some in.........   Is there a different stack that controls compression and rebound?  Did the instructions include how to make an appropriate change?

Also is it always the same weight oil, or is there different weights for tuning?

[dsrace]

So take some out, put some in.........   Is there a different stack that controls compression and rebound?  Did the instructions include how to make an appropriate change?

Also is it always the same weight oil, or is there different weights for tuning?

I have always used the same weight oil ( fox 5 wt ) but I carry a gallon of it usually. the number of washers in a stack does determine the valving but no I don't have any specs on that. the valve stacks are only about $12 a piece or so, I would have to go look at my last recipt for sure. I will have to ask next time if there is a spec sheet on valve stacks I can have just for referance. as far as tuning goes you can add up to an additional 30 cc of oil for dampening in 5 - 10 cc increments ( as per were my instructions some time ago ). I have never asked about different weight oils though, never needed to.

[dsrace]

So take some out, put some in.........   Is there a different stack that controls compression and rebound?  Did the instructions include how to make an appropriate change?

Also is it always the same weight oil, or is there different weights for tuning?

did you get my pm?

[dsrace]

did you get my pm?

I guess so.