DTSFab.com (Desert, Trail and Sand)
Machinery, Trailers, Toyhaulers and Motorhomes => Machinery Builds => Topic started by: Baloo on November 21, 2011, 11:59:55 AM
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thinking of building a tube bender for christmas as a present to myself eyes
plenty of examples around the net including this one http://reference.toolandfab.com/writeups/hydrobender_webpage/index.htm
would this work as an upright unit ? l was thinking it would take up less real estate when not in use if l could just push it in the corner and put a sheet over it,
same as cebby's but with the backend of the ram on the floor and the cylinder upright, would that work ?
Andy
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Have you seen these?
http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm (http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm)
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This is right up your alley...
http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3673.msg62802#msg62802 (http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3673.msg62802#msg62802)
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Have you seen these?
http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm (http://www.gottrikes.com/Tube_Bender.htm)
well l guess they work work in the upright position ok then, thanks for that, that is the way l am heading then
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This is right up your alley...
http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3673.msg62802#msg62802 (http://www.dtsfab.com/index/index.php?topic=3673.msg62802#msg62802)
that is cool, will keep my eye.s open for a truck ps box, l think you could make an interesting bender out of one of those,
but for now l will go with something like cebby's as l have a hydraulic ram and just aquired a powerpack of a lift ( elevator )
l have ordered a couple of dies as they seem to time consuming to make, 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" for now
will be on it before the weekend lol
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Baloo
Here are a couple threads to another forum where you might see some ideas you might like to incorporate.
OFN Bender area here at this link
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=95 (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=95)
This link below is more of bender stands and carts and it is in the link above somewhere too.
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531&highlight=slow (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531&highlight=slow)
One thing I HAVE to point out.
If you read all those posts at the links above you will see more than a couple guys who build them like Cebby's have bender arm issues due to the angle the hydraulic cylinder is pushing on the moving arm. (There are some who have not. But many have)
Its not applying the force as much to bend the tubing as it is to trying to shear the pivot pin.
The Cylinders as the factory hydraulic setups push near perpendicular to the arms. While benders like Cebbies are almost parrellel to the arms.
I have seen more than a few guys who have the pivot pin bind and gall and wear the pivot hole out quick. Others get the two mounting bolts that cannot hold the stationary arm solid due to the forces of the wrong angle and these move and cause uneven or non repeatable bends.
Also using a tierod cylinder its not supported in the center and this causes the weight in the center to put a large load on the bender pivot again its not supposed to see and the rest or the load on the cylinders other end. This sagging cylinder causes other issues.
There is a pretty neat soulution to this to where a guy used a type of ball bearing on a flat plate to support the weight.
If its not in that other thread I linked it near there somewhere in those other threads.
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I will add that if I were not so deep into my bender I would have went with a Got trikes bender too. I have seen 20 some people who have them and all seem to love them.
I would just not use air over hydraulic. I would use electric over hydraulic as I am with my current one if I ever get to finish it....
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Hi Nutz
thanks for those links l will have a read through them tonight,
l can see the angle of the ram is critical and a few degrees will make it shear the pins instead of rotating the arms, l have put a couple of hours into it today, l have set mine at more of an angle to get the arms moving easier, the plates l have borrowed of some one l will get my own water jetted out once l have the thing working, l was thinking of making curved arms to throw the hole where the ram attaches further out from the die ?
anyway heres a few pics of where l got to today
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l was also looking at the track motor on a 13 ton excavator that was in the yard today, if l mounted one of them in a sturdy bench/stand and had a way of dropping the dies onto it, hex shape drive ?, then l could just rotate the die with a simple lever valve,
plan B then if this fails lol
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chopped a bit of the legs and fitted the castors
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starting to look like a hat stand now eyes
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back on the bench and have a bash at making it pedal operation as well as lever
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l was also looking at the track motor on a 13 ton excavator that was in the yard today, if l mounted one of them in a sturdy bench/stand and had a way of dropping the dies onto it, hex shape drive ?, then l could just rotate the die with a simple lever valve,
plan B then if this fails lol
+1!!!!!!
