turbo 1300 to turbo 2300 conversion

[fastcorvairs]

I think you have a great plan DS.  It also depends on how you drive it.  I don't wrap mine too tight, I think it saves the engine for years of trouble free driving.  Going up choke cherry, mine will run about 5200 rpm.  Then I used to watch fast in the green car, bouncing the engine off the rev limiter.     Give her hell     But we all know how he drives   

 

[Carlriddle]

The rev limit is safe, and if they didn't want you to rev that high, they woulda set it lower!!! 

[dsrace]

The rev limit is safe, and if they didn't want you to rev that high, they woulda set it lower!!! 

exactly and i have always said the factory rev limiter is nothing more than a shift light with out the light part 

fast ......so did you ever look to see why the factory turbo heads out performed the n/a head on your other motor was it a diff cam in that spare engine??

also i purchased a micro squirt pimp pcm last night. there is a guy from stinger performance that is making a conversion assy that uses the dizzy but replaces the rotor and cap with a 24-2 trigger for cam and crank signal so that it is easier to go seq fuel and spark now enemy will have to shed some light on just how and why as he is the one thats going to be doing the tunning       i have a 36-1 conversion for this at the crank but i would pre fer this set up so if that dist gear breaks or strip which btw is driven by the oil pump then it shuts the engine down rather than continuing to run with no oil psi.

[fabr]

tHE REV LIMIT IS FINE FOR THE STOCK CONFIG. aDD A BUNCH MORE POWER AND IT MAY WELL NOT BE WITHOUT INTERNAL MODS.  Damn caps lock...............

[fabr]

FWIW,and yes,this is a true story but ,I have never used a rev limiter or tach on my drag engines. I used an electric solenoid shifter triggered my an MSD rpm module. Welllllll,one time I had just put in a new engine and somewhere along the line the chip was dislodged. I made a full pass in first gear. Only lost a couple tenths et. The amazing part was that the data logger showed that I went thru the trap at over 12,000 rpm. 428 inch SBC. Had I not had all the very best parts available in it I would have scattered a lot of pieces everywhere. Amazing what can be done with good parts and  $$$$$$. Of course ,that engine made best et's shifting at 6700. It's identical brother is in the new buggy with the limiter set @6500. I have a bit of safety margin.

[dsrace]

oh can believe that and yes stock parts will take a little more than performance parts but not double the rpm lol
since i have chose the hot pinto cam rated with a power band from 2k to 6k and most that run it say good to 6500 i believe my soft cut will be 6500 and hard cut 6800 or so.  plenty of documentation that the stock crank good to 7500 rpm and plenty out there that these stock blocks cranks bottom ends and iron heads are good to 600 rwhp. now the guys putting down 1000 hp out them well i bet the only ford left in them is the oil pan and throttle body but would have my doubts on that even     how long do those last....prob not long.

fabr that was a damn good way to check your internals on that engine lol and now you know how fast you can spin the new one if the components are as strong as the ones in the other motor. things change from batch to batch so never know for sure.

[dsrace]

i am building with cp forged pistons.....best out there for this engine. je, weisco, mahle, kp etc etc all make them and are about $250 cheaper but every report i can find on 4 diff sites all state don't use anything other than cp if your going big boost because they will not last! so after you read that 30 to 40 times from diff posters that had an engine go down form piston failure you start to believe  i will be using crower rods https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-sp93231b-4/overview/make/ford  that are rated at 8200 rpm and 500 hp. so over kill is a good thing as fabr just stated with his story!!  or atleast that's how i took it lol   

[fabr]

Its not just the internals. For years I used all the good internals yet still had durability issues until I finally bought a rodeck alum block and a GM CNC NASCAR block. Instantly my maintenance costs went away. Instead of needing a tear down every 30 runs or so I now was able to go all year without any worries of bearing issues. Long story made short, I'd advise building to no higher power level than what is accepted as safe in an endurance application.

[fabr]

Nothing wrong with Crower but I prefer Oliver rods. On another note, what are you doing with the valve train? Remember that the valve train is the most vulnerable part of any build and has been the downfall of the majority of all builds.

[dsrace]

Nothing wrong with Crower but I prefer Oliver rods. On another note, what are you doing with the valve train? Remember that the valve train is the most vulnerable part of any build and has been the downfall of the majority of all builds.

well as luck would have it there is an engine machine shop 1 mile from my house and he is in the top 5 in lincoln and surrounding area. i am dropping it off with him lol he said he will be doing 5 angle grind and yes i told him boosted on e85, using ss and ferra valves, the better valve guides and seals. i will purchase the cam and rocker arms together but  stock ranger roller rockers have proven to hold up very well to higher performance and rpm builds and i have stock rollers. now the only thing i am still on the fence about is the hydrolic lifters.......... 1 guru told me after 6500 rpm its russian rulet on hydrolic lifters. i did not ask if that was stock or any. they do sell solid lifters that need periodic attention and that's not an issue at all but sort of already have the hydrolics???

and of course beehive springs instead of duals, hardened valve seats,better caps and keepers. sohc of course



never heard of oliver so now i will have to check.

[dsrace]

they don't list the rod on there site so i emailed them asking so we'll see what they offer.

[fabr]

I was just mentioning Oliver rods. I have no idea if they offer them for the 2.3. Whatever rods you use though,do NOT just torque them. Use the stretch specification no matter the torque need to attain proper stretch.

 As for the valve train,I will never again use stud mounted rockers,period ,unless there is no shaft system available. It's been a very long time since I worked on a 2.3 and to be very honest I can't remember if it uses stud mounted rockers or not but if it does and you want to not have any worries then a shaft system is the only way to fly.Studs do nothing but deflect and create instability to the valve train that will destroy an engine faster than any other cause,IMO.  I think your engine is an overhead cam though with the rockers directly operated off the cam so none of that is relevent.

Now,hydraulic lifters-fine till they aren't. :lol:  On a street engine,mild performance,I'd use them. On your engine..............probably not unless you stick with stud mounted rockers if that is what you have. Having said that,I'd stick with whatever the current TRUE gurus recommend.

[fabr]

Oh,beehive springs would NOT be my choice unless (and again,I don't remember for sure)the water jackets are too close to the spring seat to allow them to be opened up for larger OD springs. Just always keep in mind that correct valve train geometry is your friend and being "close enough" ,in this case, is NOT close enough.

[dsrace]

no shaft and no stud in this case sort of a pinned fit....
   

this will show you .....if you look you'll see the spring basket now there are a couple cam options out there as the one i chose that are very min additional lift over stock so no need to alter spring basket however there has been discussion on double over the beehive and specifically the what if you break a spring with a double you have a catch spring. i would have to do a search to explain that one properly as to the advantages of the beehive in this motor. and yes seats are right over he water major artery lol

[fabr]

In this case it is extremely important that the valve job is done with consideration of installed valve stem height . If it is not right and / or the cam base circle is different than stock your stem to rocker contact geometry will be crap. IMO, never assume the machine shop did it right. Use a bit of Prussian blue on the valve tip to verify the contact area is centered over the stem.