Casting Aluminium (not aluminum, you yanks just cant spell gooder!!!!)

[artie on edge]

I think the other thing is that I have yet to be "jumped all over" Rick on this site, certainly would be surprised if it happened. So far all I have seen is constructive critism and straight out help (like Boost here...thank you man)

I think like the idea Boost, six bolt holes and slightly slotted mount holes in the plate? Am I right there? How do you turn them to make the adjustment and how do you make certain that they are not twisting the chain by not being turned equally?

4 Jaw isnt a problem.. you know what is? My ego... i spent so much time on these carriers (cause im an idiot and used solid steel billet that I had in stock rather than sourcing the correct material) that I want to use them. They do look very pretty though and would make great paperweights for my desk... man have made some great paperweights over the years...

Im still leaning towards the input shaft adjustment though

All you engineers out there .. any input?

[Boostinjdm]

How do you turn them to make the adjustment and how do you make certain that they are not twisting the chain by not being turned equally?

that's where the timing marks come in.  You would have to have marks on the carriers and on the side covers for reference.  or you could have more bolt holes and shorter grooves and wing it.
there is one more option.  set up may take a little more time but it might be worth it.  I feel another drawing coming on. brb.

[artie on edge]

Im going to try and describe my thoughts on the upper shaft adjuster. I dont have access to cad or solidworks et al... im a paper sheet and slide rule guy (hint at my age? mmm).

(actually I use a heap of CAD, carboard aided design, works great!)

Of the four bearing carrier mount holes, three in the side plates of the chain case will be slotted and one will not, the unslotted pivot hole will be 90 degrees to the case vertical line or chain centre line.

I had thought that an external plate with matching bolt holes to the carrier mounts will be used, this external adjuster plate four holes will not be slotted.

This plate will have a mirror on the other side of the case and an arm will protrude beyond the side of the case (opposite to the pivot hole) where it will be welded via a spacer to its mirror image arm. Now that are one piece, move one you move the other equally.

This will have an adjust bolt mounted to the case body and the middle of the spacer between the lever arms, loosen the four (each side), carrier bolts, move the adjuster screw, tighten the carrier bolts.

I think this is as simple as I can make it while maintaining the chain alignment.

Again, your thoughts guys?

[artie on edge]

The external plates will be steel as will the adjsuter screw and this will ensure that the loads imposed by the two chains on the input shaft cant override or slip the adjuster.

By adjusting vertically you can reduce the imapct of the primary chain adjustment but I think it would be something I would always check redo in any case.

Also, after being set once the chain has stretched I dont expect to have to do this between every race.

[Boostinjdm]

got a side cover model for ya give me a sec.

[Boostinjdm]

here is a cover using the bolt holes for timing.  each hole it 5 degrees farther than the last.  giving a 20 degree sweep before having to jump the the next set of holes.  This would be used with an eccentric carrier.

[artie on edge]

wow, please give me a few minutes to absorb...

[artie on edge]

how am I going to "turn" the bearing carrier?

It does have an inspection/oil check plate on the side plate, dont see ho that would help though.

[artie on edge]

Does my verbal description of the upper bearing carrier make sense to you?

[Boostinjdm]

with the carriers on the inside it would be tough, but if they had a pilot lip that fit into the side cover you could take out the six bolts on each side, stick a punch in the hole for leverage and rotate, then replace all bolts.  It's a good thing you wouldn't have to do it often.  Btw, I understand your Idea for a tensioner.  I have done some like that at work and I got to tell ya there is going to be a HUGE amount of stress applied to the bolts that way.  I was doing that with 2 and 3hp electric motors and having trouble getting things to stay put.  Have you thought about a spring loaded plastic tensioner like bikes use on thier cam chains?  Both shafts could stay put then.  wouldn't be perfect, you might have issues when decelerating.  Just another idea to mull over.

[Boostinjdm]

You might not know, but I bet someone here can tell us how sled chain cases are tensioned. 

[artie on edge]

re: spring tensioner, Yes had thought it over to a degree but must admit to having dismissed it  due to the decel issue and the fact that it would be hidden away where it couldnt be readily visually checked.

[artie on edge]

Mate, lots to think about, you have been tremendous and I thank you for your input. Great site this, full of great, skilled people.

Im off to bed... cheers

Rob

[Boostinjdm]

how bout a spring loaded roller that could be locked down?  the spring sets the tension, then you tighten it up where its at.  I know my honda civic has one on the timing belt if you want to look it up for reference.

[fabr]

Hey Artie,
I'm surprised that no one has jumped all over you yet, for not piloting the cvs into the flanges.
I don't do it either, but I was criticized for not on MBN. What's the consensus here?

The lipe centers the cv in the flange. Personally I feel it is needed.But to each his own.