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How did you bend the tubes to build the tube bender with....
Looks nice BTW. ;D
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ring roller
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ring roller
correct master
l had been looking for a ring roller for a long time but they dont seem to come up for sale very often, when this one did come up for sale l had to dig deep into my pockets even though it only had tooling for box section, till this appeared l was planning on making one out of 3/4" steel plate and hydraulic motors, might even still make one yet,
as this had no round tooling l was limited to square/rectangular section untill one of my pals bought a cnc lathe 8) dident take long to knock out 3 rollers for 1.5" tube 8) have to work on him for the other sizes soon ;)
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l will be trying to "roll" a buggy out soon, l have this engine and box
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the only thing different to normal is that the gearbox is cvt, same gearbox as you would find in the bmw mini over there, they are quite cheap over here as no one seems to like them as the engine revs bear no relation to road speed, being as they are not popular no one seems to know anything about them like are they strong enough for a buggy will they last or blow up on the first lap, so since l have one l thought l would do some research, like test it to destruction lol, am planning on making a rolled tube buggy to put it in, not to fussed about about using fancy suspension on it just want to see how the gearbox holds up, in fact it might be better to run it on the standard nitrogen suspension that the doner car had as Alan has my old buggy that l built with the same engine but manual gearbox
my old buggy
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which alan turned into this
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so if my buggy is the same weight same suspension and same engine and same tyres as Alans then we can pit one against the other and see which is quicker/better, if l put long travel on this buggy and was 10 secs a lap quicker l wouldent know if the gearbox was 5 secs a lap quicker as well as the suspension or the suspension was 20 secs faster and the gearbox was 10 secs slower
anyway drifting/rambling a bit now but l will be rolling a buggy soon
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Baloo
Here are a couple threads to another forum where you might see some ideas you might like to incorporate.
OFN Bender area here at this link
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=95 (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=95)
This link below is more of bender stands and carts and it is in the link above somewhere too.
http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531&highlight=slow (http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=531&highlight=slow)
One thing I HAVE to point out.
If you read all those posts at the links above you will see more than a couple guys who build them like Cebby's have bender arm issues due to the angle the hydraulic cylinder is pushing on the moving arm. (There are some who have not. But many have)
Its not applying the force as much to bend the tubing as it is to trying to shear the pivot pin.
The Cylinders as the factory hydraulic setups push near perpendicular to the arms. While benders like Cebbies are almost parrellel to the arms.
I have seen more than a few guys who have the pivot pin bind and gall and wear the pivot hole out quick. Others get the two mounting bolts that cannot hold the stationary arm solid due to the forces of the wrong angle and these move and cause uneven or non repeatable bends.
Also using a tierod cylinder its not supported in the center and this causes the weight in the center to put a large load on the bender pivot again its not supposed to see and the rest or the load on the cylinders other end. This sagging cylinder causes other issues.
There is a pretty neat soulution to this to where a guy used a type of ball bearing on a flat plate to support the weight.
If its not in that other thread I linked it near there somewhere in those other threads.
Nutz
l read through a lot of them links you posted some interesting stuff on there, found myself on a cnc forum eventually :o could easily get sucked into a cnc plasma table eyes
found this pic which shows little angle to help the ram to move the arms
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compared to mine which has much more ??, my guess is that it will work but l dont know how to calaculate it so l will just have to finish it and see what happens ?
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think l need me one of them fancy degree rings you all seem to have :)
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this is gilding the lily a bit, english phrase for OTT :) but if l had an open/closed valve and mounted it above the hyd cylinder as in the sketch below l could use it to release the pressure going into the cylinder to stop the bending, if l mounted a 1" round bar to the travelling end of the ram using a rose joint and suported it at the end of the cylinder with a bronze bush it would follow the piston in and out accuratly now mount on this a sliding collar with locking thumb screw that can be slid along the 1" bar, as the bar moves out the collar at some point would contact the valve and push it open stopping the cylinder ??
machine a flat on top of the 1" bar and fix a tape rule on this flat with now have a reference and it wouldent take long to work out what 45*, 90* etc was on the rule, now you could set the slider to whatever angle you required stand on the pedal and the bender should stop at the set angle, l guess l could reprint the tape measure in degrees if l was fussy
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any of that make sense ??
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I think I follow what you wish to do for the stop Baloo.
The only thing I can see an issue with it is it would get close.
But each tube size and thickness has different springback. So you might need a differet "stop rod" for each tube size or thickness??
Maybe not?
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How about using a limit switch where your hyd valve is shown in your sketch and a solonoid valve to dump the pressure?
The valve could be right on the tank and save some pluming.
Rich
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How about using a limit switch where your hyd valve is shown in your sketch and a solonoid valve to dump the pressure?
The valve could be right on the tank and save some pluming.
Rich
hi Rich
l did start off thinking about limit switches but over here the mains voltage is 240v which will kill you easily so if a wire came off the switch and touched the machine l would be dead and whilst you guys might not miss me the wife would kill me if l did that :o
true l could use 12v solinoids but then l would need a transformer to get down to 12v and a rectifier to get to dc and it all starts getting more complicated and costly, a simple valve is $15
in all honesty l dont think l need a stop really for the amount l am going to use the machine, a big degree wheel and stop when it reads the angle l want will probally do .
what started me thinking about a stop was that the ram is to long really think it has 3" to much stroke so if l dont stop when the die is fully round then it will just bend something, fine if l am using it since l know but if l lend it to someone then its likerly to come back busted
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Looks like you've drawn a thumbscrew on the stop making it adjustable. You should be able to move it, make a mark and go back to each mark when needed. If you check your bends with a protractor, make and keep a chart for each type of tube, thickness, and springback you should be able to make it repeatable.
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Looks like you've drawn a thumbscrew on the stop making it adjustable. You should be able to move it, make a mark and go back to each mark when needed. If you check your bends with a protractor, make and keep a chart for each type of tube, thickness, and springback you should be able to make it repeatable.
thats what l was thinking, fix a tape measure on the bar and write down the numbers that the bends corresponds too
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Dog seems happy with the outcome?
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spanner is always happy checking out what l am doing
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there is actually 2 of them, double trouble
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and that collar slowed him down for a while
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so l have a hydraulic power pack a big hydraulic ram and 4 pipes, and the only bit that works is the 4 pipes eyes
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Bummer!Cool dog though.
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Real bummer BalOO.
How in the hell did that ram bend like that? Did it bend just as you were starting a bend or at the end of a bend? Like the ram got in a bind or somthing?
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Real bummer BalOO.
How in the hell did that ram bend like that? Did it bend just as you were starting a bend or at the end of a bend? Like the ram got in a bind or somthing?
From the above where he says no wonder its so cheap I think he bought it that way.
That IS BS when somoene sells something like that and does not tell you first.
Hopefulley the blue pump you got may be good it may just have a bad coupler between the pump and motor? That would still let it squirt fluid but do no real work. I dunno just thinking outloud.
Now if he was a LEFT handed fiddle player that would be UBER cool!
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"Now if he was a LEFT handed fiddle player that would be UBER cool!"
Right handed or not I'm impressed. I can't get my dog to anything like that.............lol
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better day today, tried another power pack and it works ok, pushed the arms round to around 110 degree in one push in about 20 seconds, mounting detail is different though so l will have to cut the brackets of and remake
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I'd be glad to have 3 power packs laying around to try............................ ;D ;D Good to see it working out for you now.
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So Baloo
Looking at the fourth pic down. Will the rod from the piston interfer with the tube on the tooling. It looks to be really close at full extention. Or is it just the angle of the camera making it look close. See what I'm saying?
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I'd be glad to have 3 power packs laying around to try............................ ;D ;D Good to see it working out for you now.
lol, only 2 are mine and one of them only works as a door stop so l only have one really,
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right l mounted up the other pump now and it all works ok except the hoses are a little short as the ports are in different positions, eyes
answering fastcorvairs, question its very close l stopped the ram with about 2" clearance to the die which is the max tube l think l will be bending, however there is still 3" of stroke left on the ram at this position not ideal, the sensible way to over come this would be to open up the ram and drop a 3" steel spacer in there to limit the stroke but l am not sensible eyes
on the side of the pump is a 12v solenoid that l thought would dump the out going pressure back to the tank when 12v was applied to it, perfect l can go back to the idea of an adjustable stop that hits a switch and be able to set an angle and repeat it time after time, if l weld a backstop on the adjustable rod then it wont be able to go full travel if l get the endstop in the right place that is,
however l was wrong as usual, the solenoid dosent stop the ram it reduces the speed by a factor of about four, as this is an ex elevator hyd pump it might have been used to slow the lift car when it approached floor level ? anyway l can have a 2 speed bender if nothing else lol,, perhaps a creep speed for the final few degrees,
there are some other ports with blanking plugs in them so will have a mess and see what l can make happen, if not l might go back to the idea of a remote solenoid to dump the pressure when l get to the desired angle, maybe even have 2 micro switches so as when you set and angle of 90 degrees it powers round to 80 degrees on fast and drops to a crawl for the last 10 and then stops
more tinkering for sure
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temptation got the better of me lol
had to have a go and see what l could bend although its not finished, l havent got the right sized pins in it etc etc,
foot pedal works fine and it starts off cleanly with the motor keeping a steady note through out the bend although l might change the moving arms,
second pic is at around 90 degrees and still plenty to go, so l did eyes ran out of die l bought the 120 deg ones that form to 110 degrees went past that and pinched the tube eyes l should have bought the 240 degree dies shouldent l :(
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Very nice Baloo. Do you ever sleep? And when you do sleep you must be dreaming of your next project.
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Very nice indeed. Ya,I always buy the 240 degree ones. No need limiting ourselves...........................
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sleep ?? l see that as a waste of valuable time ;)
was thinking of recutting the moving arms like l have drawn on the pics below, only more of a nice banana shape than a kinked straight
this would give me more leverage to get the bend going if l was trying 2.5" 1/4 wall tube and it would also use up the extra 3" of travel l have on the ram as it would have to reach further on full stroke ??
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Hmmmm,you never stop thinking do you? I like the idea myself. Any worries that all the arms would need be beefier to handle the loads of 2.5x.250 tube?
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"Hmmmm,you never stop thinking do you?"
hey that would explain why l wake up tired in the mornings ;) now if l could only remember what l was thinking about all night sleep wouldn't be so wastefull :laugh:
"I like the idea myself. Any worries that all the arms would need be beefier to handle the loads of 2.5x.250 tube?"
l have no idea if they would be strong enough but will let you know when l try it ;D
my lazer man can only cut up to half inch but there would be no problem doubling up the plates to make 3/4 or 1 inch and the pin size can be any size we like ( within reason )
once l have finished and refined it l will post up my dxf files if anyone wants them ?
Andy
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Something tells me there will be interest.
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a little more progress
one thing l dont like is the angle the die sits at before l load the tube, this will make the tube sit at the angle of the yellow line, fine if you are only bending a 4 foot section of tube but if you were making a roll hoop then the tube might be 12 feet or more, the angle will stop me loading the tube as the end will be hitting the ground eyes, what l need is for the die to be sitting rotated anticlock wise so as the tube will sit like the red line, this way it dosent matter how long the tube is it can stick out across the road :o
so l have been having a look at making some more plates that are rotated slightly, was also thinking of missing some of the pin holes out as l dont see me wanting to bend under 1"
made some up out of plastic to test my ideas first, lot easier to cut that steel plate :)
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l also extended the spare ram, its bent as well, guess l was had there then eyes, its not as bad as the other and l think l will give it a go and see how it works
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made up the spacers that fit between the plates along with the 35mm pivot pins for the ram
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Theres a guy on OFN that did something similar to take the slack out of the different dia. dies. and still get full bends.He said it worked good.
Looks good Baloo.
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Hi Hammer
thanks
finished the steel work just about, stitched a spreader plate on the sides where the bottom ram fixing is,
finished the welding off and made a couple of shelves up, paint next then ;)
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l couldent decide red or blue right up until l opened the tins, red won out :D
means l will have to swap the wheels to red ones though, cant have red and blue on the same machine :laugh:
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Andy
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Baloo that was a no brain-er. Red wins out every time. Blue is well just to boy. 8)
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A cool looking blue might have had a better chance......That sissy looking baby blue didn't rofl
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yer that powder puff blue is a bit gay isent it, never stood a chance really did it,
red is the way forward, going to make some stickers for it at work, something along the lines of "Tube Master 60" and maybe a "dts" logo or 2 :o
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That "sissy looking blue" is the exact color of my powerstroked Sunnen cylinder hone! LOL!!!!
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Fella on OFN spoke very highly of those little encoders,said they are made very well for the price.I have been eyeballing them for my powersteering bender,problem is they are always out of stock?
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You guys come up with some cool stuff. Apparently the other side of the pond has cooler stuff readily available than we do. On the other hand maybe you just do a better job researching this stuff than I. ;D ;D ;D
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Quote
had a better look at the rams today, dident want to buy another but l think l will eyes
both of these are well and truly bent, over 2" bend over 30 "
Baloo
As resourcefully as you yanks are over there I am amazed that you have not pulled that ram apart put it in a press and have it straight as a string line ah hanging from a tree. That rod is not hardened and would doubt that it would work hardden while pressing it back straight. using a couple of v-blocks and a soft pin with a v cut in it.
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That was my first thought also but Baloo seems pretty slick, thought he woulda thought....
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You guys come up with some cool stuff. Apparently the other side of the pond has cooler stuff readily available than we do. On the other hand maybe you just do a better job researching this stuff than I. ;D ;D ;D
funny that, must be a case of the grass always seems greener on the other side of the fence because l always think you boys have all the cool stuff over there and we lag behind
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Quote
had a better look at the rams today, dident want to buy another but l think l will eyes
both of these are well and truly bent, over 2" bend over 30 "
Baloo
As resourcefully as you yanks are over there I am amazed that you have not pulled that ram apart put it in a press and have it straight as a string line ah hanging from a tree. That rod is not hardened and would doubt that it would work harden while pressing it back straight. using a couple of v-blocks and a soft pin with a v cut in it.
yup it has passed through my mind several times, even sorted out a tree stump for the task, was going to use the one of the excavators to gently tease it back in place :o
however these 2 rams were bought for another purpose and l was just going to use one as it was there,
they were very cheap and we know why now lol but it wont make any difference for their intended use,
l have some land where l have built stables barn etc and have one more building to erect, a toy shop ;D
was planning on making it 80'x40' with a solid concrete floor some 10" thick so as l can bolt down my car lifts and machine tools, one shutter door 10' wide for access and thats where the rams are going , sunk into the floor before the concrete is poured 3'6" apart in the doorway was planning on cutting the loops off the ends of rams and welding a 9' length of 1/2" plate 6 or 8" wide across the top of the rams so as when the rams are down it looks just like a metal sill or step thats flush with the floor, quads and buggys will just drive over it but when l lock up at night l can lift the rams up with the plate on the top and it will stop anyone from ramming their way through the shutter with a landrover , just inside the shutter is what l was thinking ?, the 3'6" gap between the rams and door posts should stop quads/buggys being pushed out,
shame you have to go these lengths but you do, already had several break ins, l can set the rams on the angle when l concrete them in so as the pistons come up straight or nearly straight anyway
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Fella on OFN spoke very highly of those little encoders,said they are made very well for the price.I have been eyeballing them for my powersteering bender,problem is they are always out of stock?
was that Shox DR who spoke highly of them, he's over here and l know he uses their stuff
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Quote
had a better look at the rams today, dident want to buy another but l think l will eyes
both of these are well and truly bent, over 2" bend over 30 "
Baloo
As resourcefully as you yanks are over there I am amazed that you have not pulled that ram apart put it in a press and have it straight as a string line ah hanging from a tree. That rod is not hardened and would doubt that it would work hardden while pressing it back straight. using a couple of v-blocks and a soft pin with a v cut in it.
but l am not over there l am over here in the uk :laugh:
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You nailed it!...Shoxdr.-"I have one of the Allendale Rotary Encoders (UK). Yes they are cheap. BUT They are very well built, the display is easy to read. I spoken to the guys on more than one occasion face to face and they will not and do not sell crap. The encoder is made by Wixey
I fitted one to a Protools 105, with no problems. "
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cheers hammer
hows your steering box bender coming along ?
l might have a dabble with something simalar when this one is finished,
although it will probabally be a track motor or slew motor of an excavator
cheers Andy
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Somewhere between stopped and not at all!
I would love to see what you come up with.I am interested in going the other way,as in I want to see how small of a box would work.Well,no smaller than a chevy pick-up box.1"-1.5" max.
Vern Lee,the guy that built the one in my thread said "it bent as fast as i could turn the handle",that works for me.
Congrats on your new bender.
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santa came early :o ,
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I am SOOOoooo jealous at the moment.
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I am SOOOoooo jealous at the moment.
what you got to be jealous about Master, l am sure you have some nice toys/tools tucked away somewhere ;)
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Maybe,but YOU have a nice powered bender. Only bender power I have is one idiot-me(,since I have yet to mount the ram eyes ;D ;D) I gotta take a break before the next build to get a few things done to make my life easier and the builds quicker.
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well l have been dicking around with the bender, thought l was going to be bending today but alas not yet
small technical issue to get over ( balls up :laugh: )
the plates/arms l was playing around with when l started this were 15mm thick, since the lazer cutters can only cut up to 12mm l decided to just double up 2 8mm plates figuring 16mm is better than 15mm, wrong l didn't think far enough ahead eyes
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problem is here
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since the moving arms are thicker they wont slip back inside the fixed arms, l cant moved the fixed arms out as the red frame is all welded up eyes
2 options spring to mind, l get some new arms cut in 6mm plate either just 2 swing arms or maybe a full set and use an 8mm and a 6mm together to give me 14mm and the clearance l need, by having a full set cut in 6mm l would end up with 2 sets of plates consisting of an 8mm and a 6mm, the reasoning being that l have almost all the bits to build a second bender which l could sell on ebay and maybe get all my outlay back and end up with mine for nothing, all depends on weather it will sell or not l suppose ??
second option just take the grinder to the frame and cut on the yellow line as below, spread the frame 4mm and weld a thin section in, certainly cheaper ;)
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found this on ebay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250947351227?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250947351227?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
cheap enough, if l can get one l can use to stop the stroke and make repeat bends
Andy
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Baloo I see three quick and dirty things you may try if you are feeling like it?
The first would be to machine the dies pivot tube down some. But that does require risking a $$ part some. But it would make it skinnier. I cannot tell if there is enough tube to be machined down to clear?
The second may or may not work and that would be to machine a round hold in the innermost moving arms where it hits the dies tube then the dies round tubewould fit inside the arm some. This however may not work well with all your dies.
The last idea I had quick and was to move the outer arm outside the red frame area and then the inner fixed arm would be where the outer fixed is now to get the clearance you need. Just have to make a few spacers to connect them together at a few spots.
I dunno those ideas just hit me quick like.
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Or of course could just move BOTH fixed outer arms to outside the frame. Worse to worse on that would mean a little longer pins needed and maybe some shims to center the dies.
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Or....
You might consider drawing a line across the outside of the fixed arms across the top of the bender. Then remove them from the bender and machine away to this mark line in a mill enough stock on the outer arms that the inners just clear to swing through.
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hi Nutz
you certainly have your thinking head on :laugh:
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machining the centre boss down by a 1/4" was an idea l was thinking of, and there is certainly enough meat on there to loose a bit as the pic shows,
however l am determined to think ahead this time, how wide is a 2" die ? must be wider than the 1.5" that l have now l guess :laugh: so chopping the centre boss down might stop me getting a 2" die at a latter date
putting a plate each side of the red frame has merit would give me 16mm if l did both sides or 8mm if l just did the one ? sounds the easiest ??
would need new pins but thats no great problem is it
Andy
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Or....
You might consider drawing a line across the outside of the fixed arms across the top of the bender. Then remove them from the bender and machine away to this mark line in a mill enough stock on the outer arms that the inners just clear to swing through.
think that sounds the best way to go, good thinking there
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The moving of the arms means you loose no arm strength.
The machining of the arms would loose a little perhaps. Have to weigh the differance between the work that would involve or your original idea of just widening the whole stand part and see what would be easiest.
You got any red paint left? :]
Windening the whole stand deal might be the best yet. I was just floating some idears.
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yer plenty of red paint left :laugh:
just had a look at it, to many things to cut to widen it, 2 shelves, hyd valve mounting plate etc etc,
machining or making to new 6mm swing arms would seem to be the way to go l think
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Could cut just the top part off the arms bolt to and widen it then brace and reweld it but it would not look as clean. Done ri. ght it might actually look pretty good.
If I was looking at it right now I think I would put one each of the outside fixed arms on the outside of the frame and see how that was. If that did not float my boat then on to the next plan
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Could cut just the top part off the arms bolt to and widen it then brace and reweld it but it would not look as clean. Done ri. ght it might actually look pretty good.
If I was looking at it right now I think I would put one each of the outside fixed arms on the outside of the frame and see how that was. If that did not float my boat then on to the next plan
think l will try that tomorrow, although its sunday l have to go down to london for work but might get time when l get back
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hi Nutz
you certainly have your thinking head on :laugh:
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machining the centre boss down by a 1/4" was an idea l was thinking of, and there is certainly enough meat on there to loose a bit as the pic shows,
however l am determined to think ahead this time, how wide is a 2" die ? must be wider than the 1.5" that l have now l guess :laugh: so chopping the centre boss down might stop me getting a 2" die at a latter date
putting a plate each side of the red frame has merit would give me 16mm if l did both sides or 8mm if l just did the one ? sounds the easiest ??
would need new pins but thats no great problem is it
Andy
;) ;) ;)
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ok l fitted one plate each side of the frame/stand and it looks good, l supose l could cut 2 more plates 3mm thick cut the bottom 3" off and sandwich them between the 2 8mm side plates and weld down the back to join them into one piece 3/4" thick, would look like it has a slot machined in the bottom to drop over the red frame cool huh
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so the moving arms now slip back inside the fixed plates revealing the next problem :o
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l have been messing around with the bender while l re design the moving arms, because l have switched rams the pin size is different which means the holes l drilled in the frame are to big so l made up some discs to weld on to correct this
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l how have a 240 degree former and it bends to 180 no problem at all, will see what the max is later
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dident allow enough for spring back this time but l am sure l will get used to it
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Andy
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ee: jj: jj: jj: ee: Very nice indeed. Now to build something with it. ;D
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ee: jj: jj: jj: ee: Very nice indeed. Now to build something with it. ;D
indeed, my brain is working overtime as we speak, l am thinking subaru powered,
engine at the front transmission at the rear :o :o eyes
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All you need now is a protractor on it and you got it!!!
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All you need now is a protractor on it and you got it!!!
l am on the case ;)
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l managed to get myself a end stroke valve of ebay for a whopping $7
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mounted it up on the ram just need to plumb it in now
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well its just about finished
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will get some vid of it working
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well its just about finished
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will get some vid of it working
You do nice work Baloo.
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nealy finished
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think l might go and post a pic on MBN in that thread about tube benders and see what they make of it
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!!!!!!!! GO For IT!!!!!!!!!
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Nice work Baloo
Now all we need is a video of it in operation.
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Nice work Baloo
Now all we need is a video of it in operation.
yes, will do one in the next few days
fast have you got a scoobie powered buggy ?
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yes, will do one in the next few days
fast have you got a scoobie powered buggy ?
Yep. I like my scoobie. A very well built motor. Mine is mid with the mindy out back. They are not real torqueie so you need to keep them in the upper pipes to get the power. Not as much as a bike motor but still some. But they are built for it.
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cool thats what l want, got any pics of the motor install ?, l am interested in how much gearbox hangs out the back end,
whats a mindy a type of gearbox ?, l am thinking of using the scoobie autobox
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Mindi is indeed the gearbox. Named Mendeola
Called Spendeola by many cause they can cost a fortune.
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Yep. I like my scoobie. A very well built motor. Mine is mid with the mindy out back. They are not real torqueie so you need to keep them in the upper pipes to get the power. Not as much as a bike motor but still some. But they are built for it.
what ratio diff and what diameter tyres are you running ?
l had a go in forester and it pulled from 1500 to red line in 4th no problem at all which made me think it was torquey
but perhaps not then
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what ratio diff and what diameter tyres are you running ?
l had a go in forester and it pulled from 1500 to red line in 4th no problem at all which made me think it was torquey
but perhaps not then
Baloo
I am running a 5:14 ring gear 10.5 Dia with a finial drive of 14.9 first 10.7 second 8.6 third and 6.7 fourth. Our sand car's are a full 360 degrees from what you guys are building over the pond. Our cars would not hold up to what you put yours through. A sand car is just that built to run on the smooth sand at hi speeds. To answer your ? there is about a foot and half that hangs out back of the axles.
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well it sure looks a strong box with all those ribs on it, must be nice to run in sand looks very clean, we have to spend 2 hours with a jet wash getting all the mud off when we have finished playing, l bet that sand eats bearing though if it can get in anywhere ?
looks like that engine and box is solid mounted into the frame is that common practice?
Andy
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Baloo
Some people use Nylon or Urethane bushings but most just solid mount there engine's and trans to the frame. Get a little more vibration but quick and clean. As for the sand getting into bearings. Not so much. With today seals and with Outerwears covers for aircleaners and such it really not to much of a problem.
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l am still impressed with how clean that gearbox in the pic above is, sunny and sandy sound mighty appealing to how the weather here is now :'(
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h'mm solid mounted engine and box, could use that as part of the frame and do away with a few tubes ???
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LOL Yes Baloo the sand is def a clean mans dream. If you have an open trailer nearly all the sand that is in a machine will blow out on the trip home!
What does not can be cleaned with an airhose in minutes usually.
Grease and oil leaks make the stuff stick but are tell tales of maintenance needed HERE! lol
Some guys at the dunes will spend ten thousand (and some much more) JUST on pretty!
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h'mm not much chance of the mud blowing off on the way home the jet wash struggles to move it,
how long can one stay in the usa on holiday at glamis before l get booted back out ?
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h'mm not much chance of the mud blowing off on the way home the jet wash struggles to move it,
how long can one stay in the usa on holiday at glamis before l get booted back out ?
If I look at our current immigration problem I would say 50 plus years? Plus benefits of course.....
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h'mm not much chance of the mud blowing off on the way home the jet wash struggles to move it,
how long can one stay in the usa on holiday at glamis before l get booted back out ?
2 weeks,I think, in the same spot. Move somewhere else and do it again.......................................
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wonder if they would give me a job as a sand ranger with a sand rail as a company car lol
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wonder if they would give me a job as a sand ranger with a sand rail as a company car lol
No. You speak in complete sentences and are not an asshole.
That rules out most government jobs, including "ranger."
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No. You speak in complete sentences and are not an asshole.
That rules out most government jobs, including "ranger."
:laugh: :laugh:, l take it rangers are not popular then
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Wait Yummi, the fact thats hes from another country and knows nothing about the dunes, that is a qualification. rofl rofl
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lol you guys are funny :laugh: